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Electrolysis for removing tank rust!

  • Thread starter Thread starter ty998
  • Start date Start date
T

ty998

Guest
Hey All,

I am currently trying out electrolysis for removing the rust from the inside of the fuel tank on a GS that I am rebuilding. So far it is working great.

Here is a photo of my setup:
electrolysis.jpg
View attachment 15972

There are many great sources for technical direction such as:
http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Removing_rust_from_a_gas_tank

Let me know if anyone has any questions on this. Also I will update later with my results.
 
I have used electrolysis a few times in the past.

Be ready to coat it or fill with fuel as soon as you are finished. It will re rust in minutes.

It works. Phosphoric acid or Muratic acid will do the job as well. Sounds like nasty stuff which it is however it is sold as wood deck wash.

Hope it works great for you!
 
Both work, but electrolysis won't destroy your paint if it's still nice.
 
Andersonspartsplus said:
I have used electrolysis a few times in the past.

Be ready to coat it or fill with fuel as soon as you are finished. It will re rust in minutes.

It works. Phosphoric acid or Muratic acid will do the job as well. Sounds like nasty stuff which it is however it is sold as wood deck wash.

Hope it works great for you!
Click to expand...

Phosphoric acid works well. Often labeled as "metal prep". Leaves a coating on the metal which provides some protection.

Muratic acid is hydrocloric acid. Pool acid to adjust PH. Nasty stuff. Very harsh. Use with great caution. I don't recommend this for a tank - too harsh, but some people do use it.

Oxalic acid is a good choice. Typically used in wood deck wash. Safe for chrome and paint.

Acetic acid (vinegar) works decently. I've read that Costco sells it in bulk for cheap.

Evaporust - great stuff. Safe for paint, chrome, hands, etc. Highly recommended.
 
Andersonspartsplus said:
Be ready to coat it or fill with fuel as soon as you are finished. It will re rust in minutes.
Click to expand...

Never seen this happen with electrolysis.
That's an acid thing.

It may rust if some water is left in the tank, dry it with heat when the electrolysis is done.
I put in some torn up paper towels and turn them upside down in the sun or over a heater to dry out. If you are worried about a little rust forming as the water is removed, add some old anti-freeze to the last batch of water, the corrosion preventatives should help.
Any steel tank will of course rust if it sits empty for any time, especially in a humid climate.

It's it's going to sit empty for some time, fill it with kerosene or something.
 
Rust will begin forming as soon as electrolysis is stopped.All you need to do is a rinse with phosphoric solution that puts a corrosion inhibiting layer of iron phosphate on the metal surface.It also eats off the black oxide layer formed during electrolysis
 
strip the rust then pour oil in there coat the whole tank,or use some kind of " teflon coating", still wondering if its on the market, as all tanks need to be coated from factory, the old tanks use to rust like crazy

the light oil will be gone with the next use of the tank,might smoke a very little bit,but its better than rusting. i really dont like the "crappy" tank coatings out today the 2 part grey crap", its not worth using
 
platinum2 said:
strip the rust then pour oil in there coat the whole tank,or use some kind of " teflon coating", still wondering if its on the market, as all tanks need to be coated from factory, the old tanks use to rust like crazy

the light oil will be gone with the next use of the tank,might smoke a very little bit,but its better than rusting. i really dont like the "crappy" tank coatings out today the 2 part grey crap", its not worth using
Click to expand...

"Teflon coating"? Please educate me on what this material is.

As for "2 part gray crap" coatings, I'm not sure what this is either so please share some more.

Most liner failures relate to operator error while applying them. I partly blame the coating manufacturers for this since most claim (falsely) that you don't need to derust before coating, and that's just plain wrong in my experience.

Tips for a good result include...

- Use a reputable coating material like Por-15

- Properly derust the tank using something like phosphoric acid and aquarium rocks to scrub the metal surface clean

- Coat the tank carefully being sure to get a good thick layer, but not allowing the material to puddle in the bottom of the tank.

Getting a proper coating takes some finesse. If anyone needs help PM me and I'll walk them though the procedure.
 
Nessism said:
Tips for a good result include...

- Use a reputable coating material like Por-15

- Properly derust the tank using something like phosphoric acid and aquarium rocks to scrub the metal surface clean

- Coat the tank carefully being sure to get a good thick layer, but not allowing the material to puddle in the bottom of the tank.

Getting a proper coating takes some finesse. If anyone needs help PM me and I'll walk them though the procedure.
Click to expand...
I am helping a friend with a gs 1100 and it has some kind of gray sealer that is peeling away from the tank and is giving us fits thinking of trying to get another tank....This is enough to make me scared to use any sealer?
 
i used vinger and salt soak few days , rinsh out,with bakeing soda, , coat with KBS tank coat , done ,
 
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