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Electrosport R/R

glib

glib

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
FYI for the R/R shoppers:

Electrosport has what seems to be a good technical page about the GS charging system on their website: http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/known-issues/common-tech-issue?model=2443 and claim their R/R is a good match to their stators so I sent a message asking what type of R/R they make, shunt, series or mosfet. (If it wasn't for this forum I wouldn't know even to ask and I still don't know what the words mean). I got an answer back pretty quickly that it is a shunt type R/R. I get the idea from reading posts here that shunt type might have good application but not for our bikes. I already decided to get a Compu-fire but did I get that correct?
 
Shunt r/r were popular because it was the abolutely cheapest approach when the main alternative was a feild controlled alternator. The biggest joke was the MOSFET shunt r/r that came out a a fed years back. The reality is that these MOSFET shunt devices could have no cost advantage over a series r/r .

So to your question, today there is no application where the shunt r/r is prefer rabble excfpt one where it is not possible to burn a stator. Those are very few.

if you see my signature you can see a summary in GS stator.
 
I went through your keepandshare docs. I comprehend but don't understand--and that's okay. I'm just glad you have brought the conclusions back to earth with recommendations for a dependable setup!

Sad that electrosport makes a quality stator but still doesn't get it regarding the R/R.
 
glib said:
FYI for the R/R shoppers:

Electrosport has what seems to be a good technical page about the GS charging system on their website: http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/known-issues/common-tech-issue?model=2443 and claim their R/R is a good match to their stators so I sent a message asking what type of R/R they make, shunt, series or mosfet. (If it wasn't for this forum I wouldn't know even to ask and I still don't know what the words mean). I got an answer back pretty quickly that it is a shunt type R/R. I get the idea from reading posts here that shunt type might have good application but not for our bikes. I already decided to get a Compu-fire but did I get that correct?
Click to expand...

Going on 8 years on my Compufire and not a days problem with it. If it had been a shunt RR I would have burned out 3 stators by now.
 
Finally installed NEW Electrosport ESG 024 stator and Compu-fire R/R! Quick test showed that my battery is a bit weak dropping .7 volts with the key on--which I already knew but charging is stable with 2500 and 5000 readings between 14.05 and 14.20 with 5000 being about .10 to .15 volts lower. So still losing some (I haven't soldered the connections yet) but finally in the dependable zone.
 
Looks like you are much closer. Clean out the fuse box and coat it with something. I have a link of contact treatments.

If you re run the Phase A tests and measure the drops and they are good you can relax and not worry about it.
 
posplayr said:
Looks like you are much closer. Clean out the fuse box and coat it with something. I have a link of contact treatments.

If you re run the Phase A tests and measure the drops and they are good you can relax and not worry about it.
Click to expand...

I'll redo phase A tests in the morning but I did solder the both positive and negative connections to the new R/R (not the stator connections yet) and I'm at 14.29 at 2500 and 14.26 at 5000. Pretty close now, yes?
 
glib said:
I'll redo phase A tests in the morning but I did solder the both positive and negative connections to the new R/R (not the stator connections yet) and I'm at 14.29 at 2500 and 14.26 at 5000. Pretty close now, yes?
Click to expand...

Yes that is good but the thing to finish it off is making sure those connector drops at 5K are low. With a SPG you can typically get well below 0.1V and without too much trouble people get the positive side to within about 0.1V. This is gilding the lily to a certain extent, but higher voltages is indicative of corrosion that won't get any better and depending on your local humidity will just get worse.
 
posplayr said:
Yes that is good but the thing to finish it off is making sure those connector drops at 5K are low. With a SPG you can typically get well below 0.1V and without too much trouble people get the positive side to within about 0.1V. This is gilding the lily to a certain extent, but higher voltages is indicative of corrosion that won't get any better and depending on your local humidity will just get worse.
Click to expand...

I did the SPG before the stator completely failed. Negative side was good but positive side needed some help. I'll check tomorrow to see if this change affected those numbers.
 
posplayr said:
Yes that is good but the thing to finish it off is making sure those connector drops at 5K are low. With a SPG you can typically get well below 0.1V and without too much trouble people get the positive side to within about 0.1V. This is gilding the lily to a certain extent, but higher voltages is indicative of corrosion that won't get any better and depending on your local humidity will just get worse.
Click to expand...


Phase A test positive side .13-.14, negative side 0.0.

Pic of the Compu-fire installed. Tight fit but it works.
 
Last edited:
Probably good enough unless you want to dig into the harness to find the "T". That is assuming you did everything else.

i assume your peak charging voltage came up a bit.
 
posplayr said:
Probably good enough unless you want to dig into the harness to find the "T". That is assuming you did everything else.

i assume your peak charging voltage came up a bit.
Click to expand...

14.36 at 2500 and 14.32 at 5,000
 
glib said:
14.36 at 2500 and 14.32 at 5,000
Click to expand...
That is good. Congratulations on being persistent. You should not have to worry about charging for some time. A volt meter is still nice to have on the handlebar. The digital led are easier to read.
 
posplayr said:
That is good. Congratulations on being persistent. You should not have to worry about charging for some time. A volt meter is still nice to have on the handlebar. The digital led are easier to read.
Click to expand...

Posplayr, I don't know that you get adequate credit for what you bring to the table here but I want to say thank you! I am not going to pretend that I understand electricity but I do understand, at the earthling level, a lot more than I did when I started reading your links. Thank you.
 
glib said:
Posplayr, I don't know that you get adequate credit for what you bring to the table here but I want to say thank you! I am not going to pretend that I understand electricity but I do understand, at the earthling level, a lot more than I did when I started reading your links. Thank you.
Click to expand...
Thanks. .............
 
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