engine hadn't been run in 10 years- oil pressure?

[Sandman900ss]

1981 GS650, 5,600 miles, ready to start after 10 years sitting. Just went through the carbs, new plugs, oil, and on. Question is: should I pre-oil the cams, and/or is there a way to build oil pressure on it first, before switching on power? Or should I just crank away as is? I really hate the 1 minute clattery sound I know is coming on cold start up until oil gets flowing. I am worried about snapping off 36 year old untouched cam cover bolts, though.

 

[bobgroger]

If you haven't adjusted the valves it's not ready to start anyway, so do that, dump some oil in the top end, pull the plugs out, a squirt of oil in each hole, and spin it over with the starter for a while. THEN you are ready to start....

 

[Sandman900ss]

Mille grazie. That makes sense, and is sound advice I'm going to take. Would it be a good idea to heat up cam cover fasteners (propane or map gas) before loosening them? Would like to hear any other possible suggestions.

 

[jellywrestler]

theres an oil gallery behind the barrells on the suzuki fours, it come pretty well straight out of the oil pump and at the end there's a 17mm from memory chrome nut. i remove this tip the bike as far as i can on it's side and fill it with oil, this will take maybe over a cup full and prime the oil pump if it's empty, i also pop the rocker cover off and do the top end but filling that gallery up saves the motor a lot of time getting that oil that has drained away through the engine. if it's a dry motor i take the plugs out and put in on a rolling road or ride down a decent hill too so it pumps the oil everywhere without the added pressures of combustion doing it's bit.

 

[tom203]

If you haven't adjusted the valves it's not ready to start anyway, so do that, dump some oil in the top end, pull the plugs out, a squirt of oil in each hole, and spin it over with the starter for a while. THEN you are ready to start....

Absolutely check valves! Note that there are two different cam cover designs, so make sure you get right gasket.

 

[Brendan W]

After the bores get a squirt I suggest that the first two or three rotations are done by hand listening out for noises and feeling for tightness. Might also consider thinking about whether or not the tensioner is free.
If you do it with the plugs out it's a lot easier, you may get to hear sticky valves and you may also get oil up to the top.

 

[Sandman900ss]

theres an oil gallery behind the barrells on the suzuki fours, it come pretty well straight out of the oil pump and at the end there's a 17mm from memory chrome nut...

Appreciate the tip. I believe you mean this one- I always wondered why it was there! Anyone else used this trick?

 

[allojohn]

Some people replace that bolt with an oil pressure gauge - v handy.

 

[jellywrestler]

Appreciate the tip. I believe you mean this one- I always wondered why it was there! Anyone else used this trick?

yeah thats the one

 

[chuck hahn]

The dash light will tell you if youve lost sufficient oil pressure for any reason. I can see maybe an oil temp gauge there though. Lot of people think thier bikes are "running hot" and dont understand that each bike is gonna be a little different...and I dont fully put all my trust inn the fuel and temp gauge accuracy either. With a temp gauge your gonna see 100% for sure how the engines doing based on the oils temp.

 

[Nessism]

Check/adjust the valves being careful to assure there is enough clearance. The valve clearance decreases with usage which is why it's so critical to perform.

Since you have a virgin bike there I'll warn you that removing the old valve cover gasket is going to be a big job. The gasket material petrifies with age and it's not easy to clean off. Needless to say you will need a new gasket, and OEM is the best.

As mentioned, if you pour some oil over the cams and valve buckets that will take care of the top end. Beyond that I wouldn't do anything else with the oiling system. Be sure to use good oil such as Shell Rotella 15W-40. The GS oiling system is reliable so I wouldn't give it another thought.

 

[chuck hahn]

I just pull the plugs and spin it a few seconds with the starter to get oil to the top end. Theres usually enough trapped oil in the journals and on the cams even after setting long periods of time. They arent gonna get bone dry like a cow skull setting in the dessert heat. Oil residue hangs on there ..maybe not as thick as syrup running down a stack of pancakes..but they arent bone dry either.

 

[Sandman900ss]

Thanks, guys. Actually got the cam cover off no problem, gasket wasn't too bad to remove. Glad I did this- there was virtually no oil at all left on the cams or shims, really dry. Cams look almost new (5,600 mile bike), but already found tight exhaust valves.

 

[1980GS1000E]

Throw some antisieze or wd40 on the valve cover gasket prior to installing. Makes for a super clean and easy removal. You can even reuse it.

 

[Nessism]

Thanks, guys. Actually got the cam cover off no problem, gasket wasn't too bad to remove. Glad I did this- there was virtually no oil at all left on the cams or shims, really dry. Cams look almost new (5,600 mile bike), but already found tight exhaust valves.

That's great news about the valve cover gasket. I swear, removing the gasket on a never before cracked open valve cover can turn into a several hour chore chipping away at the gasket. You might want to go pickup a couple of lotto tickets since this is your day!

 

[jellywrestler]

Throw some antisieze or wd40 on the valve cover gasket prior to installing. Makes for a super clean and easy removal. You can even reuse it.

engine side only, then the gasket comes off with the cove and if it needs stripping off it's remote from the bike.

 

[Sandman900ss]

Throw some antisieze or wd40 on the valve cover gasket prior to installing. Makes for a super clean and easy removal. You can even reuse it.

Great suggestion, one that I just followed. Antiseize on the engine side only. Somebody, sometime, is going to have to go back inside that cam cover- probably me.

 

[Sandman900ss]

Update: after using many of the suggestions and advice offered, the GS650 was fired up for the first time in many years. Success- engine is totally quiet, no clatter and sounds like a classic GS should. Carbs aren't leaking, valve adjustment was worth doing as long as the cover was off to oil the dry cam lobes. Gearbox and clutch good, no issues. Now that it's a confirmed runner, I'll put more time and money into this 650 and take it up another level.

Thank you all for contributing to this thread. Hopefully somebody else doing a forum search and bringing a vintage GS back to life will find this useful.