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Finally went ahead and did this

  • Thread starter Thread starter Adler
  • Start date Start date
I need some direction,

The bike will now idle with the capacitor, no problem. I can rev beautifully and everything appears lovely. If I turn on the headlight, however, instant death. So is the bike not generating enough electricity to power the lights? Do I need a bigger capacitor? the one I am using is 14,000uF and I thought that would be enough.

When I rev the neutral light does change brightness quite a lot. Maybe that is a clue.
 
Stupid question time... have you verified your charging circuit is good since putting the capacitor in?

Have you verified the capacitor is holding some charge?

It sounds to me like there's just enough current being generated to run the coils, but added load exceeds the ability of the system.

That really says R/R to me...
 
pete said:
Stupid question time... have you verified your charging circuit is good since putting the capacitor in?

Have you verified the capacitor is holding some charge?

It sounds to me like there's just enough current being generated to run the coils, but added load exceeds the ability of the system.

That really says R/R to me...
Click to expand...

Honestly I have only done preliminary tests on the charging system because I never seemed to have a problem with it. You are, of course, right. I will do some more in depth tests.

The capacitor seems to be holding SOME charge. I see that when I turn the key to off when it is running when I turn it back on the lights flash. I'm not sure if it is holding enough though.

I did some more testing after I posted and I found that if I rev the bike and then turn on the lights it will settle back to idle and stay running. I assume the system spikes when the lights are turned on initially.

Well, seems R/R testing is next on the agenda.
 
Definitely check it out!

I always thought my charging system ok, so I'm not sure now if it's the almost 10 years sitting or if it was faulty all along, but I get the 12.5v decreasing to 12.3v when I rev... definitely new R/R time for me.
 
I think it is great that you want to burn up your electronics

I think it is great that you want to burn up your electronics

a battery elimination capacitor is great for a dirt bike where excessive vibration kills the battery. It takes care to eliminate acid all over the place and/or lightens the bike. You must know this is usually used on bikes with a AC driven ignition system where the battery only runs the starter motor and lighting systems.(or a kick start with a small dc ign and a AC lighting system)

I'd suggest you get a AC powered head light and wire it directly to the AC generating stator.

Then you may run 2 legs to your AC light and 1 leg with a simple single diode for rectification to run the DC ignition. you might not like weak orange spark at idle -- (fouled plugs from idling at a 5 minute stoplight)

but raise the idle to 2K you'll be fine

I believe proper Grounding goes to STEEL first


Aluminum is conductive but not like ferrous metals. Grounding to both frame and engine is the best method -IMHO -

but what do I know about modified bikes...;)
 
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