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Forceps For Valve Adjustment

  • Thread starter Thread starter Chuckster
  • Start date Start date
C

Chuckster

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I'm looking ahead past my current carb work to adjusting my valves. Can someone tell me what kind of forceps to get to assist in shim removal and where to get them? On Ebay, all I see is dental forceps? It's okay to laugh, really. :-D
 
That will work, but so will a pair of small needle nose. If you use a flat head to pop the shim up out of the bucket, then you can grab it with the needle nose. You'll likely have to do that anyway with the flathead, to break the shim loose, as the oil will kinda keep it stuck to the bucket.
 
Chuckster,
I just did this and I used the $15 Suzuki shim tool from z1enterprises or ebay and tweezers to pull the shims. There was only one I couldn't pull out with this method.

Cory
 
Yeah that shim tool can be a down right bitch to use sometimes. Ya got to get it in there JUUUST right, or its actually in the way, or doesnt depress the tappet far enough to actually get the shim out. Seems to be most a PITA on the inside cylinder's exhaust side.
 
Mr. Chuckster,

I picked up a pair of large hemostat-like locking tweezers at a military surplus store. They were just in a jar by the check out stand. For a couple of bucks they are a great tool for extracting valve shims. They look something like this:

angledtweezers.JPG


It think they are also called "craft" tweezers. You will still need the shim tool to push down the bucket in order to get the shim out.

<<Click

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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I agree that you will need the flat head to break the slight suction of oil and pop the shim up and then use tweezers (longer style) or needle nose pliers to grab and extract.
I used the zip tie method (download pdf for details: http://www.mediafire.com/?3ptmrhwxzvm) to hold valves open instead of that $15 dollar tool and it worked great.
Caution: don't turn the engine with the shim out of the bucket when moving shims around! Take all your measurements first before removing any. If you can get one extra shim, so you can play musical shims and then you might reduce the number of new shims you'll need to order. I was able to pick one up (doesn't really matter what size as it is only a temp placeholder) at the local dealer for free to start and then ordered 4 new ones in the size I needed.
 
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i just used the zip tie method, and it works great, for 0 dollars. any old tweezers will work, i used the ones my wife uses for.....well.....tweezing things. i didnt tell her, though. she already freaked about me cleaning carb parts in her pyrex pan..... make sure the flathead screwdriver you use isnt one of those magnetic jobs.

you could use chopsticks, which maybe would be culturally appropriate.....
 
Thanks guys! I'll see if I can find some long tweezers. My wife might not take to kindly to using hers. :-D
 
Chuckster said:
Thanks guys! I'll see if I can find some long tweezers. My wife might not take to kindly to using hers. :-D
Click to expand...
You have Harbor Freight stores? Probably a good source of cheap long tweezers. I also used one of the larger "micro" type slotted screwdrivers for prying those shims.

I recommend buying or borrowing (I borrowed) a digital caliper. Can't rely on the thicknesses printed on the shims.

If you're a fellow nerd, I'd also email or PM Steve for his valve adjustment spreadsheet, if that hasn't already been suggested in one of your threads. I'm somewhat of an uber-nerd, so I had the laptop set up in the garage while I was working, but Steve suggested a simpler (and safer for the lappie) method of printing the spreadsheet and then going back to the computer to enter your measurements and get the calculated shim requirements back.

In summary - Tweezers, wee screwdriver, Suzuki valve tool, feeler gauges, digital calipers, and the spreadsheet. And coffee. I needed coffee.
 
I found a set of electronic technicians miniature pliers, needlenose, side cutters & bent needlenose, at our local hardware store and the "bent needlenose" pliers works like a charm. Turn the cup, lift the shim with a 3mm wide flat screwdriver, grab the edge with the bent needlenose pliers and pull it out. Block the cup at the back with the screwdriver to stop the shims sliding over it when replacing them and pop them in with the same pliers.
 
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92345

I bought these, and modified the biggest ones by bending the end at an angle and sharpening the tip to make it easier to get it under the shim. The ad says stainless. I say copper.

The process seems impossible at first, but gets less strange as you get more experience.

I used micrometers to measure my shims, and found some that were slightly thinner than the markings. I wrote my own spreadsheet, which compensates for using metric shims and inches from the micrometer and gauges.
 
themess said:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92345

I bought these, and modified the biggest ones by bending the end at an angle and sharpening the tip to make it easier to get it under the shim. The ad says stainless. I say copper.

The process seems impossible at first, but gets less strange as you get more experience.

I used micrometers to measure my shims, and found some that were slightly thinner than the markings. I wrote my own spreadsheet, which compensates for using metric shims and inches from the micrometer and gauges.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip! I'm sure I will have some more questions later and I really appreciate the help. :-D
 
shim tool is lame

shim tool is lame

I bought the shim tool from z1 and think its an absolute waste.... zip ties are the way to go without question. As others have said, use wifes tweezers 8-[ had to fight with a couple of them but for the most part it is simple.
 
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