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Front Wheel Bearing

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
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Guest

Guest
I'm having the same issue as the "guest" poster in this post ( http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=788698#post788698 ) did with his front wheel bearing.

Unfortunately, I think I hammered the last bearing in too hard, squishing the spacer into the bearings. Now they barely turn, and when you do get them to turn they feel notchy just like the old ones. I tried tapping the new bearings out a little but they won't budge, they're in there really tight.


The bearing seated fine and went in with very little force as I had them in the freezer and lightly heated the hub. However they are too tight to turn with my finger now, is this normal? I cannot put it back on the bike and see how it spins yet as my front forks are apart and I'm awaiting parts for them.



Well, too bad about the deceased bearings, but I wonder how they came to be damaged. The bore in the wheel limits travel, right? I mean, that's pretty much the whole idea. It shouldn't be possible for you to drive either bearing too deeply; you drive them until they bottom. At that point, you get that tactile and audio confirmation that you're done.

The center spacer couldn't have gotten longer (unless you have a number of disassembled bikes, and somehow swapped one model's for another... which isn't very likely.)

It looks like you were careful to apply force to just the outer race, using an old bearing as a drift. So -- what went wrong? You didn't inadvertently nail the inner race, did you?

(And while I'm here -- as for getting bike bearings out, this tool can't be beat:

http://www.4strokes.com/reviews/pitposse/wbremover/

)


RB



I have to agree with what Robert Barr stated in a reply to the original post, any idea as to what could be the issue or is it a non-issue?


Thanks,
Dave
 
Not sure what is up with yours, the bearing should turn effortlessly and smoothly with a finger. Could the spacer somehow have gotten cocked sideways in there?
 
You only hit on the outer race, right?
I use a socket, pipe, old bearing that only contacts parimeter of the outer race, if you hit the seal or the center race it will bugger things up.
 
Not sure what is up with yours, the bearing should turn effortlessly and smoothly with a finger. Could the spacer somehow have gotten cocked sideways in there?

The spacer is in strait as I am able to slide the axle in.


You only hit on the outer race, right?
I use a socket, pipe, old bearing that only contacts parimeter of the outer race, if you hit the seal or the center race it will bugger things up.

Yes, I only hit the outside of the bearing using a 32 mm socket.
 
You can still check the spin by inserting the axle and suspending the axle/wheel between two large blocks of wood or some other structure. Just any way to brace it to allow you to spin.

Was the bearing bore nice and clean and smooth all around? Were there any signs of an earlier attempt to beat out a previous bearing and nicked the bearing bore (in the center of the wheel) with a punch (causing a groove or rise in the previously smooth surface material)?
 
The bearing that were in the bike were original. (I know all the PO's going back to around 84) They felt fine but I was afraid the grease was gone or crappy after seeing what the steering bearings looked like. However when I took them out they were fine!

Everything looked very clean and smooth but I will double check when I pop it apart again. I have a new set of bearing on order.
 
Update:

When I got the new bearings and I decided to measure the length of the spacer vs the length of the Hub. Turns out the spacer is ~ 0.030 inch longer than the outer hub ..... WTF !!!! I ordered some shims from Mcmaster Carr and all is well now!

Thanks,
Dave
 
I've seen this same thing on several wheels..... PITA! My previous cure has been to not seat the bearing as full as I could (i.e. I have tapped the bearing back a tiny amount - not good practice but needs/must) but taking some length off the spacer would be better if you've measured before you've inserted them.
 
I've seen this same thing on several wheels..... PITA! My previous cure has been to not seat the bearing as full as I could (i.e. I have tapped the bearing back a tiny amount - not good practice but needs/must) but taking some length off the spacer would be better if you've measured before you've inserted them.

I have a feeling that is exactly what Suzuki did too!


I thought about having the spacer cut down but it was easier (cheaper too) for me to buy shims than hunt down someone with a metal lathe.

-Dave
 
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