Gas-proof clearcoat/sealer?

[Dark Jedi]

I am painting bike #2, and want to find a good clearcoat sealer that does not blister or wrinkle if gas happens to spill on it.

I seldom spill the gas, but I do like to have some protection for the odd occourance of a pump that does not shut off properly.

Anybody find a good one? Preferrably in a spraycan, I am a bit low on painting supplies at the moment. (Crushed my sprayer and broke the basin on my air drier/regulator). Dang kids used the compressor on their bikes, and left these laying in the road when I pulled the Jeep in.

Guess I'll learn to look more closely next time. 8O

 

[Anonymous]

I have just used a laquer clear coat (not very common these days). Seems to resist gas spills. You can find more information on gas resistant paints by using a web search engine such as google.

More importantly, I would suggest staying away from the rattle can for a clear coat. While you can get reasonable results with rattle cans for base coats, a nice consistent finish is almost impossible to get with a rattle can as your finishing clear coat.

 

[Doze]

gas proof clearcoat

gas proof clearcoat

Jedi, if you want a gas proof clear coat you need to use a catalyst hardened acrylic urethane clear. It's the only one that will last. Anothre tip, don't paint all the way up to the edge of the filler neck, just to the base. Just leave the neck polished metal, that way there is no chance for the fumes to get under the edge of the paint and start lifting it. This is the voice of experience talking. You would be wise to heed it young Jedi, to avoid the sorrow and anguish of a repaint.
Doze. :wink:

 

[Anonymous]

Problem using laquer is you have to use laquer for your base coat, or you will ruin your paint job........ It has and can be done with lots and lots of light coats but is never recomened. Painting laquer over enamal is basically taking laquer thinner and laying it over regular paint , it eats it like paint striper. The best and most resistant paint clear is with the hadeners in spray guns. however if you can talk to your local paint dealer they can mix paints in spray cans....... If even just for your tank its worth the money to see if they can mix good automotive enamal clear in a can for you. And spraying something of tank size is not hard to get even spray just takes practice. But worse comes to worse, if you get enough coats on , wet sand and buff and you dont know the difference. Thats why clear is so great! I had a 2x4 come across the hood of my car and left a nasy gash in the clear....... it took some time but was able wet sand and buff out ...

 

[Dark Jedi]

Thanks for the tips.
I have been rattlecanning things for many years, and have grown pretty good at it.
I prefer a sprayer, but I'm too cheap to replace mine right now.

I think I have, somewhere, one of those "Make your own spraycan" kits from wayback. Maybe I can find the right stuff and put it in there for now. if I find it, that is.

 

[Jay B]

Thanks for the tips.
I have been rattlecanning things for many years, and have grown pretty good at it.
I prefer a sprayer, but I'm too cheap to replace mine right now.

I think I have, somewhere, one of those "Make your own spraycan" kits from wayback. Maybe I can find the right stuff and put it in there for now. if I find it, that is.

Dark,
Harbor Freight has what your looking for.

 

[Jay B]

More importantly, I would suggest staying away from the rattle can for a clear coat. While you can get reasonable results with rattle cans for base coats, a nice consistent finish is almost impossible to get with a rattle can as your finishing clear coat.

I hate to disagree but I have to. I used the Duplicolor Mirage system and got a wonderful finish. Ask Jedi he's seen it. I used about 10 coats of clear and wetsanded between each with 2000 grit wet dry paper. Lots of 3M fine cut polishing compound and then 3m swirl remover and I had a great finish. Check my before and after pictures in the Forum.


Jedi one of the thing s I forgot to tell you when you picked up that fairing. After I fixed the gas run in the tank I decided to use some plastic to cover the tank when ever I fill it. I got myself a piece of PVC pipe that is just slightly smaller that the filler hole, cut a hole in the plastic film and used a zip tie to hold the plastic to the PVC. Put that over the tank and fill her up. Any spills will be directed to the ground. I store it in the small pouch on the back of the silly bar.

 

[MichaelHoward]

I just carry a small rag in my tool pouch, I wrap it around the nozzle as soon as I get it out of tank. Works well!! No drips on tank.

 

[Dark Jedi]

More importantly, I would suggest staying away from the rattle can for a clear coat. While you can get reasonable results with rattle cans for base coats, a nice consistent finish is almost impossible to get with a rattle can as your finishing clear coat.

I hate to disagree but I have to. I used the Duplicolor Mirage system and got a wonderful finish. Ask Jedi he's seen it. I used about 10 coats of clear and wetsanded between each with 2000 grit wet dry paper. Lots of 3M fine cut polishing compound and then 3m swirl remover and I had a great finish. Check my before and after pictures in the Forum.


Jedi one of the thing s I forgot to tell you when you picked up that fairing. After I fixed the gas run in the tank I decided to use some plastic to cover the tank when ever I fill it. I got myself a piece of PVC pipe that is just slightly smaller that the filler hole, cut a hole in the plastic film and used a zip tie to hold the plastic to the PVC. Put that over the tank and fill her up. Any spills will be directed to the ground. I store it in the small pouch on the back of the silly bar.

Thanks, I was thinking of an interim fix and that would do it.

And I can attest to the paint on Jay's GS, seen it in person. It's very nice, clean and smooth.

It takes more work to make a rattlecan job look good, but it can be done.

 

[Diamondj]

Jedi - Most Home Depots and Lowes carry the make your own spray can kits plus the recharge cartridges as well. Plus if you go to a paint shop for a two part clear coat, they should also have the make you own spray can set but it will probably cost you more there. One rattlecan clear to consider (if you have a good hobby shop nearby) is the stuff they use on flying model airplanes. It's fuel proof and non yellowing. Black Baron and Coverite are two of the brands I have seen and used. You would probably want to set up a test panel to make sure the clear doesn't react with the color coat paint you use. You could also paint the entire bike with the stuff - they have a decent color selection including some metallics. If you have an airbrush and you want to get fancy with a lacquer sustem, www.slixx.com sells the full House of Kolor line in lacquers. Each 1oz airbrush bottle will net you 3 oz of sprayable paint (it's thinned 1 part paint to 2 parts thinner). The stuff runs $3.75 a bottle and keep in mind you'll need a primer coat, a white or black base coat, the pearl or candy color coat, and clear so it can add up fast if you get fancy......