Getting a GS850 up to speed

[frasermanx]

Testing

Testing

hey good idea about shoprag to restrict air flow. I will use that to test ... still not certain that all is well with this engine though. I will tell ya soon ...

I bought some 2" heater hose to replace the tubes for at least awhile.

BTW I have worked on all jap bikes and none of them run properly without the airbox, but I thought that the complete refusal to run over 3k was weird indicating other problems. The engine makes a sound like a governor cutting the engine

The filters on the carbs cost about $100 or more for 4 carbs so kinda pricey -- airbox way cheaper.

thx
frz

 

[Mr. Brown]

Update

Update

So I've been working on this project slowly, but making progress nonetheless.

I'm excited to say I finally took the bike on its maiden voyage... at least with me. It is a little rough, and needs a carb synch, but it was great to get it moving.

The headlight fuse blew a while ago, and since the bike is up and running, I figured it was time to get that fixed. It turns out that the extra load from the headlamp causes the bike to die... dammit!

Looks like I have an electrical issue. I'll be taking the battery to get checked tonight. I've printed the Stator Papers, and I'm looking forward to running through that. I've gotta say that getting around the hood a few times has really motivated me to keep working on this.

Someday...[-o<

 

[Mr. Brown]

All too often...

All too often...

 

[BassCliff]

Update?

Update?

Mr. Brown,

Thanks for the picture. What's the latest?


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Mr. Brown]

I bought this bike to ride it. I made a quick purchasing decision based on price and ignorance. I had no idea how much work I was going to have to do on this thing.... ever heard that before?

So far I've overhauled the airbox, inspected but not overhauled the carbs, spec'd the valve shims, and replaced a coil and all the spark plugs. I just replaced the gasket on the clutch cover because it was dribbling.

I still haven't figured out my charging issue. I'm not so sure I did a good job with the gaskets because both the valve cover and the clutch cover still dribble a little.

As I commented on the picture, I've spent too much time with the machine taken apart and unridable. In the last two weeks I've just left it alone with it's quirks and ridden it all over the place. I leave quarter sized oil drips when I park, and I have to plug it in at night, but I'm really enjoying it.

I'm taking it to a local shop with a good rep. with UJMs for some input. I need a compression check to make sure I don't have larger problems, and I'm tired of trying to diagnose the electronics myself.

Here's a question... why do my gaskets dribble? I think I might be getting a little overzealous when cleaning off the old gasket and I'm making the mating edges too flat... any suggestions on how to roughen them up?

I peruse this site and there are piles of pics of great looking restored bikes. I'd love to have one, but I'm just gonna ride this funky, uncalibrated machine for a bit...

 

[Guest]

Is your breather hose connected to your air box and free of clogs?

 

[Mr. Brown]

I read a related post about the breather hose, I think it was yours. When I removed the valve cover, I checked the breather cover, gasket, and hose. I replaced the airbox 2 months ago and cleaned the whole thing really well prior to install. The leaks don't seem pressure related. If I go out now and wipe off the bottom of the bike, there will be a few drops right along the gasket seam in the morning.

 

[Guest]

Did you get all the old gasket off?

 

[Mr. Brown]

Yes... if anything I was overzealous and might have made the mating edge too flat... can this cause a problem? Should I go back and sand it or something?

 

[Guest]

No such thing as a "too flat a mating surface". :-D Try a very thin layer of silicone in the area of the leak. Let it cure before installing the gasket.

 

[Mr. Brown]

Have a look

Have a look

I'm pretty sure that gasket's not my problem.

I had oil on my right boot when I got home today. I noticed that the whole clutch cover had a nice coat of oil on it. So does the right side of the cylinder head. As the following pictures will show, the leak is coming from the gasket between the cylinder head and the block.

Wow... that's gonna look huge.

Anyways, the leak drapes around the right side of the engine, over the clutch cover, and drips off the right side and center stand.

Like this...

I obviously have to replace this gasket. So...
- Any advice on which gasket to get? Suzuki OEM ok, or is there a "Uber-Gasket"?

- Is this leaking because it has 65,000mi on it, and the PO was riding it super lean, or are there other things I need to look for while I'm replacing it?

- Someone installed an oil cooler. It looks like crap. Should I remove it in case it is causing a problem, or just leave it alone. Here's a pic:

Thanks everyone!

 

[Guest]

You need to clean all that oil off to see where it's coming from. Could be the oil cooler, cam chain tensioner, head gasket, tachometer seal or valve cover gasket. You won't be able to tell until you clean it up. Use baby powder on it after you clean it up to see the troubled area.

 

[Mr. Brown]

Paper backing on gaskets? Really? Sheesh...
I read a post today about how someone felt stupid for not having taken the paper backing off the valve cover gasket... There's a paper backing?

So, instead of pulling off the valve cover and fixing the gasket, I installed aluminum side panels... cool, huh?

 

[Mr. Brown]

An update

An update

I haven't posted here in a while. I took my bike to a local guy who has worked for service centers in the past. He tuned my carbs for me, and was supposed to fix the charging system. He warned me that my temporary oil plug was leaking a little.

I rode it home, and upon making a U-Turn, I slid out on my own oil slick and crashed... right in front of a bike cop! He was good enough to help me pick it up before he started laughing. I tossed my now shattered windscreen on the sidewalk and limped it home. Besides a bent crash guard and busted gauge cluster, she seemed to be fine.

Fast forward 8 months to present.
Still not charging... but I have a Duneage Special R/R on the way to see if that will help. I picked up a cluster at a junkyard that seems to be from a newer Suzi. It fits, but of course the wiring colors are all different. I labeled them tonight, and will start soldering a harness together soon. I hope the power levels will be enough to light it up...

God, I just want this thing to run!
-=T=-

 

[WesV]

Before spending any more money on the charging system and on people who are not getting the bike fixed, check out the "Stator Papers"
These tell you how to diagnose your charging system to see if it is an R/R or a Stator

 

[BassCliff]

Hey Mr. Brown,

Wow, that some tough luck. Sorry to hear of your troubles. Like Mr. WesV said, go though the Stator Papers and get your charging system sorted out right the first time. It's not hard to do it yourself. I guess getting the oil leak fixed is pretty important too. Did you try an oversized, self-tapping drain plug? That didn't work? Maybe you should try a Time-Sert? Or perhaps pick up a good used oil pan in ebay? I hope you're back up an running in time for next season. Keep us informed.

EDIT: Oops, just noticed that you're in Florida. 'Tis the season all year long!

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[flyingace]

I saw you had a sidestand that has drifted south. I have the same problem - can't figure out how to reduce the overstretched angle. Maybe we can both get help here.

In the meantime, I drilled a hole in the 'foot' of the sidestand and bolted a 13/16 socket to the bottom and painted it black. It adds about 1 1/2 inches, and sets the bike at just about the right angle. Doesn't look too bad either. Another 'side' benefit is that the sidestand doesn't keep getting worse from all the extra weight.

 

[Mr. Brown]

I saw you had a sidestand that has drifted south. I have the same problem - can't figure out how to reduce the overstretched angle. Maybe we can both get help here.

My side stand pivot bolt is stripped. The nut is encased in a metal "box" and spins freely. Haven't gotten there yet, I just rely on the center stand. I'll probably have to grind that box open and replace the bolt.

 

[Mr. Brown]

Like Mr. WesV said, go though the Stator Papers and get your charging system sorted out right the first time. It's not hard to do it yourself.

I've tried a few times. 1) My multimeter is a piece of junk. The readings are really erratic. 2) I've tried with a friend's multimeter, and everything seemed to check out ok. So... I replaced everything. I got a Honda R/R (thanks, Duneage!) and swapped the stator with the one I had from a parts bike. The old stator turned out to be burned where the three wires meet. It works great!

My bike now runs, charges, and doesn't drip. :dancing:ray:

I guess getting the oil leak fixed is pretty important too. Did you try an oversized, self-tapping drain plug? That didn't work? Maybe you should try a Time-Sert? Or perhaps pick up a good used oil pan in ebay?

I bought a few self tapping bolts but can't install them without pulling the pan. If I have to pull the pan, I'll replace it with the one from the parts bike. Except... that pan's bolt is stuck in place. Hardcore. It may be Locktite-ed in place, meaning it might be stripped. We'll see.

In the meantime, I finished my MSF Basic course, got my endorsement this morning, and rode out to a show 45 minutes away this evening. I'd like to thank all of you who contributed your knowledge to make this possible.

Now. On to the:
- Steel braided brake lines
- Replace brake pads and front MC
- Recondition parts bike rims
- Swap front and rear tires with parts bike rims
- Replace speedo cable or sending unit (needle wobbles 20mph in both directions)
- replace corroded h-shaped muffler-thing
-....

-=T=-

 

[BassCliff]

Hey Mr. Brown,

Thanks for the update. You've had lots of good news to report. Congratulations on completing your MSF course and getting your motorcycle endorsement.

Now. On to the:
- Steel braided brake lines
- Replace brake pads and front MC
- Recondition parts bike rims
- Swap front and rear tires with parts bike rims
- Replace speedo cable or sending unit (needle wobbles 20mph in both directions)
- replace corroded h-shaped muffler-thing

-Plenty of posts related to braided stainless steel brake lines. Mr. bwringer has a "how to make your own" guide on his website.
-Brake pad replacements are pretty easy. Check my site if you want pictures. I have not rebuilt my m/c yet, sorry.
-Don't forget to replace the wheel bearings too.
-Are the other tires safe? How old are they?
-First, you might try removing your gauge cluster, turn it upside down, and put a few drops of your favorite lubricant in the cable inputs.
-I think that's called a "pre-muffler". I also think you can still get them OEM. Bikebandit has it listed for about $72.

Nice work. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff