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Got the Dyna S... now how exactly do I install it?

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Guest

Guest
I read the instructions, but I want to make absolutely sure I'm doing it right. For example, where exactly on the orange/white wire do I attach the splice connector? How about the white and black wires leading from the Dyna S unit, do they go into the plastic connector there? The wires coming up from the signal generator lead to this plug here.1572715430775791220453918114509.jpg
 
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Throw the scotchlok connectors in the trash and attach the wires properly by using solder and heat shrink tubing.
 
That... doesn't exactly help. I don't have a soldering iron anyway.

That's very helpful, by helping you avoid a serious mistake. Scotchloks are garbage doomed to fail quickly, and I don't know why Dyna includes these stupid things. You can get a perfectly adequate soldering iron, heat shrink, and a heat gun for less than $25 at Harbor Freight. Or you could invest a little more in getting yourself set up with a quality ratcheting crimper (not the ones from HF) and connectors to make truly bombproof connections.


So back to the question, I'll agree that Dyna's instructions are a wee bit cryptic, but all the info is there. What parts are unclear to you? Perhaps we can clarify.

From the nature of your questions, I think it might help you get a grip on things if you remove the stock parts and get them out of your way first. Remove the stock signal generator, and unplug and remove the ignition box.
 
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I have Scotchloks on my trailer, came from the factory that way. I am well aware of the problem so I sealed them with liquid electrical tape. Nine years later the connections are perfect. If I hadn't sealed them they would have started failing after the first year. They make a good quick connection until dirt and road salt gets in them. Cold solder joints are just as bad, not everyone can solder properly or even know how.
 
I used Scotchloks for years, indeed, I thought they were the bee's knees, the donkey's bollocks, the dog's hind legs, until I came to undo some older ones and found that the conductors were unnecessarily damaged by a crude design.
Yes, they're simple, cheap and quick, but that's the only reason they have a place at all - for simple, cheap and quick assembly or installation by workshops.
Anyone wanting to make a decent job shouldn't use them, as I found that even when they seem to be doing the job the main conductor that's being spliced onto may be damaged, and might fail when it's most wanted to be reliable.
I try to avoid the damn things these days, and often root out ones I find, replacing them with modern decent connectors or a simple solder and heatshrunk joint, that's wrapped with S-A tape if it's weather exposed.
Even a bullet connector is better in some ways, as it can easily be taken apart and cleaned, then protected with some gunge.
 
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