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Anonymous
Guest
i want my gs 1100 g to go fast (9 second 1/4's). i need buildup ideas. what combination cam shafts, pistons, what overbore or stroker kits, carbs, ... will get me there? :?: :?:
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lecroy
Guest
Re: gs 1100 g first motercycle buildup
Are you wanting to run the 9.90 S/G index? What kind of chassis mods do you have? Let's see a few pics of this bad boy!partsdrifter said:
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Anonymous
Guest
82 gs 1100 g first buildup
82 gs 1100 g first buildup
what chassie mod's do you recomend? sandblasted and polished to be powder coated
82 gs 1100 g first buildup
what chassie mod's do you recomend? sandblasted and polished to be powder coated
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lecroy
Guest
So, the bike is all stock and you want to put it in the 9s? Things that make it look nice really won't help you out much. Again, are you wanting it in the 9's for an index class? If not and your just running E/T I would practive being the mouse and forget the mods.
Jake, hurry up and run a 1/4 so we can see if all your mods will take him there.
Jake, hurry up and run a 1/4 so we can see if all your mods will take him there.
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Anonymous
Guest
gs 1100 g first buildup
gs 1100 g first buildup
we have time and equipment. can send pic's in day or two. please explain chassie mods for a solid runner (9 sec 1/4's). also, mods for wider rear wheel do i need that? i want to make a scary fast reliable bike. the case is split and layd out , any bullit proofing tranny mods? thanks for your time.
gs 1100 g first buildup
we have time and equipment. can send pic's in day or two. please explain chassie mods for a solid runner (9 sec 1/4's). also, mods for wider rear wheel do i need that? i want to make a scary fast reliable bike. the case is split and layd out , any bullit proofing tranny mods? thanks for your time.
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lecroy
Guest
Re: gs 1100 g first buildup
Re: gs 1100 g first buildup
Scary fast? 8O There is no formula, well nothing you would want to pound out. If the driver for example weighs, say 300 Lbs, it's going to take a lot more HP to get the bike down the track than a rider who is 120 Lbs. Then let's say the rider has no seat time. If we compare them with a pro rider, the pro may very well save more than a second off of the same bike just by riding skills alone. It's just not that simple.
You could try the 14 steps to building a drag bike.
http://www.teamrnr.co.uk/default.asp?txtPage=howto.htm
Attend an NHRA or ProStar event and have a look at how it's done. If you want an idea on the cost, give Falicon and Schnitz a call. Should be able to find them on the web.
Re: gs 1100 g first buildup
partsdrifter said:
Scary fast? 8O There is no formula, well nothing you would want to pound out. If the driver for example weighs, say 300 Lbs, it's going to take a lot more HP to get the bike down the track than a rider who is 120 Lbs. Then let's say the rider has no seat time. If we compare them with a pro rider, the pro may very well save more than a second off of the same bike just by riding skills alone. It's just not that simple.
You could try the 14 steps to building a drag bike.
http://www.teamrnr.co.uk/default.asp?txtPage=howto.htm
Attend an NHRA or ProStar event and have a look at how it's done. If you want an idea on the cost, give Falicon and Schnitz a call. Should be able to find them on the web.
RacingJake
Forum Sage
Well I would like too Lecroy but I got a small problem. I just got my upper case back from a friend that welded up my hairline crack and it's in alot of pieces. You can see where it was welded in the pic
I'm still waiting for the gaskets to show up plus I just found a lockup clutch to help prevent this from happening again. You know the 7K dump the clutch on the 2-step with a 7 inch slick and see what happens next thing.
I'm still waiting for the gaskets to show up plus I just found a lockup clutch to help prevent this from happening again. You know the 7K dump the clutch on the 2-step with a 7 inch slick and see what happens next thing.
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lecroy
Guest
What happened?RacingJake said:
RacingJake
Forum Sage
The first time out with the wheelie bars I was launching easy and adjusting the bars so the bike would go straight. So on run 8 & 9 I installed a 6K chip in the 2-step and the bike bogged alittle so on run 10 & 11 I went with a 7K chip and boy did she go. Got back to the pits and notice alittle oil around the upper case leftside motor mount, it was a hairline crack.
I feel the motor is trying to turn left inside the frame, cause looking at the left rear top motor mount bolt you can see it's bent alittle due to the torque, being pulled back toward the rear wheel.
So I'm going to make a second mount and spacer to add some strengh to the leftside motor mount. I should have the bike up and running again in a few weeks.
I think my bike was trying to tell me something, like take a break from racing. Causes two of our local heavy hitters have crashed in the past week.
I feel the motor is trying to turn left inside the frame, cause looking at the left rear top motor mount bolt you can see it's bent alittle due to the torque, being pulled back toward the rear wheel.
So I'm going to make a second mount and spacer to add some strengh to the leftside motor mount. I should have the bike up and running again in a few weeks.
I think my bike was trying to tell me something, like take a break from racing. Causes two of our local heavy hitters have crashed in the past week.
RacingJake
Forum Sage
Re: gs 1100 g first motercycle buildup
Lots of money
If it's a strip bike only go with the biggest cc's you can afford, and your carb size will depend on how big the motor is. 1200, 1300, 1400 or bigger.
Go for a 7inch slick mods and wheelie bars, does'nt cost much more than a 5 inch slick.
I hear a slider clutch is the best, but you'll need to tow or push the bike to and from the pits.
Nitrous is cheap and quick, until something breaks.
Check other webb sites for a complete bike, I've seen GS base dragbikes with all the goodies for only $2500 if you did it yourself it could cost 3 times as much.
You can always go out and pickup a GXSR 1000 or 1300.
partsdrifter said:
Lots of money
If it's a strip bike only go with the biggest cc's you can afford, and your carb size will depend on how big the motor is. 1200, 1300, 1400 or bigger.
Go for a 7inch slick mods and wheelie bars, does'nt cost much more than a 5 inch slick.
I hear a slider clutch is the best, but you'll need to tow or push the bike to and from the pits.
Nitrous is cheap and quick, until something breaks.
Check other webb sites for a complete bike, I've seen GS base dragbikes with all the goodies for only $2500 if you did it yourself it could cost 3 times as much.
You can always go out and pickup a GXSR 1000 or 1300.
R
Richie
Guest
if you want it to be a street bike and ride it on the street i would go to a 68" wheel base, gsxr wheels, and gsxr front end, also a 1260 motor, back cut trans, lock up, a welded crank of course, and 1mm over sized valves with porting should easily put you into the mid/low nines... on the other hand if its a full time race bike you could do the same chassis modad as above(i like no wheelie bars) a slightly bigger motor, like a 1294-1394, big valves, lots of port work, a crank with billit throws, straight cut gear and katana rods and a slider!!, also some lectron carberators will make that monster go into the 8's with no wheelie bar with a good rider. well theres some idea's.......later, Richie
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gtsg01
Guest
I think that in the heat of the moment, everyone has missed the fact that this bike is an 1100G (Shaft Drive). I believe that it could possibly go into the 10.90 range, but not for long.
The final drive is not geared for really quick 1/4 mile blasts, and there are no lower or stronger gears available.
Good Luck with your project.
The final drive is not geared for really quick 1/4 mile blasts, and there are no lower or stronger gears available.
Good Luck with your project.
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lecroy
Guest
:lol: :lol: Good one!! I think we would put a shaft in the 9's. They could have their own class.
Jake, that's too bad. I just tossed a GS block a few weeks ago that had so many fractures in the front that it was not worth repairing. I wonder if anyone is going to start casting new ones before there are no more to be had.
gtsg01 said:
That was my thought too. 8)
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Anonymous
Guest
gs 1100 g first motercycle buildup
for a street bike. i've ordered sleeves and bore kit 1200cc, 13.5 to 1 compression and performance exaust. will take head in to be ported and oversized 1mm. will my origial carbs work if i rejet? what size and brand carbs do you recomend? What cam would be best/ lift and duration are my stock cams ok( gs 1100 g)? do i need to do anything to my crank for this setup? clutch ?i would like instructions on welding the driveshaft. parts i need:1. the bottom plastic piece on the timming chain tensioner assembly. 2. side covers :-k :mrgreen:
for a street bike. i've ordered sleeves and bore kit 1200cc, 13.5 to 1 compression and performance exaust. will take head in to be ported and oversized 1mm. will my origial carbs work if i rejet? what size and brand carbs do you recomend? What cam would be best/ lift and duration are my stock cams ok( gs 1100 g)? do i need to do anything to my crank for this setup? clutch ?i would like instructions on welding the driveshaft. parts i need:1. the bottom plastic piece on the timming chain tensioner assembly. 2. side covers :-k :mrgreen:
KGB
Forum Sage
To be honest......Too many things against you.
It's a shaft drive. How will you change gearing?
Custom built gears?
It's pretty heavy, it will need to lose weight.
yes the motor is bullet proff, but will need extensive mods to make enough power to push it down the track.
It's one thing to take a GS1100/1000 even a 750/650/550 non shaft and modify it. To do this with a shaft version.....lots of time,sweat and $$$.
Good luck, not trying to burst your bubble, just trying to be avoice of reason.
It's a shaft drive. How will you change gearing?
Custom built gears?
It's pretty heavy, it will need to lose weight.
yes the motor is bullet proff, but will need extensive mods to make enough power to push it down the track.
It's one thing to take a GS1100/1000 even a 750/650/550 non shaft and modify it. To do this with a shaft version.....lots of time,sweat and $$$.
Good luck, not trying to burst your bubble, just trying to be avoice of reason.
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Anonymous
Guest
Very good reasons - another is the couse of rear rim/tire combinations. The list goes on and on. It you want to drag race get a chain drive.