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GS 1100 Head gasket torque question again

  • Thread starter Thread starter Street Fighter
  • Start date Start date
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Street Fighter

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OK my engine has about 400 mi on it since all new everything with a weisco 1166 kit
When I put it together I used the cometic composit head gasket it didnt work it leaked.
So I just pulled the head and block and replaced the base gasket with a factory one and the head gasket with a cometic MLS.
Cometic says install the MLS head gasket and torque it down to factory specs 25.5 -29 ft lbs. the three 6mm bolts to 5.0-8.0 wait 20 minutes then one bolt at a time retorque with no heat cycle then you dont have to retorque it again ever.
Does this work or do some of you check the torque again at say 100 miles
And should I torque at the top of the range 29 ft lbs and 8.0 for the two sides and the 6mm in front.
(PS stock factory studs)
 
OK my engine has about 400 mi on it since all new everything with a weisco 1166 kit
When I put it together I used the cometic composit head gasket it didnt work it leaked.
So I just pulled the head and block and replaced the base gasket with a factory one and the head gasket with a cometic MLS.
Cometic says install the MLS head gasket and torque it down to factory specs 25.5 -29 ft lbs. the three 6mm bolts to 5.0-8.0 wait 20 minutes then one bolt at a time retorque with no heat cycle then you dont have to retorque it again ever.
Does this work or do some of you check the torque again at say 100 miles
And should I torque at the top of the range 29 ft lbs and 8.0 for the two sides and the 6mm in front.
(PS stock factory studs)

I don't know the answer, but from your description the MLS is designed to not have to re-torque the head gasket, but that doesn't mean that it will go wrong if you do re-torque it. So a retorque is still optional.

Also did you use a cometic base gasket also warranted by cometic? If not how are they going to guarantee the results if a composite base gasket settles?

I would re-toque and recheck your valves after a couple of heat cycles. You might go a little longer 250 miles if you believe any of the cosmetic claims.

Since you don't seem to have massive oil leaks I assume they have corrected the original design flaws of the first MLS gaskets.

As far as torque range I would make sure you have a good technique (clean and oiled threads; calibrated wrench, proper technique) l for measuring torque and stay consistently on the hi side. BTW nothing I describe requires anything other than a HF torque wrench.
 
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I have done this twice on my 850. I used the old style asbestos type gasket the first time and the MLS the second. I had to re-torque both after heat cycles to get it back to target torque. The OEM MLS developed oil leaks until I increased the torque to 32 ft lbs. Since then no problems.

When I had mine apart I didn't resurface the cylinder or head and I think the minor imperfections in the surface was the cause of the leaks. I would suggest doing that if you use the MLS.

Good luck
 
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I have done this twice on my 850. I used the old style asbestos type gasket the first time and the MLS the second. I had to re-torque both after heat cycles to get it back to target torque. The OEM MLS developed oil leaks until I increased the torque to 32 ft lbs. Since then no problems.

When I had mine apart I didn't resurface the cylinder or head and I think the minor imperfections in the surface was the cause of the leaks. I would suggest doing that if you use the MLS.

Good luck

That is the caveat in all MLS technologies; near perfectly machined surfaces. Although you can not achieve perfection Big Jay has clarified the surface finish requirement and has specified that a"Pretty" finish will have no problems.
 
I have a Snap on digital torque wrench just calabrated.
400 miles since I had the head and block serviced.
factory base gasket.
 
I re-torque REGARDLESS of gasket brand or material. I also go to 32 ft. lbs. on stock studs on any performance build that I can't talk the owner into using better studs. Ray.
 
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