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Gs 1100g r/r

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS1100HAL
  • Start date Start date
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GS1100HAL

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Hi folks, Hope you nice people can shed some light on this. Not had the GS for long, had a bit of wireing to sort out so i checked the voltage across the battery at 5000rpm and meter read 17+ volts :eek:..Had a look at the r/r and it has 6 wires...Green, red/white, a black and 3 yellows. The geen wire and the black one are both earthed to the frame, the red/white goes to a red that ends up to the ignition switch and the yellows go to the white/blue, white/red and yellow. Does this seem correct? Can not supply the r/r number its rubbed off. Many thanks in advance for replys. great site btw
 
GS1100HAL said:
Hi folks, Hope you nice people can shed some light on this. Not had the GS for long, had a bit of wireing to sort out so i checked the voltage across the battery at 5000rpm and meter read 17+ volts :eek:..Had a look at the r/r and it has 6 wires...Green, red/white, a black and 3 yellows. The geen wire and the black one are both earthed to the frame, the red/white goes to a red that ends up to the ignition switch and the yellows go to the white/blue, white/red and yellow. Does this seem correct? Can not supply the r/r number its rubbed off. Many thanks in advance for replys. great site btw
Click to expand...
Sounds like a Shindengen ( or clone) R/R, if so the black wire is the sense wire (head to Basscliff's site) and needs to be connected to switched positive source or it will fail to properly control the R/R output. Fix asap or that high voltage could damage stuff. Post a pic of label if you can.
 
Hi,

The green wire is the ground. The black wire is the "sense" wire and needs to be connected to a switched 12v source. A lot of us use the brake light wire at the brake switch, but any 12v switched source (on when the key is on) will do. See the diagram.

HondaRRconnections.jpg



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I run the sense wire to the battery positive terminal, due to voltage drop in the switched tail light lead causing an overcooked battery on a trip. I've only done this on a few bikes so far, only the bikes that got Honda R/R's after the battery incident, but there have been no ill effects from it.

While you are in there, its also worthwhile to add a ground wire from the solenoid bolt to the battery, and also to the frame.
 
850 Combat said:
I run the sense wire to the battery positive terminal, due to voltage drop in the switched tail light lead causing an overcooked battery on a trip. I've only done this on a few bikes so far, only the bikes that got Honda R/R's after the battery incident, but there have been no ill effects from it.
Click to expand...
This is also what I do and for same reason - the current draw(when bike is off) thru sense wire is insignificant on two Shindengens that I checked.
 
thanks for replys guys. Before i start to rewire was wondering about the white/red!! forget about it going to the ignition switch like i first thought, it was connected to a red thats live permantly. Should i connect it up to it again or can i put it straight to the battery with an inline 15amp fuse? Also i see in the diagram that the black wire goes to the brake switch AND the orange in the fuse box, is that how its done? btw it is a Shindengen tom203 ... once again many many thanks
 
Personally, I'd connect the red/white from R/R to that red wire- this puts R/R output direct to harness. Some folks go direct to battery positive with in line fuse- if you use this method, I'd use a 20 amp fuse. In any event make sure to have a good ground connection from R/R (green wire) to battery negative.
 
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