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GS1000 air filter question (not pods !!)

  • Thread starter Thread starter zedman
  • Start date Start date
Z

zedman

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The PO on my bike got rid of the stock air filter, the box is in tact, but on the intake end under the seat he installed a single cone filter. Anyone do this before, any thoughts ?? I'm not interested in messing around with PODS, even though I like the simplicity of it all !
 
Sounds like maybe a K&N or Emgo aftermarket reuseable filter..not a big deal. Pics may help ID the actual cartridge.
 
It's paper, probably some cheapo from princess auto. My question was whether or not that would be enough to need to re-jet carbs !
If not, I'll just measure the opening diameter and find a nice EMGO or K&N and go that route !
Cheers.
 
And sorry, I can't tell you how 'exactly' how she runs. I drove it home from the PO's place (about 65 kms) with (supposedly) new carbs installed, but not sync'd, a leaking petcock (with vac line blocked) and the air filter removed. Started ok, ran okay when warmed up, but you would have to roll on the throttle gently otherwise she'd bog out, then she'd go like stink ! And she missed every couple of mins or so (I could hear it audibly and feel it)
 
All my 1000s stumble a bit without a filter in place. The engine needs that little restriction to FORCE the carbs to sip gas efficently.

Bet you put that cone one back in and she will run like stink right thru the full range..give it try.
 
That is reassuring, thank you ! Funny, I've had lots of old bikes in the past, rebuilt carbs, etc, never had an issue. I bought this bike for it's simplicitity and seemingly no stupid design flaws (eg--oil starvation in the old v65 hondas, or the 2nd gear issue in the yammie xs's). Now I start researching on this site and see that leaking carbs is a super common issue (my garage reeked of gas before I pulled the tank/ petcock). I'm hoping the 'pingel' valve will solve that problem !
thanks again
 
Be sure to turn the pingel off EVERY time you get off the bike to avoid gas leakage into the crankcase oil..not good.
 
Indeed, though I thought that wouldn't happen on pre '80 models (with the VM carbs)from what i've read thus far.
I see you've got 78 and 79 gs1000's, what's your take/ thought on my leaking petcock debacle. There seem to be many schools of thought on this one !
 
I have removed the air box on several gs's before with good results,and installed a K+N filter directly to the 2 1/2"inlet on back of the what I call the plenum, That way you still use the velocity stacks that are inside the plenum,which the CV carbs if you deciede to upgrade to them seem to like,and it appears stock from the sides,and keeps out water etc.,and properly supports the back of the carbs which keeps the intake manifolds in good shape. And as far as jetting a stage 3 Dynojet kit with the smaller of the stage 3 jets seemed to work for me with a megaphone header,baffle installed.;) Although I don't see any problems with the VM carbs with a similar set up and the jetting will be real close to the pods because the plenum,velocity stack effect if your air box has them inside it,and the lack turbulance passing past the pod filters.Just one mans opinion.Ward Performance has tested this same set up I have been using and got over 135 hp with mild porting,and a couple mm over bore on some 1100's. So seems to work
 
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Cheers, excellent to know, thank you !
for now, I just want to get her up and running and keep things simple !
 
Eric asked me to share these photos of his skunk. PM me for his email ad if you want his help with jetting.
DSC02462_zpsb365b2cd.jpg

DSC02461_zps9f66f198.jpg
 
thanks for the pic, much appreciated. I looked it up on EBAY, that part number lists all as having 2.75 " ID as opposed to what I have 2.5"
could it be a transposition error with the part number ? I tried several different combos, no luck !
cheers
 
My bad on that filter #.I had that filter box sitting on the bench here and thought it was the right one.Sorry there. It is a 2.75 inlet. The only 2.5 x 7 straight,oval filters I find anymore have a 10 degree offset flange. Is by any chance the one you have in your pic have a # on the rubber end cap.If so what is it? Or what are the dimensions of the one in your pic? It looks to be the same filter I have used in the past and I am needing one now.I'm wondering if that exact filter in your pic is discontinued because that is the one I have used before. If no # I will keep digging and see if I can find that article Ward Performance had and in that they had the # of the filter they used in there dyno tests.Thanks for any help with that number. :confused:
 
No luck on the K&N number from anyone yet I take it ? I'll figure it out and post when I do ! cheers
 
The only K&N filter I can find any more that should fit measures 2.438 in. inside dia.(62mm) it's 7 inches long, oval, and straight with a 16 mm centered flange and has a rubber end cap. K&N part # RU1810 All of the 2.500 inch oval straight centered flange filters come with a 10 degree offset flange now. :confused: I'm going to get one and see how it fits and get back to ya!
 
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Erics going to get it to me tomorrow and I pass it along. I need this info myself as it would be a good alternative to only have to clean and oil one filter instead of 4.:rolleyes:
 
If your carbs are leaking gas into the crank case your carbs are not set up properly. The pingle pet cock with an off setting is a bandaid. Your fuel needles and or seats wmight be worn out. Pull them out and look for witness marks on the tip. You might also have leaky o-rings on your fuel needle seats and or your floats are not properly set. When you get them set up correctly they will not leak and you can verify this by pouring fuel in them on your work bench. The fuel level should not change. You might have to tap on the float bowl to get the floats to not stick the first time.
 
Cleaned my carbs (they were full of cloudy gas and the odd piece of junk !! otherwise they looked great, adjusted teh floats to 24mm, only one was a little off. All works great now. Air filter on (paper filter), and she purrs and runs like a hot damn !!
now to rebuild a sticky rear caliper (it's always something, but at least these bikes are so simple pretty soon you've got everything done !)
I did the coil relay mod while it was all apart, starts super easy now
 
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