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Gs1100 brakes

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mercaholic
  • Start date Start date
M

Mercaholic

Guest
So after disconnecting my anti-dive setup, replacing the pads and installing steel brake lines, the bike stops well but I cannot lock it up even on a sandy/gravel surface. The level 'feel' is much improved however.

What did I miss?
 
Might have a little air in the system, perhaps? I've yet to do the SS line mod, but probably wouldn't enjoy the front locking up, esp on sand & gravel.:-s

Tony.
 
Yeah im not sure Id WANT them to lock up. You tryin to do stoppies on that big sucker?? :eek:
 
It takes a couple hundred miles for new pads to bed in, and they can feel pretty weak until they do. They'll sharpen up immensely in a couple of days. Or however long it takes you to pile on some miles.
 
the bike stops well but I cannot lock it up even on a sandy/gravel surface
Click to expand...

I've seen this comment made before on this forum..why on earth would you want to be able to lock up your brakes :confused:

When I was taking the MSF, I saw my first accident, a student locked up his front brake..all I can say is it wasn't pretty.
 
TheCafeKid said:
Yeah im not sure Id WANT them to lock up. You tryin to do stoppies on that big sucker?? :eek:
Click to expand...

:D I don't think your ever going to get them to stop like a modern sport bike, unless you completely change the caliper/rotor.
 
Brakes

Brakes

I can't compare the brakes on the GS to my ZRX, so I will wait for the brakes to get bedded in .

One thing for sure is the brakes are at least 50% more effective than before and for safety reasons alone, is worth the $100 overall investment.
 
Yes, you can lock up the front brakes on a GS on dry pavement. And it's survivable. :D

Awfully chattery, though. 37mm forks tend to flex a bit.
 
I've locked both my wheels a few times on my '82 EZ. All stock hardware, with a poor working anti-dive (fork tends to bounce a bit instead of just stiffening), on the incredibly hot streets of Phoenix. Make sure you've purged all the air out of the lines. Also, do you need to resurface rotors on a bike like you do on cars? Doing just a pad slap on automotive brakes can have this effect, as you don't break up the high temp glazing that can occur on rotors. Turning a rotor also makes the contact surface nice and flat, so maximum co-effecient of friction can be obtained, increasing brake system effeciency. Without a turning, you have little grooves like a record in your rotor, and your pads have to wear away until they fit into the grooves. I think this might be what people call "bedding in". Just make sure to measure the rotors with a good vernier caliper afterwards, to ensure they're still within spec for thickness. Thin rotors will warp/crack, since there's not enough metal to dissapate the heat generated by braking, which will lead to a pulsation while braking, and brake fade, and possibly something worse if the rotor ends up cracking.

Make sure you're not leaking any fluid as well, I'd probably check for that first, then bleed air, then check rotor and pad contact. Take a looksy at your pistons in your calipers, make sure they're not frozen. That's about all I can think of that might go wrong, other than possible debris in the lines themselves, which might impede hydraulic action.
 
almarconi said:
I've seen this comment made before on this forum..why on earth would you want to be able to lock up your brakes :confused:
Click to expand...

If it won't stop well enough to lock a wheel on gravel, it sure as Hell does not stop well enough to go out in traffic.
 
tkent02 said:
If it won't stop well enough to lock a wheel on gravel, it sure as Hell does not stop well enough to go out in traffic.
Click to expand...



+1 I think he was just trying to illustrate the lack of braking power it has despite the new pads, etc. Not trying to say that he wants to lock up his front brake in sand.
 
Turtleface said:
Without a turning, you have little grooves like a record in your rotor, and your pads have to wear away until they fit into the grooves. I think this might be what people call "bedding in".
Click to expand...

There's more to it than that, but that is part of it. Molecular transfers, heat curing the pad compound, and other scientific sounding technical stuff which I can't remember well enough to write about. Read up about bedding brakes and go do it. It works. It takes enough hard braking to get things very hot, but not hard enough to ruin the pads before they cure. And none of these brake applications should come to a complete stop, only to a slower speed. Just google it.
 
tkent02 said:
There's more to it than that, but that is part of it. Molecular transfers, heat curing the pad compound, and other scientific sounding technical stuff which I can't remember well enough to write about. Read up about bedding brakes and go do it. It works. It takes enough hard braking to get things very hot, but not hard enough to ruin the pads before they cure. And none of these brake applications should come to a complete stop, only to a slower speed. Just google it.
Click to expand...

I see. My personal preference as an obsessive compulsive, gotta do it all the way sorta guy, is still to blanchard grind the rotors, (provided one still has enough material to make it worthwhile, and start with a nice fresh surface. Obviously, it's not necessary, as many people aren't doing such things, but I like things done as close to perfect as possible.

It appears bedding in is designed to mostly heat treat the binders that they use to hold the brake pad together. This makes the pad itself a bit harder, and significantly reduces brake fade, and brake smoking. All of the more professionally written articles I've found on the subject still suggest resurfacing the rotor at minimum, and prefer a new one. Your mileage may vary.
 
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