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Gs1100 Cam Chain Broke at 8k.

  • Thread starter Thread starter gs1150streetracer
  • Start date Start date
Shame about the motor.... (Cant type what I first thought, But I guess you have already said it)


"Ed, educate me because it apears you know something I don't & I specialize in 16 valve engines. How are you supposed to hold the adjuster screw & get a socket over the nut to use a torque wrench? I have done valve adjustments on 16 valvers a couple of times & KNOW you need to hold the adjuster screw to keep it from turning while you lock down the nut. So.......... how do I use a torque wrench on it? Just curious & always looking to learn something. Ray."

Ray I am not as versed in the 16 valvers as yourself. But could you use a crows foot spanner on a tension wrench????

Cheers
Tas
 
you have to...\
i repeat.
you have to crank down the adjuster nuts so this does not happen.
they are tough for there size....no torque wrench stuff...just a box end wrench and A LOT of pressure used to tighten.
i have seen this many times..damn shame.
good luck on getting it back together.
let me know if i can be of any assistance.
I spun two adjuster studs and nuts out of their rockers once on a missed shift where the tach needle got buried. I thought it was terminal the way the bike sounded. I was just a couple of blocks from home so I rode it out. Pulled the valve cover and found the two adjusters laying on top of the head, got lucky. I thought I had them torqued down pretty good but obviously not good enough.
 
Ed, educate me because it apears you know something I don't & I specialize in 16 valve engines. How are you supposed to hold the adjuster screw & get a socket over the nut to use a torque wrench? I have done valve adjustments on 16 valvers a couple of times & KNOW you need to hold the adjuster screw to keep it from turning while you lock down the nut. So.......... how do I use a torque wrench on it? Just curious & always looking to learn something. Ray.

Ray, I know lots of things you don't, not just something.:D

Tighten the adjuster using one of those little tools to hold the adjuster hex, or what ever method you choose. After it's "tight" to the best of your knowledge, take a torque wrench with a socket and check to see if the nut moves before the wrench clicks off (or otherwise indicates the proper torque level). If the nut moves, the adjuster may have also so time to double check the clearance. The important detail is to train yourself to develop the proper hand feel for the required torque. I wouldn't want to have to use a torque wrench forever on something like that but it's a good reference check to make sure the nuts are properly tightened until you can fully trust your own feel.
 
Thanks all for your reponses,I will post more pics of the engine damaged this caused tonight.....Does anyone know if i need longer rocker screws(aftermarket) for G3 cams and a 1150 head?I think this might of been the problem if so:(....
 
Ray, I know lots of things you don't, not just something.:D

Tighten the adjuster using one of those little tools to hold the adjuster hex, or what ever method you choose. After it's "tight" to the best of your knowledge, take a torque wrench with a socket and check to see if the nut moves before the wrench clicks off (or otherwise indicates the proper torque level). If the nut moves, the adjuster may have also so time to double check the clearance. The important detail is to train yourself to develop the proper hand feel for the required torque. I wouldn't want to have to use a torque wrench forever on something like that but it's a good reference check to make sure the nuts are properly tightened until you can fully trust your own feel.

Ed given the uncertainty in torque due to stiction friction, I dont think that method would be worth trying. It is like trying to retorque a head bolt without first backing it off first.
 
the long adjuster's are nice and not real expensive.
they can be used on stock cams also and have a nice allen internal hex and they even come with a wrench.
the nuts come loose because they are not tightened properly.
 
Ed given the uncertainty in torque due to stiction friction, I dont think that method would be worth trying. It is like trying to retorque a head bolt without first backing it off first.

Set the torque wrench 10% high then. Doing something, even if flawed, is better than doing nothing.
 
I just torque mine really good, almost to the point of the threads giving way. Never had one back out.
 
EXACTLY!!! Ray.
Well after checking around my 3 other Gs1150 based engines(1150 heads) to make SURE the nuts where MAN tight,I used a Craftsman Torq wrench at 8.5 ft lb,I know to do it with an open end wrench or Z1 tool,but I was just checking things Bored waiting for parts and found this
bikebroke035.jpg
on my dragbike Engine only been down track 4 times,I quess this adjuster was ready to let loose also...This engine was built by a local PRO guy had different size nuts on the adjuster screws:(Bikebandit here I come.After finding this I am glad I have 1150 heads on all 3 of my bikes so Valve cover will easy to get to not 20 bolts like my old 1100.I must say this has me PARINOID.....
 
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The Valve damage the screw caused,glad i have an almost fresh set from an 1150 parts bike years ago...Every exhaust valve except the one that the adjuster came lose on..lol and 2 intake....
008.jpg
 
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GS's take 8mm wrenches or was there a mixture of 8mm and 9mm used.
i thought roller bearing GS's used 9mm.
i robbed some from an 83 750 years back and they was 8mm.
is GSXR's 8mm also?
i also use a box end wrench even if i have to modify it some with a grinder.
i wouldn't worry about 2 diff size nuts..just man tighten them and life will be good.
sometimes PRO's build the engines and have minimum wage grease monkeys do the small stuff.
 
to be honest a person with any type of performance parts should have a routine to go over things such as valve adjustments and such a couple times a month(drag racers or hard street riders).
this could save a lot of down time and dollars out the window.
 
to be honest a person with any type of performance parts should have a routine to go over things such as valve adjustments and such a couple times a month(drag racers or hard street riders).
this could save a lot of down time and dollars out the window.
Thanks for the reply,Yea i checked the valve clearance after the bike ran down the track 4 times it was fine never had to loosen anything,glad i decided to have a look,the adjuster was extended for the bigger G4 cams and did have 8mm and 9mm mitch match nuts,I know it dont mean much but when you pay $5000 for an engine the bolts should match,its not a junkyard dog after all..lol
 
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