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GS1100E routing air pressure equalization line

  • Thread starter Thread starter AJ
  • Start date Start date
A

AJ

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Not sure if this should be over in carbs, but since it's got 'performance mods'...

My '82 1100E seems to "hunt" when running on the highway at steady speeds (65+). I suspect the positioning of the carburetor pressure equalization line. The tube is currently run up under the seat over the inner fender. I added a small plastic tool tray from another bike to cover up the opening between the frame rails where the airbox used to be. The bike has side covers installed.

I know these tubes don't work well when dropped directly into the airstream and think this location is pretty sheltered. Stock position is usually right at the inlet to the airbox (removed).

Background: The engine is set up with K&N pods, Dynojet Stage 3, and Kerker 4:1 pipe with street baffle. Not sure if anyone remembers my early tuning troubles, but the bike came with a HUGE Kerker drag baffle that I could barely get the carbs tuned to run with. Replacing that baffle with a normal sized baffle helped ridability (and sound) greatly. I ended up with all the Stage 3 components in place and the needle in its absolute highest position. The only thing I can do next is bigger main jets and I am still considering drilling out a set of my small jets to try it. But she seems to be fine WOT, running strong and cleanly to (and past) redline, which is why I haven't done that yet (plus all the needle fiddling I'd have to do again!).

I've also read about wind turbulence affecting K&N pods on drag engines, but forget the source.

Does anybody have a similar setup? Where are you routing your atmospheric pressure line?

Any votes for playing with the main jets instead?
 
the common solution to running pods is to remove the pipes altogether. Dynojet recommend this and i, as well as countless others have done this and it seems to work fine.
 
Agemax said:
the common solution to running pods is to remove the pipes altogether. Dynojet recommend this and i, as well as countless others have done this and it seems to work fine.
Click to expand...
I haven't heard that before. Are you saying to simply disconnect the tubes at the carbs?

(note, my carbs are set up with two tubes, joined by a T, and running a single equalization line back under the seat)
 
AJ said:
I haven't heard that before. Are you saying to simply disconnect the tubes at the carbs?

(note, my carbs are set up with two tubes, joined by a T, and running a single equalization line back under the seat)
Click to expand...

yep, just pull the pipes off the the carbs and leave the "nipples" open.
 
Same recommendation for the VM Carburetors. I have never had any trouble running mine like that.
 
OldVet66 said:
Same recommendation for the VM Carburetors. I have never had any trouble running mine like that.
Click to expand...

yeah, mine are the VM carbs, you get the same instructions with either kit for the GS1K, but they include all parts on the list, so the kit will work with CV's or VM's.
 
Agemax said:
this is the sheet i got with my DJ kit, scanned it and highlighted the right bit....

Click to expand...

That is a very old kit. EDIT it seems to be the wrong jet kit. It is for a GS1000

http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/3133.pdf

Now a days the DJ3133 comes with 132/138 which is stock you would go with the 132 when adding 4:1 and Pods. The needle also has a different part number which they seem to have fiddled with the design.

Usually this is a pretty standard setup so I would guess your problems are the old jet kit and more specifically the needles.
 
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posplayr said:
That is a very old kit.

http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/3133.pdf

Now a days the DJ3133 comes with 132/138 which is stock you would go with the 132 when adding 4:1 and Pods. The needle also has a different part number which they seem to have fiddled with the design.

Usually this is a pretty standard setup so I would guess your problems are the old jet kit and more specifically the needles.
Click to expand...

i dont have any problems with my set up. i just showed the pic so OP could see about removing vent hoses.........
 
As Agemax said, simply lose the vent hoses... I'm running pods on my '81 1100 & that's exactly what Ive done with zero ill effects...
 
Haven't tried to remove that balance tube yet, but I did find the Dynojet instructions online and there is nothing in there about removing it. http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/3133.pdf
Looked at a few other instruction sheets too and none of them recommend removing the vent tubes. Will give Dynojet a call tomorrow.
 
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Spoke with Dynojet yesterday evening. They recommended
1) Going back to the stock air jets and readjusting the idle mixture.
2) Remove the vent tubes (even though that step is omitted from the current directions.

Wil report back.
 
it has been a long time procedure removing the vent tubes with the DJ kits. maybe DJ thought it was such common knowledge they didn't bother adding it to the instructions any more(?)......
 
Agemax said:
it has been a long time procedure removing the vent tubes with the DJ kits. maybe DJ thought it was such common knowledge they didn't bother adding it to the instructions any more(?)......
Click to expand...
Well, that would be sad, given we live in an age where you buy a new electric toaster and the 'instructions' provide a full page of text explaining that it is not safe to use this product in the bathtub.

Anyway.... pulled off the line running to the back of the bike and left the two tubes from the carbs T'd together, with the end open just above and between the two center carbs. A short ride at 65 and it definitely seemed improved. I need to try it on a faster road, but my wife was riding her bike with me and she doesn't like going so fast.

Cheers!
----------------------
Update 5/19/13 - Got about 30 minutes of high speed riding on the bike and removing the tube appears to have fixed the problem.
 
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