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GS1100E with K&N jet stage 3 kit settings?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
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Anonymous

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I installed a new K&N stage 3 jet kit using the recommended settings which is DJ138 main jets, enlarged slide holes using the K&N drill bit, K&N needles 3rd clip from the top and fuel mixture screws out 2.5 turns. I also installed the DH160 pilot air jet screws (which leans out the bottom end) just because the stock ones were looking really rough.

I've got K&N individual pod filters and a Supertrapp 4 into 1 pipe. Is anyone else using this jet ket and what settings did you use? It seems to gurgle and hesitate at low range but once I get on the throttle a little, it smooths out quite a bit. I think it's a rich condition at low end.

BTW, this is my first ride this year and the first time ever I've been out for a ride in February in my 20 years of motorcycling. My previous earliest was when I was 17 and it was March 6, 1985.
 
Dude, I feel your pain. If you look at the topic just above yours, you'll see my same setup with the same relative issues. The only difference is the pipe; mine is a Kerker, probably not much difference in the applications. Go ahead and read some of the responses to my questions and we'll be on the same page. My main problem is with gurggling at around 3500 to 5000rpms at part throttle. Open it up and no problems. I'm going to play with raising the needles a little as I think the bike is surging because it's running too lean. My personal email is mvigelis@cox.net. Keep me posted as to any progress and I'll do the same. Good luck..........RJ
 
sounds as if you are just a little too lean in the lower RPM's and its starving for fuel until you get into the power range where the slide really opens up
 
Re: GS1100E with K&N jet stage 3 kit settings?

CDNBandit said:
I installed a new K&N stage 3 jet kit using the recommended settings which is DJ138 main jets, enlarged slide holes using the K&N drill bit, K&N needles 3rd clip from the top and fuel mixture screws out 2.5 turns. I also installed the DH160 pilot air jet screws (which leans out the bottom end) just because the stock ones were looking really rough.

I've got K&N individual pod filters and a Supertrapp 4 into 1 pipe. Is anyone else using this jet ket and what settings did you use? It seems to gurgle and hesitate at low range but once I get on the throttle a little, it smooths out quite a bit. I think it's a rich condition at low end.

BTW, this is my first ride this year and the first time ever I've been out for a ride in February in my 20 years of motorcycling. My previous earliest was when I was 17 and it was March 6, 1985.
Click to expand...
Do you still have the two floatbowl vent tubes/lines on? Try removing them to assist the float bowl venting. The jets will draw fuel easier. Also, have you tried turning the mixture screws IN or OUT a 1/2 turn from where they are now? This will help you determine if your problem is too rich or too lean. Test and see if these two easy changes help.
 
I'll try removing the tubes and moving the mixture screws in a 1/2 turn for starters. Due to the weather, I haven't had a chance and probably won't for a couple of weeks to really take it for a good ride.
 
I have the same bike same kit same filters but a V&H Supersport 4-1.

I had the same problem and it seemed to get a little worse once warmed up. My bike idled fine, but just off idle it sputtered and then was ok with a bit more throttle. I think it is a lean condition. I raised the needles 2 full notches and the problem went away. I raised them one notch first and it improved, but I had a flat spot around 3500 RPM. I raised them up one more notch and I have smooth throttle response throughout the whole RPM range.
 
Hey Pano; Do you remember what you fuel mixture screws were set at?
 
They are all slightly different. I will try to find the website I found this information on and post it. My old pc CRASHED and I lost all my saved tech sites.

I am doing this from memory

First have all carb fuel mixture screws at about stock settings which is about 2.5 turns out (I don't recall the exact factory setting)

Then adjust them individually from carb #1 to #4.

Start with carb one with the engine idling...turn the screw in GENTLY and slowly until the engine begins to bog...then back it out slowly...the RPMs with rise, reach a peak and begin to fall again. When the RPM's begin to go down, stop and turn the screw back in a quarter turn.

You do this for each carb...you may have to adjust the main idle adjust to bring idle back down to 1-1.5 RPMs between carb adjustments.

If the screws is backed out more than 5-6 turns I think you need to change the pilot jets to keep you adjustment between 3-5.

The change in RPM is very subtle, I had to do this several times. Again I am writing this from memory...Mine are all between 3-5 somewhere...one is backed out beyond the others probably close to 5.
 
WHEN YOU TURN IN THE IDLE SCREW IN DO NOT FORCE THEM...DO THIS GENTLY AND WHEN IT STOPS TURN IT NO FURTHER.
 
Pano, you sound happy with the way your bike is running now. What position did you put the needles at? What size mains? Can you roll the throttle on full from about 60 mph in top gear without excessive bogging? What do your plugs say?
CDNBandit has his needles set at the 3rd notch from the top and 138 main's. He seems happy with the way it's running except the lower rpm range, he's obviously still working at it. I'm just following both of your posts and want to see if you end up with the same jetting adjustments.
 
I started with the needles on the third notch from the top per the instructions. The bike sputtered off idle and seemed worse when warmed up. I raised the needles one notch and the sputtering was gone but I had a small flat spot at about 3500 RPM. I raised the needles one notch again and the throttle is smooth throughout the whole range.

I used the D138 mains that came with the kit, but later put 140's in. I assumed the D138 corrosponded to 138. I did not really notice a difference between the D138 and the 140's. I never touched the pilot jets.

I need to let the bike warm up a few minutes for it to run smooth when cold. I do get a little exhaust cough when it is warmed up and the choke is on. If I rev it up at idle it will drop a little below idle and come back up. I believe this is an indication of running a little rich. The plugs have color but are not dark.

I don't recall any bogging doing roll ons in 2nd or fourth gear. I will try a 5th gear roll on at various speeds and let you know. It may rain here tomorrow but Wednesday looks like it will be nice out.

This was my first time jetting so it is probably not 100% but is seems decent.
 
pano, you're saying the Dynojet kit came with a choice of 138 and 140 mains and you now have the 140 Dynojet mains in?
Did you do a good vacuum sinc'? That may be the cause of your slight drop in rpm's when you rev' it.
 
The 138's came with the kit. I purchased 140's to see how they would work. I assumed the Mikuni 140's were slightly larger than the Dynojet 138's.

I have a mercury type sinc tool and re-sinced the carbs after any adjustments.
 
pano said:
The 138's came with the kit. I purchased 140's to see how they would work. I assumed the Mikuni 140's were slightly larger than the Dynojet 138's.

I have a mercury type sinc tool and re-sinced the carbs after any adjustments.
Click to expand...
Why did you go with Mikuni main jets? Did'nt Dynojet give you a choice of 2 sizes of main jets? I've always had good luck with the jet kits and never had to mix in Mikuni jets to get good results.
As for how Mikuni and Dynojet size their jets, I don't really know. I know that Mikuni's graduate in 2.5 increments such as 137.5, 140...,and DJ are a little different such as 138, 142...I have seen many posts here that claim Mikuni and DJ use very different numbers for roughly the same size main jet. Example: Mikuni 130 main is about the same size as a 160 DJ?
I've never asked any of those posters where they got their info. I should call Dynojet and ask them. It's never mattered to me because I've never had to mix jets. If you could'nt tell any difference between a 138 DJ and a 140 Mikuni jet, then I would think they are similar in size.
If you did'nt like the 138 in your kit, why did you go with the 140 Mikuni? Did'nt DJ give you a 142 or ? as an alternate jet?
 
The Dynojet kit came with 2 different sizes for the mains. The D138's for the individual pod filters and another size for use with the stock airbox with a K/N replacement filter. My set up uses the individual filters.

I was experimenting when I changed to the 140's...I read a lot of different web articles on jetting and was trying to find out where the mains gave me the symptom of being too large.
The larges jet that came with the kit was the D138...At the time I figured I would step it to 140 rather than to a D142 (again I assumed the Mikuni 140 was larger than the D138 and smaller than the D142)
 
The other size DJ jet that came with the stage 3 was the DJ132. They recommend going with that one if you were running stock exhaust and teh DJ138 with a aftermarket high flowing exhaust.
 
CDNBandit said:
The other size DJ jet that came with the stage 3 was the DJ132. They recommend going with that one if you were running stock exhaust and teh DJ138 with a aftermarket high flowing exhaust.
Click to expand...

OK. They're being kind of tight with the main jets. Some Dynojet kits give you a choice of 2 mains to use with individual filters and a 4-1 pipe.
 
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