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GS1100ED Gurus

mcycle-nut

mcycle-nut

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
Charter Member
Ok, here's a couple of questions for all you GS1100ED gurus out there. What is the stock air filter supposed to look like? The one that's on my bike now looks very K&N like. It is a long tapered unit, looking like an oversized pod unit. There are no markings on it. The stock air inlet holes for the airbox look pitufully small for such a large engine. Someone has drilled four 5/8" holes in the left had side of the airbox. Would the bike run better with the airbox lid off? Would I have to rejet if I did this? Right now the plugs look fine. The carbs have 112.5 mains and the needles are in the middle groove with one small washer underneath the clip. The bike has stock exhaust.

Another question. How is the float supposed to be held on the sending unit in the fuel tank? I found the float just banging around by itself, and when I removed the assembly, I found a spade type wire connector rammed onto the end of float rod. After removing the connector, I found the end of the rod was crimped, which looked factory. The hole in the float is huge, so I'm assuming it was an interferance fit before, and the crimmping held the float on. With the spade connector fitting, I assume the float was spinning on the rod, making the hole in the float bigger, correct?

Ahh, the joys of used bikes. ](*,) I forgot how much FUN they are to work on, :roll: as I it's been YEARS since I rebuilt my 750, and my wife's Virago has always been in good shape.
 
I was told by a trusted mechanic that if the carbs and exhaust are all stock, that it would be best to run with the airbox lid on. I'll have to get a picture of the airfilter for you. Almost doesn't sound stock though.
You got the stock exhaust??
The black pipes??
Gotta love the look of the 83 with blacked out engine and exhaust. :twisted:
 
The float (from my 82) has the rod passing all the way through with one of those "split" washers holding it in place. Washer has a few slits running out from the inside diameter and then it's a push fit over the rod (that make sense?). The rod also has a bend in it that slips into a groove on one side of the float to keep it from spinning around. Let me know if that's too unclear and I can post a pic.
The stock air filter is a cylinder (not cone shaped). Opening on one end surrounded by a foam "washer". And if I remember right there a metal handle looking thing on the other end (looks a bit like a slightly stretched out "M" from the side) that slides into a metal piece in the back of the airbox to hold it in place.
 
Float repair

Float repair

I had the same problem. I ended up having to wrap bare copper wire around the float and arm to secure them together, and then silver soldering the wire together. I looked into a new unit and they wanted $100.00. After one year of having fuel in the tank, I took the unit out to examine the condition of my repair, and it looks like I just did it last week.
 
K & N makes an air filter, that fits in the stock air box. It is shaped just like the stock filter, but it's made to be washed out, re oiled, & re used.
 
My 1100 has one of those giant pod filter things in it too, it's a paper element though, and is stock. Slopoke has one that's K&N and is probably identical except for the element material. Were you expecting a flat foam air filter?

Cheers, Steve
 
Taking the lid off the stock airbox will increase the air intake noticeably.
You will run lean if you don't re-jet.
 
pjackson said:
The float (from my 82) has the rod passing all the way through with one of those "split" washers holding it in place. Washer has a few slits running out from the inside diameter and then it's a push fit over the rod (that make sense?). The rod also has a bend in it that slips into a groove on one side of the float to keep it from spinning around. Let me know if that's too unclear and I can post a pic.
The stock air filter is a cylinder (not cone shaped). Opening on one end surrounded by a foam "washer". And if I remember right there a metal handle looking thing on the other end (looks a bit like a slightly stretched out "M" from the side) that slides into a metal piece in the back of the airbox to hold it in place.
Click to expand...

I'm not quite sure I know what you mean by the split washer affair. A picture would be most helpful. Thanks. :D
 
srivett said:
Were you expecting a flat foam air filter?

Cheers, Steve
Click to expand...

I really didn't know what to expect, but I didn't expect to see something that looked like a pleatted K&N tapered filter! 8O
 
srivett said:
My 1100 has one of those giant pod filter things in it too, it's a paper element though, and is stock. Slopoke has one that's K&N and is probably identical except for the element material. Were you expecting a flat foam air filter?

Cheers, Steve
Click to expand...
Sounds stock K&N rplacement to me. i found no diference in performance without air filter box and with the K&N The smaller bikes seem to have a mixture problem when messing with air cleaners and filter boxes.. Just nicer to check battery. to me. If plugs are a nice color leave the setup alone. My srock ED carbs do not have ajustable needles though. Ill bet there is some sort of jet kit in the carbs.
 
mcycle-nut said:
pjackson said:
The float (from my 82) has the rod passing all the way through with one of those "split" washers holding it in place. Washer has a few slits running out from the inside diameter and then it's a push fit over the rod (that make sense?). The rod also has a bend in it that slips into a groove on one side of the float to keep it from spinning around. Let me know if that's too unclear and I can post a pic.
The stock air filter is a cylinder (not cone shaped). Opening on one end surrounded by a foam "washer". And if I remember right there a metal handle looking thing on the other end (looks a bit like a slightly stretched out "M" from the side) that slides into a metal piece in the back of the airbox to hold it in place.
Click to expand...

I'm not quite sure I know what you mean by the split washer affair. A picture would be most helpful. Thanks. :D
Click to expand...

I'll put up a pic this evening. I know I've seen these "split washer" things used in a number of other applications but can't for the life of me remember one now :? .
 
Here's the pic of how the float is kept on the rod. It's not one of the split washer thingys (I swear they exist though :) ).
Anyway the washer is kept on by the crimp on the end of the rod. The washer is free to spin.


float1.jpg


Here's a shot of the backside showing how the bend in the rod keeps the float in place.
float2.jpg
 
Thanks, Pete! I had a feeling it was supposed to look something like that. However, the float I have has a hole in it the size of the washer! I guess I'll have to be creative and do something like Craig has done. It's either that or spend money! 8O
 
slopoke said:
[My srock ED carbs do not have ajustable needles though. Ill bet there is some sort of jet kit in the carbs.
Click to expand...

Who knows? :-k It may just be the difference between an American and Canadian model. The jet needle is a 5D59, whereas according to Mr. Haynes, the US model is supposed to have a 5D58. Remember, the EPA went ape on bikes in the US, and the Canadian models weren't too affected. We still had carb adjustments (for a while), whereas you guys have long since had to drill out things to get to adjustment screws.
 
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