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GS1150 - Which Way To Put In Oval Nuts

londonboards

londonboards

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Past Site Supporter
Listen - I know this is real simple but the workshop manuals are no help - something like "put engine back into frame"!

You are supposed to remember how everything fits. Except these nuts fell out so I didn't know how they were fitted in the first place.

P1120729.jpg


Do you put the long part facing down like this (pic. 1):

P1120734.jpg


Or do they go up into the opening like this (pic. 2):

P1120738.jpg


I'm mocking this up on another set up crankcase just to show what I mean.

It's either pic. 1 or pic.2.

Greetings
 
The reality is either way. The purpose of the long "nut" is to keep the nut from turning when you tighten it up. I personally like to be able to hold the long end when lining it up with the bolt. Makes it much easier to install. #2 is more "out of sight" but you wont see the nut either way. If you look at the oxidation line on yours you'll see that it was originally mounted like picture #1.
 
Make sure you use the right bolts Richard Too long and they'll puncture the crankcase.

edit: those bolts look ok but worth checking - there's a thread on here by somebody who made the mistake.
 
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Some models have different lengths from left and right sides while others use the same length. Not sure in your case. I tried to look it up but the images on the micro fiche are so bad that you can't make out the numbers.
 
JTGS850GL said:
The reality is either way. The purpose of the long "nut" is to keep the nut from turning when you tighten it up. I personally like to be able to hold the long end when lining it up with the bolt. Makes it much easier to install. #2 is more "out of sight" but you wont see the nut either way. If you look at the oxidation line on yours you'll see that it was originally mounted like picture #1.
Click to expand...

Agreed. They'll have the same holding power either way and won't spin when you tighten them. #1 will be easier to hold onto, and they are fiddly to get the bolt started on the threads of the oval nut. That's how mine are.
 
if you fit them the RIGHT way, pic 2. the pointy end sits in the little recess in the crankcase, (seen in 1st pic.) the thread in the nut then lines up with the bolt hole, making catching the bolt a breeze. not fiddly at all.
 
All 6 of the GS's I've owned have had them installed as shown in picture #2.
 
You were supposed to have attended the Suzuki Technician's course back in nineteen seventy something.

"Teats go up" is the saying. Otherwise they would have used a regular nut. If you think that is bad, the funky castileated nuts Suzuki used in the '90s and oughts required that you buy an expensive as hell specialty socket.
 
hampshire - yes I saw that thread which was why I thought I should ask about this. You never really know do you? Both my bolts are the same length and I have tested that they don't get too close to the case, even though there are no case protectors in place either (well not on a faired GS1150 / GSX1100 for sure!).

Greetings
 
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Age - thanks. I should have just asked you in the first place! Don't want to bother you all the time.

Greetings
 
Never heard the "teats go up" before. I put them in with the points down as they make it easier to hold the nut..and you cant see them standing at the bike so what would it matter really as long as they are pre tested and are sure to not hit the engine cases...thats the most important thing.
 
Agemax said:
if you fit them the RIGHT way, pic 2. the pointy end sits in the little recess in the crankcase, (seen in 1st pic.) the thread in the nut then lines up with the bolt hole, making catching the bolt a breeze. not fiddly at all.
Click to expand...

In all these years, I've never even tried that. Sheesh!

It's an interesting topic, because for most of us, that fastener has to come out any time we remove the case guards -- so for changing out a stator, or a starter clutch, etcetera, out it comes, and that annoying little b@#$ falls on the ground, reminding you of what a PITA awaits upon reassembly...
 
chuck hahn said:
Never heard the "teats go up" before. I put them in with the points down as they make it easier to hold the nut..and you cant see them standing at the bike so what would it matter really as long as they are pre tested and are sure to not hit the engine cases...thats the most important thing.
Click to expand...

You are 100% correct the tab goes down to hold it in place for installation.
You would have to show me in a book where it tells you to install them up before I would believe it. But I don't think it matters either way. After you have fought with it long enough install them down and you will see what Chuck and I are talking about. I can see by the marking on your bolts the were installed down


.
 
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This is worse than an oil or tire thread. :rolleyes: It does not matter one little tiny bit which way you install those. What DOES matter is that you put the correct length bolt into them so as to NOT destroy the engine case. :eek:
As a matter of fact, most of my bikes that use those don't even have them anymore with zero ill effects. :D
 
GSX1000E said:
This is worse than an oil or tire thread. :rolleyes: It does not matter one little tiny bit which way you install those. What DOES matter is that you put the correct length bolt into them so as to NOT destroy the engine case. :eek:
As a matter of fact, most of my bikes that use those don't even have them anymore with zero ill effects. :D
Click to expand...

Yep you can put a regular nut or even a nilock nut but that bolt that at does matter big time you put the wrong size bolt in there and your screwed. Lol I made a pun
 
robertbarr said:
It's an interesting topic, because for most of us, that fastener has to come out any time we remove the case guards -- so for changing out a stator, or a starter clutch, etcetera, out it comes, and that annoying little b@#$ falls on the ground, reminding you of what a PITA awaits upon reassembly...
Click to expand...

One of mine, a PO made one up - just a nut with a long tab welded on, a reasonable bit longer than the stupidly short bit the factory nut has. Makes that one a breeze to install. The bolt length trap caught me out once and I stopped when I heard a slight crack. A serious flushing and de-greasing of the cavity and smear of JB Weld and no oil ever appeared out of there in 50K+ miles.
 
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