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GS750 Specs

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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CAN'T FIND MY MANUAL!!
1981 GS750 (16V)

I am in the middle of replacing my head gasket, and I can't remember torqe specs/pattern for tightening it down. Any help here?


Also, what is the best way to get the carbs on/off, I seem to thrash my rubber boots. Is there a sekrit magik switch that you are all holding back from me?
 
Here's what my Clymer manual says. I assume that it starts at the back of the engine on the #4 cylinder side.

MY MANUAL SAYS THE SEQUENCE IS CAST IN THE HEAD, CLOSE TO EACH NUT.


9 5 1 3 7 11

10 8 4 2 6 12

Cylinder head bolt (10mm) torque is 0.7-1.1 mkg or 5-8 ft lbs.

Cylinder head nut torque is 3.5-4.0 mkg or 25.5-29 ft lbs.

Can't help with the carbs.

Terry
 
That torquing sequence looks correct to me. You always start in the center and work your way outward. Torque the nuts uniformly, a little at a time in a cycle. Then torque the 10mm bolts.
 
Carbs

Carbs

I can tell you one thing about the carburators on that bike. I have a GS750 that originally had individual pod filters on it. I removed the carbs (and re-installed them) several times.

Basically the drill I used went like this: Take the filters off. Disconnect the choke cable if it has one (from the choke slider bar), pull the fuel line and vacuum hose off from the petcock (make sure the petcock is in either "REServe" or "ON" NOT "PRIme" or you will spew gas all over the place. Completely loosen the carburator manifold boots (the ones that attach the carb bank to the engine). After you make sure that all of the connections are clear, straddle the motorcycle and place one hand on either end of the bank of carbs and rock them back and forth (up and down actually, in a "twisting" motion) and pull outwards until they pop out of the intake manifolds... then rotate them to expose the throttle cable and disconnect that.

I had a GS450L model with crapped-up carbs too. To get those two carbs out, I had to unbolt the entire airbox, disconnect and remove the air intake boots and slide the box as far back in the frame as it would go... then do the steps above and practically force the carburators past everything to get them out. Finally, I ended up taking the box out completely to get the carbs back in. It was a real chore let me tell you.

This proceedure, or some variation thereof is posted elsewhere in this forum.. thanks go out to the original author.

Don't forget to spray a little WD40 on the boots to help slide the carbs back in during re-installation.

Clay
 
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