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GS850G - Fuel Upgrades

  • Thread starter Thread starter vicimus
  • Start date Start date
Well, I haven't been able to get them back on the bike yet. Hardware store run for bolts took much longer than I anticipated. Also, I had to go back for snap ring pliers.

So.. finally back working on them again.. and I've royally f'd up I think.

Drilling the first slide didn't go so well.. the hole is completely cocked. So much for eyeballing it.

Does anyone know if I'm completely screwed with that mistake? I notice the replacements go for $85, and they're a replacement for the OEM, not the originals. Am I into this for $85 or $340 to keep them the same? Can this run as is with a slightly crooked hole?
I dont think it will make a hugely noticeable difference, however, if you decide and others disagree, I HAVE a set of slides for your carbs id be willing to part with for MUCH less than $85 a shot ;)
 
TheCafeKid: I may have to take you up on that.. but I'd like to try out mine first to see if there are any noticeable issues.

Octain: Thanks for the help & encouragement!

Unfortunately, I'm into my 3rd carb and I've come across ANOTHER issue. Man, am I a pro at this or what?? Actually this time it's not my fault.. but I've got no idea how to proceed.

The PO snapped one of the float posts. I'm guessing he hit it too hard with the punch. It was half glued in there with something, and very rickety.

Anyone have an idea of how I could get that sucker re-attached & hold up to the fuel in there? I don't have any welding skills.. so that's not really an option.

broken_float_post.jpg

broken_float_post.jpg
 
Has anyone tried Hi-Temp Lab-metal for something like this? It's an epoxy that states it's resistant to gasoline. Bet my apartment will smell great after I've thrown a carb in the oven for an hour!

The other idea is to drill down the center of both sides and mount it on a copper post. It looks like the aluminum is very brittle though, so I'm not sure if that will cause even further damage.
 
I've never done it first hand but I heard on here that some have had success using JB weld on the bowl post.
 
I picked up some Permatex Cold Weld.. says it is impervious to gasoline and can withstand extreme temperature changes (up to 650 Fahrenheit.)

I've read of JB Weld not really holding up in this application, so I hope that this other one will work better.. I guess time will tell. I'll try it out tonight.
 
I picked up some Permatex Cold Weld.. says it is impervious to gasoline and can withstand extreme temperature changes (up to 650 Fahrenheit.)

I've read of JB Weld not really holding up in this application, so I hope that this other one will work better.. I guess time will tell. I'll try it out tonight.

Keep us posted!
Other than that how's it going with the carbs?
You're soaking em for at least 24 hours each arent ya?
 
I probably have a carb body if you need one already been dipped.....
 
For now I'm going to try the Cold Weld. I did it in a 2 step process. First, I attached the post and left it for a few hours to dry. Second, I scuffed up the edges a bit with a file and applied an outer coating that will hopefully stay in place. After 16 hours drying time, it should be good to go! Unfortunately it's raining outside, so it'll have to wait until tomorrow before I see if it will actually run!

broken_float_post_epoxy1.jpg


broken_float_post_epoxy2.jpg
 
Hi,

That looks pretty good. I hope it lasts. Keep us informed. This is a common problem with these old carbs.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
I agree with Basscliff, looks good. Carbs look clean too cept for that old gasket leftovers.
I used a curved prick and some WD40 to pick it out.
There again, keep us posted!
 
Well, I got the carbs back on the bike last night and she actually starts! Imagine my surprise. I was half waiting for something to blow up.

It starts right up, but idles a bit poorly and at low speeds/rpm it stutters pretty badly. I took it out on the highway for a short bit and it was fine there at higher rpm. Is this just a carb sync issue? The air screw? The air screw is 4 1/2 turns out as suggested in the stage 3 kit instructions. The pilot jet is still stock.

Unfortunately it was after dark when I finally had everything put back together, so I wasn't able to tinker any more. I'm planning on hooking up the synchronizer tomorrow (since it's raining today.)

Any ideas? If I've got time, I'll check out the charging system as well.. some of those wires are a bit gummed up.
 
Well, I got the carbs back on the bike last night and she actually starts! Imagine my surprise. I was half waiting for something to blow up.

It starts right up, but idles a bit poorly and at low speeds/rpm it stutters pretty badly. I took it out on the highway for a short bit and it was fine there at higher rpm. Is this just a carb sync issue? The air screw? The air screw is 4 1/2 turns out as suggested in the stage 3 kit instructions. The pilot jet is still stock.

Unfortunately it was after dark when I finally had everything put back together, so I wasn't able to tinker any more. I'm planning on hooking up the synchronizer tomorrow (since it's raining today.)

Any ideas? If I've got time, I'll check out the charging system as well.. some of those wires are a bit gummed up.
4.5 turns out?????!!! Thats the top end of adjustment..somehow I dont think the good folks at DynoJet would suggest that. Are you sure its not 2.5 turns out?? And either way, those are baseline suggestions for getting it going. You still need to adjust the screws per the highest idle method. That is, set the idle at factory spec (1000-1200rpm or there-abouts) and then screw the #1 screw in, and back it out slowly till you hear the idle rise to its highest point. Stop there, back it back in a 1/8 turn, and readjust the idle, and on to the next carb, repeat for the remaining. They wont all be the same likely, especially if you havent used vac gauges or merc sticks to dynamic sync. (which I would suggest, but if you've never done it, it can be a chore on the CV carbs. Best to have someone who's experienced lend a hand) And even if you HAVE synced, they still will likely not be the same turns in or out.

Glad its running though, but I think your pee-poor idle will have something to do with being very rich on the pilot. Might take a look at your plugs...
 
Ha! Weird. Check out the instructions here:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=157035

My kit did not include that first sheet, and at the bottom of the last sheet it states "4-1/2 turns" .. even though that first says 2 1/2 turns. I'll have to turn them back in again and try that.

I did a sync on them last year with vacuum gauges. I'm intending to do that again as soon as I can. I've no idea where I found the information originally (possibly this forum), but I'm going to aim for 11.25inHg on #1&4 and 10inHg on #2&3.
 
Well, the way it's currently set up.. 165 main jets.. larger holes in the slides.. corrected air jets and the air screws 4.5 turns out, here's what I get with the plugs:

black_plugs.jpg


Completely black.. I'm assuming that's coming from an overly rich pilot circuit, and that's why it stutters at lower rpm? Is that just an air screw issue?

I changed the air screws to 2.5 turns out and it seemed to idle a bit better. Unfortunately I wasn't able to take it out for a test ride yet.
 
THOSE ARE NOT PHILLIPS but JIS you need different tools to work on japanese fastners Phillips is a DIN standard...there's a thread and some posts around here somewhere......as for the brass jets small electricians screwdrivers work best....
 
Well, the way it's currently set up.. 165 main jets.. larger holes in the slides.. corrected air jets and the air screws 4.5 turns out, here's what I get with the plugs

Completely black.. I'm assuming that's coming from an overly rich pilot circuit, and that's why it stutters at lower rpm? Is that just an air screw issue?

I changed the air screws to 2.5 turns out and it seemed to idle a bit better. Unfortunately I wasn't able to take it out for a test ride yet.


How did ya end up with this project.
 
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