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gs850g problems...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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Anonymous

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hi all. relatively new to the forum (first posting) and new to biking, but i've been sopping up all the info on this site like a sponge. anyhow, my 1982 gs850g is giving me some problems, and i was hoping for some help.

1. my bike idles @ around 1100rpms when cold, up to 2000 when warm, and this weekend it got up to 3000 after heating up in slow slow traffic. someone posted that this is probably an air intake leak, but not sure how to check/fix it. i'm assuming that after i find the leak, i'll have to replace the o-ring or gasket, but i'm not sure where to get the part other than ordering an entire gasket set.

2. is the clutch supposed to be super stiff? i'm no weakling, but i have to hook my fingers around the lever and pull back with my whole body to get get it to move. any suggestions on remedying this (i replaced the cable this weekend, and there's some improvement, but it's still really stiff.

3. anyone know the part number for the speedo drive gear for my bike (or how to fix this? wd40 didn't work)? the speedo conked out, and after some inspection, it seems like the little male adapter which drives the speedo cable in the wheel doesn't turn.

thanks for all the help

-rez
 
The most common cause of a high idle as you describe is bad o-rings in the carb to head manifold or the manifold itself. Check for cracking on the manifolds. Start the motor, get it warm and using a fine mist spray bottle, spray some water mist on the manifolds. A leaking manifold or o-ring will draw in the water and you will hear the motor rpm's drop momentarily.
If you have o-rings, they usually wear out much more often than the manifolds.
This test usually finds the leak but is not a sure thing because it can be difficult to completely spray every part of the manifolds.
You should first try tightening all the clamps on the manifolds first, you may have one or more loose. I buy these parts at the Suzuki dealer.
As for your clutch cable, if it's lubed and routed correctly, then you probably need to inspect the clutch assembly. The cable MUST be routed exactly as Suzuki says or stiffness will happen. A Suzuki factory manual will show the exact routing. Make sure you lubed it good and give the cable 2-3 mm of slack at the lever. If the handlebars are different from stock, that can cause cable problems also.
 
If the clutch is real stiff it may be that someone installed HD springs, a change to OEM springs would help. For the air leak I would check all of the hoses and clamps on the carb and also the carb boots, make sure they are tight. . You can use alot of different things to check. I use 409 cleaner or windex it cleans up really good. Just spray all of the connections and when a change is noted you have found the problem. Orings can be had from a variety of sources, included your local dealer and you can also check on http://www.bikebandit.com you don't have to buy a gasket set.
 
thanks for the help! as soon as i get some daylight to work in, i'll check out what you both suggested.

one more question: what kind of lube would i use on a clutch cable? regular old grease?
 
rvahid said:
thanks for the help! as soon as i get some daylight to work in, i'll check out what you both suggested.

one more question: what kind of lube would i use on a clutch cable? regular old grease?
Click to expand...
There are several lubes out there that work. Make sure the can has a tube to help you get it in. Some makers sell cable lube, or chain and cable lube, etc. I think white lithium grease works good but is slow to get inside the cable sheath. I also use this on the cable ball ends. Some people just use 3 in 1 oil, but this is kind of thin and will drip out the other end of the cable for days if you put too much in. At least put the lithium grease on the ball ends and 3 in 1 inside the sheath. If you cannot find lithium grease, use a "medium body" lube of any brand. If the lube is too thin at the ball ends, you have little wear protection. Inside the sheath, it's OK to use a thinner lube.
 
I recommend that you replace the clutch cable with a new one. You can pick one up at a dealer for a reasonable price. A Motion Pro cable is just fine, and not very expensive. A dealer can order one for you.

You'll be surprised the difference a new clutch cable will make.

Nick
 
It was suggested to me that the problem (I have a similar issue with my 550) might be the rubber airbox boots. I'm told they are prone to cracking, so if you don't find the problem where they clamp to the carbs (as suggested above) you might look for a hidden crack in the boots.

I haven't checked mine yet (and have never changed them -- owned the bike since '89) but I won't be surprised if they're bad.

Good Luck!

Steve 8)
 
Leaking air filter to carb boots won't cause a high idle problem like rvahid describes. Only a leak between the carb and head can cause it.
 
KEITH KRAUSE said:
Leaking air filter to carb boots won't cause a high idle problem like rvahid describes. Only a leak between the carb and head can cause it.
Click to expand...

Well I'm not an expert in this area so I was merely forwarding on an opinion that was given to me when I reported a similar problem ... thanks for the clarification Keith!

The interesting thing is that my bike (and apparently rvahid's) begin idling higher after the bike has warmed up significantly ... I would have thought that the expansion associated with the heat would seal rather than open up small leaks.

I had a similar problem with the exhaust manifold on my old minivan ... the engine would "tick tick tick" on startup and up to operating temperature -- then it would go away until the next time the vehicle was cold-started. Took it to my mechanic suspecting lifter issues only to find out that when the header gaskets were replaced (before I bought it) one was put on incorrectly and left a small gap that imitated the lifter ticking noise. Once the engine heated up and everything expanded slightly, the gap sealed up and the engine ran quietly -- no tick.

Steve 8)
 
Planecrazy, I'm certainly not an expert either but I have learned a lot being around older bikes that have lots of repair problems. I did'nt want my above reply to sound like I was "correcting" you but I thought I should mention it so you won't waste your time thinking your problem is the filter boots. Cracking boots can still cause problems though. A slightly leaner mixture and unfiltered air are two.
 
My bikes idle would float up and down on it's own will. Turned out to be the idle screw was very loose. Fixed that and no more idle variance. You may want to juct check and make sure this isn't whats happening to you. The engine vibrations will make it float in and out as you ride if it is very loose as mine was.

I hope it is your issue because it is a very simple problem with an even easier fix.
 
thanks for all the advice, everyone. i'll let you know how it goes
 
Hoomgar said:
My bikes idle would float up and down on it's own will. Turned out to be the idle screw was very loose. Fixed that and no more idle variance. You may want to juct check and make sure this isn't whats happening to you. The engine vibrations will make it float in and out as you ride if it is very loose as mine was.

I hope it is your issue because it is a very simple problem with an even easier fix.
Click to expand...
Your idle screw for the whole bank of carbs should not loosen by itself.
It must have lost its spring. Check it out, it's supposed to be under spring tension.
 
Planecrazy, I believe the rubber manifolds expand as they heat up, this expands any cracks.
This is my understanding of two intake leaks and how they effect the mixture into the cylinder.
An intake leak between the filter and carb will simply allow more air flow into the carb and cylinder and will result in a leaner mixture and possibly a little higher than normal rpm.
An intake leak between the carb and head will create a loss of vacuum.
This loss of vacuum will make it harder for the jets to draw fuel. With the intake leak, too much air will enter the cylinder and not enough fuel. This lean mixture burns too easily and the rpm's are above normal for that throttle valve position.
A cold engine does not combust well, that's why we need the choke. When you cold start an engine with an intake leak, you may not notice it yet. You will need a little more choke than normal and it will take longer to warm up. The rpm's will seem normal because combustion is still inefficient. As the engine warms up however, the increasing heat vaporizes the mixture much better and combustion is much better. With the intake leak, more air enters and the mixture is too easily burned. The rpm's rise well above normal and in severe cases, pre-ignition can occur.
Some of us try to live with this by turning the idle down, but when you go to cold start it again, the idle needs to be turned back up to start the engine.
 
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