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Head gasket install question

  • Thread starter Thread starter sclark900
  • Start date Start date
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sclark900

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Greetings all. I'm rebuilding the top end of my 78 GS750. This is my first go at an engine rebuild and it's a learning process to be sure. Go easy on me!

She's all torn down, cylinders honed, valve seals replaced, and leak-down test done on valves to insure seal. All good to this point. Now comes reassembly (w/ OEM head gasket per everyone's encouragement). I'm having some trouble with prepping the surface of the engine block. There is some material left from the removed head gasket that I'm having a hard time removing. I obviously don't want to use any metal tools to scrape it off. I've tried using a plastic scraper (the kind used in removing wax from skis) to no avail. I also rubbed some mineral spirits on it to see if it would loosen up - still a no go. Any suggestions on how to get this stuff off? I'm actually not even sure what the material is since the head gasket is pressed metal (by the looks of it).

IMG_2214.jpg

On that note, other than following the torque procedures, any other suggestions on insuring a proper seal? Any gasket sealant (if any) recommended?
 
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I just did this. The only thing that worked for me was a very sharp wood chisel and a very steady hand. It will take forever.

Of course, I was lucky that almost all of my gasket stuck to the head, practically none on the case.

No sealer necessary. Lightly (emphasis on the "light" there) coat the new gasket with grease or oil and that will help immensely if/when you have to tear down the engine again.
 
Before you get it all put back together, ... did you also replace the base gasket?

Removing the head almost always disturbs the base gasket, even though you did not remove the cylinders.

It is HIGHLY recommended to only use OEM Suzuki gaskets here.

.
 
Subscribed. I'll be doing this before long and will be doing the base gasket and new rings while I'm in there.

I've heard of people CAREFULLY using a plastic Roloc type wheel on a drill at low speeds but I'd be a little concerned about doing that personally. If I have the block out of the bike where I could get down level with the block and watch how deep it's going, maybe. And then scrape off the remains with a stick or plastic scraper.

Curious how you make out with yours. I'll be watching. Good luck!
 
Steve said:
Before you get it all put back together, ... did you also replace the base gasket?

Removing the head almost always disturbs the base gasket, even though you did not remove the cylinders.
Click to expand...

Steve,
If you look at the pictures he posted it looks like he's already down to the block with the barrels off. I think he's just calling the base gasket a head gasket.:-\\\;)
 
The only way to get it off is with a razor. You can use a 'gasket remover' product but it only softens the top surface not the whole gasket, but it can help a 'bit'. Just go slow and careful. I hope you bought all the required o-rings as well.
 
I just did this to my bike and let me tell you there is no miracle solution I found, it was the worst gasket I have ever tried to remove. An aluminum roloc will scar and is too big to fit in the small spaces. In my case it was extremely tough to get a razor blade to the bottom layer without marking up the surface.

I tried many various chemicals and even acids wouldn't soften it up.

My best suggestion is to remove the pistons (much easier to work with and gives you chance to clean em up and inspect) and get as much as you can removed with a scraper or razor. For the remainder get a couple of scotch bright pads, a couple cans of carb cleaner and work it away with your fingers and cleaner. Beer also makes this process easier and more tolerable. Oh and I probably don't have to tell you this but just in case, put some rags in the crank case to stop the debris from falling in.

I wasted so much time messing around with various chemicals and scrapers to avoid doing it this way but when I just got in the zone it really only took about an hour and I was left with a perfect surface.

Good luck.
 
Had it easy....had to disassemble the entire case....to change the chain sprocket shaft---no nut threads!

I used, a razor to get the big chucks off, fine sand paper, and hit it with the bead blaster. I did plug all of the ports to keep the beads out! Then, I washed the case in solvent a few times, rinsed with water and blew out all of the crevasses a few times. Also hit it with some paint.

The bottom of the case didn't go into the bead blast cabinet, since I could not "easily" get the shift drum cage bearing out. That one I just used the razor and fine sand paper. Then washed and rinsed like hell.
 

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Triton said:
...and hit it with the bead blaster.
Click to expand...

Looks great! What media did you use, glass beads? I figured they would mar up the surface, when I've bead blasted (with glass, it leaves a "matte" or satin finish, whereas the block and barrel surfaces are smoother and shiny. Or did you just blast down a bit and scrape the rest?
 
http://www.tptools.com/Speed-Bead-Abrasive,352.html?b=d*8019

I did most of the clean-up with a razor (big stuff); fine sand paper (most of the tough stuff); the media to finish the job! However, other parts I used solvent, media and skipped the sand paper part.

Have used a lot of media over the years....this is my favorite. Unfortunately,it is a tad pricey.

Also did the oil pan. Just used solvent to get grease off and the media did the rest!
 

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