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Help! New stator and still no charge.

  • Thread starter Thread starter artbone
  • Start date Start date
A

artbone

Guest
Today I changed out my battery, R/R, and stator and I still don't get any charge. I bought this bike in LA a few months ago and rode it back to SF the same day. It hasn't been ridden since. I charged up the batt and cranked it. It seemed fine so I rode it about 20 miles and everything was good. Then this morning the batt was dead. I bought a new batt. and, since I had bought a new stator and R/R, I changed out the R/R.

Still no charge.

Then I changed out the stator. Still no charge.

The only thing I've changed on the wiring is eliminating the light green wire that runs from one leg of the stator up to the handlebar switch and back before it goes into the R/R. I don't know what that does but it just seems to be a loop. I had the 3 wires from the stator going to the 3 wires on the R/R. then the red wire from the R/R goes to the battery. The black wire is grounded.

Any ideas?

Art
 
What is your AC voltage across the various stator phases? Where is the R/R ground attached? What kind of bike? What brand and model of R/R? How are you checking for charging voltage?
 
Nessism said:
What is your AC voltage across the various stator phases? Where is the R/R ground attached? What kind of bike? What brand and model of R/R? How are you checking for charging voltage?
Click to expand...

It's an '83 GS 1100E. The stator is from Rick's but I don't know the brand of the R/R. The R/R ground is attached to the plate the solonoid is mounted and it has continuity with the neg on the batt. I haven't checked the AC voltage yet.
 
artbone said:
I bought a new batt. and, since I had bought a new stator and R/R, I changed out the R/R.

Still no charge.

Then I changed out the stator. Still no charge.

...

Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Only that you need to stop changing things and start taking some measurements.


artbone said:
I haven't checked the AC voltage yet.
Click to expand...
One of the basic tests that is necessary for troubleshooting a charging system.


Take a look at Nessism's signature:
Nessism said:
To measure is to know.
Click to expand...

.
 
Steve said:
Only that you need to stop changing things and start taking some measurements.



One of the basic tests that is necessary for troubleshooting a charging system.


Take a look at Nessism's signature:


.
Click to expand...
Ihad the same problem and replaced the same components.finaly an electrician found a shortxat my headlamp on off switch.
 
Grounding to that plate could be the problem. Your R/R ground needs to go to a solid frame point or the battery itself.

Oh, and get out your meter can check voltage at the stator, and advise how you are checking charging voltage. Are you reving up the engine to 5000 rpm when you check for charging?
 
Nessism said:
Grounding to that plate could be the problem. Your R/R ground needs to go to a solid frame point or the battery itself.

Oh, and get out your meter can check voltage at the stator, and advise how you are checking charging voltage. Are you reving up the engine to 5000 rpm when you check for charging?
Click to expand...

I checked and there is continuity between the plate the R/R wire is connected to and neg on the batt. I disconnected everything and checked AC between poles of the stator and it was 63. When I hooked up the R/R it only had about 9 V max. Hooked up the old R/R and got the same result.

The old stator was brown and crispy. The bike was ridden 500 miles in one trip 4 months ago with no problems. It's been parked since.

Also, I did away with the green wire from one leg of the stator that goes up to the r. handlebar switch and comes back as a white and red wire to hook to the R/R. I couldn't figure out what it does. It isn't attached to anything.
 
63 volts AC is not a good result for a new stator. I think it should be more like 75 volts.

Regardless of your continuity test, it's not good to ground to that plate. That plate is rubber mounted, and the ground path is through some tiny tubular steel spacers. NOT GOOD.

As for your wiring, you need to wire the stator directly into the R/R. Bypass the harness entirely.
 
Nessism said:
63 volts AC is not a good result for a new stator. I think it should be more like 75 volts.

Regardless of your continuity test, it's not good to ground to that plate. That plate is rubber mounted, and the ground path is through some tiny tubular steel spacers. NOT GOOD.

As for your wiring, you need to wire the stator directly into the R/R. Bypass the harness entirely.
Click to expand...

I went back and tested the stator output at 5K. It was over 80. Then hooked up the R/R and tested it at the red wire coming out. The old R/R was 130 V. The new one was less than 10V. Both R/Rs were grounded to the batt.

Sounds like a bad R/R?

Oh and thanks for your help. I'm pulling my hair out on this. I'm all loaded up for a 4000 mile trip and can't get out of town.
 
artbone said:
I went back and tested the stator output at 5K. It was over 80. Then hooked up the R/R and tested it at the red wire coming out. The old R/R was 130 V. The new one was less than 10V. Both R/Rs were grounded to the batt.

Sounds like a bad R/R?

Oh and thanks for your help. I'm pulling my hair out on this. I'm all loaded up for a 4000 mile trip and can't get out of town.
Click to expand...

I'm in San Fran where I can probably get any R/R I want. Should I get another type of R/R? I've got an '83 Yamaha Vision and I just bought a MOSFAT(?) regulator for it on ebay. Supposedly it gives a higher charge at low speed and doesn't heat up as much. I heard about it on the Vision forum and ordered one since I need one anyway.
 
Sounds like your "unknown" R/R is no good- just get a decent replacement and wire it up per Basscliff's or duaneage's instructions.

Try this R/R- genuine Shindengen, $20 in Oregon
ebay item # 250772745689
 
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