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high rpm miss

  • Thread starter Thread starter VaMike
  • Start date Start date
V

VaMike

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Hi, I'm a new GS Resources member. I've enjoyed and benefited from reading through a bunch of forum stuff as I resurrected a '77 GS 400 over the last couple of months. So, now I could use some help. Here's the back story.

GS 400 sat for ~ 15 years and ended up in my basement a few years ago. This year I decided to get it on the road. I tore the bike down and got rid of the WindJammer. I cleaned the carbs and put in new seals. I went over all the wiring and replaced suspect connectors. I managed to get the front brake working (master cylinder was frozen), I replaced the brake lines, banjo connectors, pads, piston seals. I replaced the fork seals and fluid. I replaced the fuel line to the carbs and the vacuum line. I cleaned up and painted the frame, tank and tail. I took the valve cover off to check the valve clearance, but I didn't have the right feeler and didn't get one yet. I put everything back together and put in a new battery and plugs. I adjusted the points and statically adjusted the timing. I set the air screws to 1.25 turns open. The bike started right up. I adjusted the idle to 1,200rpm.

The problem is I have a miss at high rpm. Here's the deal. I hooked up the timing light. Set the left timing at 1,200rpm. Checked the left timing at >3,600rpm. I switched the timing light to the right cylinder and set the timing at 1,200rpm. Then I went to set the timing at >3,600rpm and found what I had been hearing, the tach on the timing light was steady at low rpm, then jumped around at high rpm and I could see the same thing, of course, with the timing light (the left doesn't behave like this, nice steady tach reading). But, I could finish checking and adjusting the timing on the right.

So, what I know is that there is occasionally no current in the plug wire at high rpm when there should be current. I checked the wiring to the coil, and checked the voltage at the coil, which was 11 V (same for the left coil). I checked the coil resistance, which was 2 Ohms on each coil. I tried to clean off and check the condensers as described in the Clymer manual, but, without much luck, so I don't know that they are good. I filed the points and readjusted the points and timing which made no difference. Since I had to file the heck out of the points and was having this problem I decided to spring for a NOS set of points and NGK plugs for $20. I put in the new points, adjusted, no improvement. I pulled the plug and checked the spark as I opened the points. The spark looked good to me, but, I already new I'd see something since there is no low rpm miss. I removed the plug wire caps, clipped off 1/8" of wire and screwed the caps back on, no improvement. So, all I can think of is a bad condenser or bad plug wire. Am I wrong in only thinking about the right ignition system? Should I also be thinking about the right carb?

I'll really appreciate any help. I'm having fun riding the beautiful back roads of VA, but, it would be a lot more fun without the miss. By the way the compression in the left cylinder is 115psi in the right 110psi. I'll post a photo soon in case anyone wants to check out the mighty twin.

Mike

P.S. I should mention that the air box lid was missing, so, I fabricated one out of an aluminum for sale sign and some weather stripping.
 
Last edited:
mike,

it does more than likely seem like an ignition problem as it happens at high rpm. This could be in the module itself where the points connect. Like a distributor on a car, the higher the rpm the more wobble you can get if there is something amiss. Coils are probably OK, plugs are OK, check there.......
 
Colorado85GS550,
Thanks for the reply and the suggestion. When I adjusted the timing (several times now), I have to loosen the points plate to adjust the left timing. If I loosen the screws holding the plate too much, the plate rattles a bit. However, I can feel that the plate is secure when I tighten the screws. The wires from the points look good and I've secured the connections to the points when making adjustments and replacing the points. So ...?
 
Hi, I'm a new GS Resources member....
Welcome to the GSR!
I took the valve cover off to check the valve clearance, but I didn't have the right feeler and didn't get one yet.
You really should get a gauge and check them.

So, what I know is that there is occasionally no current in the plug wire at high rpm when there should be current. I checked the wiring to the coil, and checked the voltage at the coil, which was 11 V (same for the left coil). I checked the coil resistance, which was 2 Ohms on each coil. I tried to clean off and check the condensers as described in the Clymer manual, but, without much luck, so I don't know that they are good.
You have checked the primary side of the coils, but have you checked the secondary coil resistance (5-6K?) , or the resistance of the plug caps (5K) ?

*** swap coils and (or) condensers and see if the problem follows the replacement***
 
rustybronco,

thanks, I haven't checked the secondary resistance if that means the resistance between the connector in the plug cap and the positive lead of the coil. What is the difference between the two resistances you are talking about?

What's a good source for a valve feeler gauge?
 
The listed value of 5-6k is "my guess" for the resistance of the coil secondary and the plug wire, less the plug cap.

the 5K value is for the plug cap by itself.

I bought my feeler gauges of the cornwell tool man., you might try any auto parts store.
 
O.K., sounds good. I wasn't sure how to test the wire, the wire connection to the coil, and the plug cap. I guess this will do it. I have a spare Bosch 7mm coil wire (from my '79 VW camper) that is long enough to replace both plug wires, but, I didn't want to pull the plug wires from the coils if the wires are not the problem.
 
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