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How long do swingarm bearings last?

  • Thread starter Thread starter crc1214
  • Start date Start date
C

crc1214

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How long do swingarm bearings last?

And what are some common symptoms that are observed when they are starting to go bad?

Thanks.
 
well it varies widely Dependant on riding conditions, riding style, and most important, the type and size of bearing in question.
Suzuki used two different types of bearings in the GS's depending on whether the bike is shaft or chain drive.
the chain driven bikes use needle bearings, they work ok but lack any ability to be adjusted.
ridden on smooth roads in dry weather only they can last a very long time.
ridden on rough roads in the rain, or even worse on roads in the winter that have been salted, and they can fail in a pretty short time.

the shaft driven bikes (at least the 850 up bikes) use tapered roller bearings, much stronger than needle bearings, and adjustable.
the tapered bearings are also easy to remove and clean and repack, making it a reasonably easy job to service them on a regular basis, (IE: getting ready for spring service) so the tapered bearing can last much longer.
not maintained and they fail just as fast as needle bearings.

symptoms of bad swing arm bearings.
a twitcheness when suddenly going on power or off throttle, also a feeling or resistance to turning as you lean into a turn.
the best thing to do if you suspect your swing arm bearings are bad, is to put the bike on the center stand take the shocks loose and lift and push the swing arm from side to side checking for any play.
make sure to watch the wheel to make sure any play is not in the wheel bearings.
 
I normally don't argue with Leon but on the needle bearing in the swingarm I'm going disagree. If the swingarm bolt is torqued correctly and the seals are good, the swing arm bearings will last a long, long time. Mine lasted over 100,000 miles before I changed them and they were not in bad shape then. I did pull the swing arm off at about 50K miles and re-lube them but that was all. For a strictly axial load they are the best you can use. I imagine the shaft drive bikes use tapered bearing because of the additional forces from the shaft.

If you do have any doubts on the condition of your swingarm bearings, then change them. Don't ruin the pivot bolt or, worse yet, the swingarm itself.

I suggest doing what Leon said but maybe going a little further and pulling off the swingarm and actually inspecting the bearings to insure they are not dry and worn.


Hap
 
bearings

bearings

I got to agree with Hap cause Leon is rubbing our noses in the hole chain versus drive shaft thing :roll: come on leon admit it!!!
 
Re: bearings

Re: bearings

Gee-s-is said:
I got to agree with Hap cause Leon is rubbing our noses in the hole chain versus drive shaft thing :roll: come on leon admit it!!!
Click to expand...

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:



That's right!!!! He's trying to give us the shaft!!!!

Hap :wink:
 
Re: bearings

Re: bearings

Gee-s-is said:
I got to agree with Hap cause Leon is rubbing our noses in the hole chain versus drive shaft thing :roll: come on leon admit it!!!
Click to expand...

admit it, you are jelous that I can just loosen the lock nuts back out the adjusters and slide my swing arm bearings right out for cleaning and repacking!!!!

SHAFTIES RULE!!!!!!

then again, you Suzuki chainies don't have it as bad as the honda folks from the late 70's/ early 80's who have to deal with plastic bushings!!!
 
shaft

shaft

you only had to do the plastic bushings once cause only a moron didn't covert to bronze or brass bushing kits from K&L & Hap Jones
 
I have the originals in mine (78 GS1000), I think I greased them years ago, but they are still fine. I ride in all weather, gear on the bike, rough roads etc, but no salted roads.
 
Thanks for the responses guys. My bike is a 78 550E, approx. 28,000 miles, and it uses the needle bearings. I actually took my mag light and shined it through one side of the swingarm and looked through the other side, and from what I could tell everything is allright. I also took my shocks off and checked for any play in the swingarm. No play, no notchiness either. I'm going to shoot some wheel bearing grease up in there and put everything back together.

I did notice one thing.......... if I torque the swingarm nut to the Suzuki spec (I think about 55 ft lbs), then moving the swingarm up and down requires a bit more force. It's not a notchy feeling or anything, just harder to push up and down.

In my clymer manual, however, it gives a range for the torque spec (something like 36 - 58 ft lbs.) I find if I tighten it only to around 36 ft lbs., I can swing the swingarm up and down with much more ease.

Should I tighten it to the Suzuki spec, or leave it at the lower end of the Clymer manual spec? Any worries if it's a bit on the loose side? It just seems to move much more freely, which I would imagine would translate to better handling.

Thanks,
 
torque to the suzuki specs and slowly back off till the binding is minimal.
 
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