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How to keep from oxidizing

  • Thread starter Thread starter crazy canuck
  • Start date Start date
C

crazy canuck

Guest
I see some great looking engines as a result of being soda or sand blasted. I'm thinking of doing this over the winter to a couple of engines. I was wondering if any of you guys who had this done used any kind of a clear coat to keep the aluminum from oxidizing. I'm assuming if there is a product out there it has to withstand some high temps.Can anyone suggest a good product to seal the new finish after media blasting and could it be used on engine covers as well as head,jugs and base?
 
Oxidation.

Oxidation.

I've done a lot of research to find a suitable coating for the aluminum parts that I polish and have yet to find anything. I don't know what Suzuki used in the past, but it was probably the best available and yet it still got pretty funky after a while. The best thing to do is apply some metal polish like Mothers and do a light buffing. Since it has a petroleum base, it leaves a light coating.......at least that's what I do.
 
I had my engine soda blasted ('79 GS1000S) recently .
Some of the alloy was "discoloured" and made the whole engine look like $hit . I was quite disapointed . I was expecting a "shiny" , even finish . It was VERY clean however . A following top end build revealed no "grit" inside the engine ( except around the points , because I didnt tape that bit ) . It didn't damage any seals or gaskets . I had my carbs done as well . In ONE bit . No grit in there either . I just taped all the openings with masking tape .

I painted it with VHT and AM happy with that .

I bead blasted my forks and got a good finish that I dont treat at all . I did them 4 years ago but they still look pretty good . Dull , CLEAN finish .

Of the two , i think I like the bead blasted finish better but it's much harder to keep this grit out . I be stripping the engine after , for sure .

I'd consider the paint though , following soda blast , rather than a clear .

Be care full though . Once you flash these engines up , you'll want to put them in flash bikes . And then , you'll want another ,,,,,,,,,,,,, and so the addiction begins .......................

Cheers , Simon (addict) . :o
 
crazy canuck said:
I see some great looking engines as a result of being soda or sand blasted. I'm thinking of doing this over the winter to a couple of engines. I was wondering if any of you guys who had this done used any kind of a clear coat to keep the aluminum from oxidizing. I'm assuming if there is a product out there it has to withstand some high temps.Can anyone suggest a good product to seal the new finish after media blasting and could it be used on engine covers as well as head,jugs and base?
Click to expand...

I used Glasrit clear on my engine some fifteen years ago and the paint still looks wet. Just about bullet proof.
 
I used POR-15 Glisten clear on some polished parts and they look good. Not sure about long term durability on engine parts though.
 
Nessism said:
I used POR-15 Glisten clear on some polished parts and they look good. Not sure about long term durability on engine parts though.
Click to expand...

I have not seen a bit of yellowing on my wheels in two years of course that not at engine temp
 
I had some Lotus rims powder coated by a guy in Forest Grove, OR. He does clear too. I would like to try that.
 
On my engine parts that I have polished I just use Mothers Polish..I dont think theirs any good coating availible..wouldnt make sense really to me..isnt polish an alcohol or thinner based material...and wouldnt any clear coat not stick to it? It gets to be a pain in the ass to polish the engine covers etc after awhile when they do start oxidizing and looking kinda dull.


DDM
 
I used Krylon clear coat, and it looked great for about 3 years, then the finish started wearing off. A big issue for me is I store my bikes covered in my shed over the winter, and the cold nights and warm days causes a lot of condensation which corrodes the heads of all the bolts. I now just spray a light coating of WD40 all over the chassis for the winter storage period, give the bikes a good cleaning come spring, and this method works good.
 
Coatings

Coatings

I'm a little apprehensive on trying Glasurit 924 or Glisten until I can get some data on their resistance to heat. I guess actually calling the manufacturers is the best thing to do.
 
Yeah I had the engine for my Lamborghini clear coated with some Italian stuff in a blue can...worked wonders.

I will look at the can when i get home tonight.
 
Clearcoat

Clearcoat

I've been doing some reading on clear ceramic as a coating for polished engine parts. It looks like it sprays like regular paint from an HVLP gun and is good to 2000F. Has anyone tried this. I'm leaning toward giving it a try.
 
GS ace said:
I'm a little apprehensive on trying Glasurit 924 or Glisten until I can get some data on their resistance to heat. I guess actually calling the manufacturers is the best thing to do.
Click to expand...


To my knowledge there isn't any hi temp clear coats that can withstand dead on engine heat. I use ceramic based engine paints on my engine restores. The paint is designed to be initially heated up, and then cure. The coating is very durable.
 
VHT makes a miriade of engine colors and clear that withstands dead on engine heat up to..If i recall correctly.. 500 degrees or so..its on my 750 engines and havent had any problems. If your engine ever hits 500 degrees it really doesnt matter if the paint will hold up or not!!!!
 
Last edited:
Glasrit

Glasrit

GS ace said:
I'm a little apprehensive on trying Glasurit 924 or Glisten until I can get some data on their resistance to heat. I guess actually calling the manufacturers is the best thing to do.
Click to expand...

As mentioned previously mentioned I used glasrit clear on my polished engine cases and it has held up far better than the factory paint. Like I said it still looks wet and is really tough.
 
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