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How to properly 'dent' a gastank??

  • Thread starter Thread starter DannyMotor
  • Start date Start date
D

DannyMotor

Guest
So, installing GS1000 triples, with 79' GS750L forks on a 78' GS750E has left me scratching my head a few times.

Before I can move forward with body-work on the tank, I need to make two half-inch deep dents in the front corners of my tank where the fork tubes now touch.

I've got 2 theories...

1. Whack it with a ball-peen hammer, slowly... evenly, and try to massage the metal back far enough to clear... then simply bondo any unsightly dents.

2. Use a piece of pipe, or a spare fork tube... line it up where I need it and then pound THAT into the tank to try and achieve a uniform dent.

The only problem I see with number 2 is that the increased surface area of the impact may cause a HUGE dent, rather than a precise one.

Things I don't want to do...
- Cut the tank open.
- Cut and weld in a piece of half-pipe.
- Completely destroy my tank.
 
I don't have an answer for how to properly dent your tank, but I do have a few questions.
Are the GS1000 triples and the L forks a desired setup? If so, why? Are these parts superior?

Well maybe I have an answer after all. Do you have access to a hydraulic press. Slow, steady pressure should do it.
 
If they only touch @ full lock modify your stops to limit rotation.
 
I thought I was going to have to do this on a project but found a tank that would clear. I was going to slide a section o pvc over the forks and turn them into the tank to make a uniform dent. Did'nt have to do it after all.

Buddy
 
DannyMotor said:
I guess modding the stop would be easier.
Click to expand...

I've seen guys drill a small hole in the stops and then stick a bolt through it so the head of the bolt becomes the new stop. It effectively moves the stop forward the thickness of the bolt head, and you can remove the bolt and return to stock if you ever need to. You can also thread a nut on the bolt before you put it through the stop if the bolt alone doesn't move the stop up enough.
 
kawfeedave said:
I've seen guys drill a small hole in the stops and then stick a bolt through it so the head of the bolt becomes the new stop. It effectively moves the stop forward the thickness of the bolt head, and you can remove the bolt and return to stock if you ever need to. You can also thread a nut on the bolt before you put it through the stop if the bolt alone doesn't move the stop up enough.
Click to expand...

+1

Have done this with good results.
 
So you recommend doing this to the frame and stem, or just the block on the lower trees?

I was thinking I could easily take that off and either drill and tap it with an M4 button head hex bolt. Any pictures of your guys' work on this?
 
Here's how I did it on a later model katana fork:

GS700ES018.jpg
 
Sweet. I'll have to go buy a tap and get to work. My lower tree has a very large chunk of aluminum (or steel... not sure the composition of the metal)... that wraps about 1/3rd of the way around the stem, it hits lock on the frame at the left, and hits lock on the tab on the stem at right. So I'll need to do both sides of course.

Do you notice any issues in slow/parking-lot maneuvers? Figure 8's, 180 turn-arounds, etc?
 
Didn't notice any performance issues. The little socket head screws I used probably limited the rotation by 3/16", I'd guess roughly 10 degrees?
 
Just drilled and tapped the stops. Never have I been so stressed to do it perfect haha... not much room for an M6-1.25 thread... but its done! Pics later.
 
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