Identify GS550 Motor and Carbs

[suzuki_gocart]

Update: So it has been identified as an 80 - 82 GS550, now another question. Where is my clutch at!? I've looked all over and cannot find a pick up point for it.


Hey all,
I've just joined, but have been reading up quite a bit previously. I just picked up a GS550 motor with a set of carbs for a go cart project I'm working on. The only problem is I don't have much information about the motor or the carbs. I've searched around and found this chart: http://www.gs-classic.de/download/Suzuki_Rahmen1.pdf

Although, the engine code I have doesn't match any of the ones that are on the chart. Here are some pictures of the engine:

Thank you in advance for all of your help

Mike

 

[suzuki_gocart]

Here are the carbs that I'm trying to identify:

Thanks again

 

[waterman]

Looks like a 78 to 82 8 valve 550 motor. The carbs are typical CV from 80 on up. These look similar to my 81 650; the choke cable comes in from the top, the 82 550L carbs have a side mount choke cable. The wire on bottom rail between number 1 and 2 is different, will assume it is where clutch cable passes below carb? Welcome to forum.

 

[suzuki_gocart]

I would have to agree on the wire between number 1 and 2. The guy I bought the motor from said he thought it was from a 1979, but he wasn't sure. Also what model GS550 would it be? E? L? T?

Thanks

 

[Nessism]

Waterman's got it - '80 - '82 GS550 engine. They are all the same internally. Know before you try to get it running that the carbs are designed for an airbox and stock exhaust. If you try to run the engine with pod air cleaners it won't run right until you rejet the carbs.

Good luck.

 

[suzuki_gocart]

Thank you for the tip because I surely would have tried to run it without the airbox lol When buying parts for this motor are they interchangeable between GS550ET, LT, LX, LZ, MZ, and MX?

 

[Nessism]

Thank you for the tip because I surely would have tried to run it without the airbox lol When buying parts for this motor are they interchangeable between GS550ET, LT, LX, LZ, MZ, and MX?

Parts should be the same save something odd.

 

[BassCliff]

Hee Haw Howdy!

Hee Haw Howdy!

Hi Mr. suzuki_gocart,

Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing has been improved with pictures (not of you, your bike)!

Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the In The Garage section via the GSR Homepage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr. And if your bike uses shims for valve adjustments, send an email to Mr. Steve requesting a copy of his Excel spreadsheet that helps you keep track of clearances, shim sizes and other service work.

These are some edited quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus, Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.
***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
Every GS850 (and most other models) has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.

These common issues are:

1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
***********************************
Carburetor maintenance:

Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:
http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html
Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:
http://cycleorings.com/intake.html
You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
http://cycleorings.com
Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:
http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

***************************************
OEM Parts/Online Fiches:

I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.
http://denniskirk.com - Put in your bike model and see what they have.
http://oldbikebarn.com - seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.
http://www.babbittsonline.com/ - Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.
http://bikebandit.com - Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com - Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.
http://alpha-sports.com - Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.

Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc:

http://mcmaster.com - Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.
http://motorcycleseatcovers.com - Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.
http://newenough.com - You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************
Additional parts/info links:

GSR Forum member Mr. duaneage has great used upgraded Honda regulator/rectifiers for our bikes. Send him a PM.
New electrical parts:
http://stores.ebay.com/RMSTATOR or http://www.rmstator.com/
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php
http://www.electrosport.com/
For valve cover and breather cover gaskets, I recommend Real Gaskets (reusable silicon):
http://www.realgaskets.com
The Rice Paddy (salvage/used)
http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com
Carolina Cycle
http://www.carolinacycle.com
Ron Ayers Motorsports
http://www.ronayers.com
MR Cycles
http://www.mrcycles.com
Moto Grid
http://www.motogrid.com
If all else fails, try this:
http://www.used-motorcycle-parts.org/
Used bike buying checklists:
http://www.amadirectlink.com/roadride/Riderresc/checklist.asp
http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html
Lots of good info/pictures here:
http://www.suzukicycles.org
http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Motorcycle_Wiki
http://www.bikepics.com
Basic motorcycle maintenance/repair:
http://www.dansmc.com/mc_repaircourse.htm
Online Clymer manuals:
http://search.ebscohost.com/ Click on "Small Engine Repair" then "Motorcycles". User=library, password=library. Note: This link may not work if you are on a school campus.

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)

 

[Suzuki mad]

On the side of the carb would have been a 5 digit code which would have told which model the carbs came from. After that its jets out and refer to the jet charts to give you an idea.

This whole lot could have been off an L or an E.

Be nice to find a site or a book that showed what chassis numbers and engine no's from what years. Anybody else know?

Suzuki mad

 

[suzuki_gocart]

That site that I linked in my first post seemed to have a very thorough chart, although the engine code I have did not match any of them. I'll look again for a code on the carbs and I plan on rebuilding them soon.

One more question, where is my clutch?? I've looked all around and I cannot find the pick up point for the clutch.. can anyone spot it in the pictures or direct me to where it would be?

Thanks,
Mike

 

[Suzuki mad]

Its behind you........

Its behind you........

Its in the red circles. Top one is where the cable goes the other plate is where the adjustment is.

Suzuki mad

 

[tkent02]

Left side, the cover over the sprocket has a smaller cover on it.
Cable goes in there, there's a screw and pushrod arrangement to release the clutch

 

[suzuki_gocart]

Cool thanks guys, I'll check it out tonight. Quick responses around here lol