I'm a dufuss!

[ddaniels]

I had mentioned in another thread about my Boss car stereo I mounted on the bike not working when the bike wasn't running, and cutting off when I turned the signals on. So, I called Boss technical support and he gave me some tips on what to check. So, I got the multimeter out and checked the voltage at the source where I was plugging in the red power lead from the radio. With the bike off, it was about 8.5 volts! I was pulling that power from the orange wire coming off the back side of the plug leading up to the ignition switch, feeding through the Vetter harness, through the plugin and inside the fairing. When the bike is running, that lead reads about 10.5 volts! Why is it so dang low? Can somebody tell me I can draw that power from that will give me 12 volts when the bike isn't running, but the key is on? I realize the tail lights and front running lights, as well as the dash lights are stealing some voltage with the key on, but should it be stealing that much? The white power wire that goes to the stereo, that you have to plug into a constant 12V source to keep the clock and presets going reads about 12.2 volts with the key off. I'm drawing that power from the red wire that goes into the plug leading up to the ignition. So, between that red wire going into the plug leading up to the ignition switch, and the orange wire coming back from the ignition switch, I'm losing a bunch of voltage when the key is on.

So, I guess that stereo is ok. I asked him why it requires 13.8 volts to operate and he said that is what is required for it to obtain the full 80 watts per channel, but it should turn on with a 12 volt source.

So, anybody have any advice for me of where to draw at least 12 volts from when the ignition is on? Thanks for any help!

 

[TheCafeKid]

I had mentioned in another thread about my Boss car stereo I mounted on the bike not working when the bike wasn't running, and cutting off when I turned the signals on. So, I called Boss technical support and he gave me some tips on what to check. So, I got the multimeter out and checked the voltage at the source where I was plugging in the red power lead from the radio. With the bike off, it was about 8.5 volts! I was pulling that power from the orange wire coming off the back side of the plug leading up to the ignition switch, feeding through the Vetter harness, through the plugin and inside the fairing. When the bike is running, that lead reads about 10.5 volts! Why is it so dang low? Can somebody tell me I can draw that power from that will give me 12 volts when the bike isn't running, but the key is on? I realize the tail lights and front running lights, as well as the dash lights are stealing some voltage with the key on, but should it be stealing that much? The white power wire that goes to the stereo, that you have to plug into a constant 12V source to keep the clock and presets going reads about 12.2 volts with the key off. I'm drawing that power from the red wire that goes into the plug leading up to the ignition. So, between that red wire going into the plug leading up to the ignition switch, and the orange wire coming back from the ignition switch, I'm losing a bunch of voltage when the key is on.

So, I guess that stereo is ok. I asked him why it requires 13.8 volts to operate and he said that is what is required for it to obtain the full 80 watts per channel, but it should turn on with a 12 volt source.

So, anybody have any advice for me of where to draw at least 12 volts from when the ignition is on? Thanks for any help!

Straight from the battery

Anything on these bikes that side of the ignition or fuse block is going to see some voltage loss. Much less provided you've cleaned and doctored all of your connections, but still...

 

[ddaniels]

Straight from the battery

Anything on these bikes that side of the ignition or fuse block is going to see some voltage loss. Much less provided you've cleaned and doctored all of your connections, but still...

I was thinking of doing that, but I really wanted the radio to turn off with th key.

 

[JEEPRUSTY]

could a capacitor in line help? I suppose it would still bleed off with no charging going on.

Im sure some of the leet tunah car stereo sites deal with this type of problem maybe hit them up for their solution.

Though I fear its a second bank on the alternator and another large battery.

 

[TheCafeKid]

I was thinking of doing that, but I really wanted the radio to turn off with th key.

Then you probably want to tap into switched power closest to the source.. Maybe the coils.. but that would draw from the coils... Maybe at the fuse block... Maybe the tail lamp right there at the battery... Lots of options, but what it comes down to more than anything is that all of your connections are clean. Radio or not, if they arent, you may be only getting what you're seeing ANYWHERE on the bike... and thats not good..

 

[ddaniels]

Then you probably want to tap into switched power closest to the source.. Maybe the coils.. but that would draw from the coils... Maybe at the fuse block... Maybe the tail lamp right there at the battery... Lots of options, but what it comes down to more than anything is that all of your connections are clean. Radio or not, if they arent, you may be only getting what you're seeing ANYWHERE on the bike... and thats not good..

Noted. Thanks. I'll do a run through the connections again.

 

[Steve]

Can you say "Radio Relay Mod"? :-k



.

 

[bonanzadave]

Can you say "Radio Relay Mod"? :-k

Ha ! I was thinking the same thing. Anyone got a 6 pole relay for all my relay mods ....

 

[ddaniels]

Can you say "Radio Relay Mod"? :-k



.

I'm afraid that's a bit above my head Steve. Are you in town?

 

[bobthebiker88]

isnt ther an auxillary power point with a positive and negative on the fuse block? MOST older suzuki's I've seen have this wonderful feature, which is close to the battery, and I'd imagne switched power.

 

[TheCafeKid]

isnt ther an auxillary power point with a positive and negative on the fuse block? MOST older suzuki's I've seen have this wonderful feature, which is close to the battery, and I'd imagne switched power.

NOT switched...but yes... If you're putting a low draw item on it, like a port to plug in a cig lighter charger for your phone or something...its great.. But for a radio..I dunno what kind of voltage its pulling to maintain the memory..Id imagine not much..but its not switched.. on all the time..

 

[ddaniels]

The wire coming out of the radio that is for keeping the memory has to be connected to a constant 12 volts, not switched. It's the other red wire that powers the radio up that I wanted to have switched.

 

[posplayr]

isnt ther an auxillary power point with a positive and negative on the fuse block? MOST older suzuki's I've seen have this wonderful feature, which is close to the battery, and I'd imagne switched power.

aux on my ED is not switched.

 

[bobthebiker88]

I wasnt 100% sure on this, since its been awhile and the last bike I dealt with that HAD it, was a 93 katana 600 pile of CRAP. god how I hate those bikes.

 

[Steve]

I'm afraid that's a bit above my head Steve. Are you in town?

It's not all that hard, and no, I'm not in town. Won't be back until mid-November.

Also want to remind you that with the radio memory wire connected, there is a little bit of draw all the time. If you ride every day or two, it won't be a problem, but I have a feeling that in about a week, it will draw the battery down enough to cause problems. Do you have a Battery Tender connection on the bike? That's not too hard, either.

Call me if you want to discuss it before you tackle it.

.

 

[Guest]

I don't think a relay mod is over your head. Use a bosch relay. Use your switched wire and bring another to the relay from the battery. A ground to complete the relay coil circuit and a feeder to the radio. a la fog lamps...............
http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/bosch/foglites.htm

 

[ddaniels]

I don't think a relay mod is over your head. Use a bosch relay. Use your switched wire and bring another to the relay from the battery. A ground to complete the relay coil circuit and a feeder to the radio. a la fog lamps...............
http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/bosch/foglites.htm

Thanks, that helps a ton.

 

[ddaniels]

Hey, I found a relay in my garage that I already had. It has two sides to it, so wired both the radio and the fog lights through it. Ran the one existing constant 12V to the one side for the fog lights. Then I ran a seperate designated fused hot wire directly from the positive post of the battery up the the front of the bike and connected to the one remaining unused wire in the Vetter harness. Connected that to the radio side of the relay. Everything works all at the same time now...radio, signals, fog lights, yada yada. I guess I finally found the right method. Thanks for all the help!

 

[raistian77]

Then you probably want to tap into switched power closest to the source.. Maybe the coils.. but that would draw from the coils... Maybe at the fuse block... Maybe the tail lamp right there at the battery... Lots of options, but what it comes down to more than anything is that all of your connections are clean. Radio or not, if they arent, you may be only getting what you're seeing ANYWHERE on the bike... and thats not good..

+1 In the fairing Steve brought me there are 2 extra unused pass through wires. I ran my switched through one of the extra wires and ran it straight to an unused fuse slot. The only thing my igition does now is close the relay to power the fuse box. I really didn't like the idea of running all of the bikes power draws through the ignition switch.