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Install pistons without opening engine case?

  • Thread starter Thread starter madwoodman58
  • Start date Start date
M

madwoodman58

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I needed to replace the lower and upper gaskets on my cylinder (which led to rebuilt carbs and engine cleaning and other maintenance jobs). The manual says you can remove the cylinder without removing the engine from the bike.

I'm ready to begin the install, but I can't figure out the sequence to put the pistons back in the cylinder and attach them to the rods. I really don't want to have to remove the engine case an crack it open to hook up the rods from underneath.

Is there some way to attach the pistons to the rods and then slip the cylinder over them?
 
You need to replace the Cir clips Start with the center two. Put the clip in the piston, while holding the piston, slide the wrist pin thru the piston and rod--- install the outer Cir clip Then do the outer two. Use a short piece 2x2 Block the outer two pistons Then install the cylinders over the center two, then the outer two... so on !!! use some Popsicle sticks or something to gently push the rings into the bore Or some large cable ties to compress the rings
 
make sure you place rags in the crankcase so when you loose the circlips, they don't go down inside the engine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
barnbiketom said:
make sure you place rags in the crankcase so when you loose the circlips, they don't go down inside the engine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...
Notice he said when, not if. They will spring free, trust me.
I used Popsicle sticks (well, ABS wedges) to push the rings in. No ring compressor needed. Just be patient, and be prepared for a few re-dos if the piston moves and the rings come out again.
 
barnbiketom said:
make sure you place rags in the crankcase so when you loose the circlips, they don't go down inside the engine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...

Like he said, when one of those circlips takes off on ya. Problem is, you don't always see where it went. Lost one on mine when I was putting her back together, it did end up finding its way into the engine but a good flexible pencil magnet found it.
 
Another little tid-bit of information. Be sure the oil ring (the wavy one) is butted and not over lapped itself. Also I like the Teflon Buttons over the circlips. Oh, it's nice to have a buddys help when lowering the cylinders too.
 
Here is a MUST have that I can tell you need from your questions. Buy a SHOP MANUAL for your bike!!! If you had one you would already have read it & would have the answers to your questions. I don't mean to sound rude but this is a common sense thing & something you should have for EVERY bike you are working on yourself. Ray.
 
rapidray said:
Here is a MUST have that I can tell you need from your questions. Buy a SHOP MANUAL for your bike!!! If you had one you would already have read it & would have the answers to your questions. I don't mean to sound rude but this is a common sense thing & something you should have for EVERY bike you are working on yourself. Ray.
Click to expand...


Agreed 100%. The OP is apparently trying to complete this without a shop manual, and that is never going to work. Things need to happen in a certain sequence, torque settings must be correct and done in the right order, the pistons must be oriented correctly, etc. and so on through many details.

Shop manuals can be remarkably vague on many subjects, but I've always found that the engine assembly instructions and photos are pretty clear.
 
Even the orientation of the gap in each ring is important.
The official service manual is the first thing I get when I purchase a bike. And I much prefer a paper copy over an electronic copy.
 
Well he does mention "the manual" in his first post - not sure which manual he's referring to that's not making this clear. The pistons should be attached of course already and you drop the cylinder over the pistons themselves.

Some tips:

1. Do the inner pistons first. It's easier to reach the outer pistons to compress the rings by hand as the cylinders approach the block.

2. Make a loop of wire to grab the cam chain with and feed it up through the cavity for that.

3. Take two 3x6x1" blocks of wood and cut a 1x4" slot in the middle like a "U". You can use them under the inner pistons (the slot is for the connecting rods) against the block to keep them flat while you put the cylinders down over them.

The Haynes manual probably shows tip #3 there.
 
Don't forget to ensure that the bores are clean and not filled with abrasive residue or dirt. Oil the pistons and bores as well.
 
I'm not sure if my service manual is the "shop manual" to which you refer, but I have one and use it religiously. That's the funny part. It refers to this as something you can do with the engine in the bike but illustrates it as a full engine disassembly! I'm real big on "by the book" and couldn't have done what I have without it and the incredible wealth of information from the contributors on this forum. Once this project is back together I will have completely rebuilt my 1100GL and before May of last year I had never done anything but ride a bike.

Thanks for all the info and ill let you know how it goes this weekend.
 
It only shows it in one place; to show it over again would be redundant. Sounds like you have the Suzuki factory Service Manual, which is a good thing. Best of luck.
 
Also, once you've oiled everything up, you gotta commit to it, and get the cylinder jugs on.
If you walk off, and try to finish it tomorrow, you will probably have dust and debris stuck all over everything.
That oil will absorb Every last particle floating in the air, lol.
But then again, my garage is very dirty.
 
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