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LED Tail light flasher unit question.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Skyboy8950
  • Start date Start date
S

Skyboy8950

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Yes, I know it has been covered before, but I have a question about a setup that I found on the forums.

82 850G. LED turn signals. I picked up a 3 prong EC (or EF) 34 unit down at Schucks. It plugged directly into the socket, but I routed the (-) end to the negative on the battery (as I know it needs to be grounded). Other than that, no modifications were made. +12 was coming out of the brown wire costantly an nothing was happening with the (L) wire. None of my lights flashed.

I have one taillight not installed at all because it was a defective unit. The head light is not installed.

Any guesses at what I did wrong or will it work when I install the last light? signals do not work in either direction. They do not come on or blink at all.
 
I had the same problem with my LEDs. They do not draw enough power on these older bikes so the bike thinks the light is out you have to get a voltage regulator or rectifier. I forget the name but any bike shop should know what your asking for. And all you do is connect the wires to your existing wires but you have to have a four lead one.
 
If you used the Suzuki socket for your flasher unit, it won't work. It's not wired the same.

The Suzuki flasher is special in that it is really a two-prong flasher, and the third terminal is what comes from the auto-cancel unit and tells the system when to work and when to shut off. Simply plugging in a three-prong flasher will not work. You need a two-prong flasher in the appropriate two holes in the stock socket, and you will lose your auto-cancel feature. :(

.
 
Ok, so maybe it wasn't clear before so I will clarify.

I cut the one wire off of the socket that lined up with the NEW flasher unit ground and ran it to ground. The hot wire (brown) lines up with the hot prong on the new flasher (X). The last prong on the NEW flasher unit (L) is still connected to the wire that was attached. I believe it is light blue.

Maybe the darker striped blue wire needs to go there. Any more thoughts?
 
OK, I have not looked at the bike in the garage because there is a lot of stuff piled next to it, but the diagram in the factory manual shows an orange/green wire as power (it's tapped off the brake light hot wire), a light blue wire going to the signal switch and a black/blue wire going to the control unit.

Your flasher might have labels like B, L and G or E. They stand for Battery, Load (or Lights) and Ground or Earth.
Connect the orange/green wire to B, the light blue wire to L and connect the B or E to a ground point.

.
 
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Yup, that matches what I did, but my socket for my old flasher worked for the new one. I'll keep fiddling.
 
OK,

So in the tutorial, you have an "E" and a "B". I have an "X" and a "-". I assumed X was hot (orange with green stripe) and - to the negative on the battery. I have "L" which goes to the light blue (Switch). When the switch is in it's neutral position (center), I get 11 volts going across the X and - as well as 11 volts going from L to neutral. When I turn the switch to left or right, I still get 11 volts going from X to -, but 7.72 volts going from L to neutral and it is not flashing.

Any thoughts?
 
In doing all this work, the orange with brown stripe wire, through me hooking it up in many configurations, stopped giving me 12VDC. I think I blew my turn signal unit. Does anyone have one I can have? Thanks.
 
ARRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am frustrated!

Ok, Steve, the fuse did blow, and that fixed that problem.

So I took the old flasher unit back and got a "no load" flasher for LED Lights. I hooked this up and it barely works. You can't even see it flashing from more than a foot away. What is going on? Why are LED lights so hard to wire? Also, even jumping the hot and the light blue wire that goes to the switch, the indicator light will not light up in the instrument cluster. What the heck? I am frustrated beyond belief and may just scratch the whole thing.
 
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