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Shunt type, bad bad bad. SH775 is what you want.
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Shunt type, bad bad bad. SH775 is what you want.
You probably just burned up your stator again using that shunt R/R.
You did not do the leg to ground tests (test for isolation 0 VAC) at 5K RPM in Phase B of the stator pages.
this makes no sense if your key-on test shows 12.2...?The key must be on to activate brake light....but I'm just nitpicking. ANY load will drop your system voltage if the bike isn't running...as to how much it drops it, it's the amperage demand. Your headlamp, for instance draws far more than a brakelight....and, do you have any extra accessories on the bike?
need say, before anything, connections,connections,connections...If things have changed since you first installed the new parts, this is the place to start and especially at any wiring in the vicinity of any projects you've done on the bike...
If you suspect the brake light circuit, pull it's fuse and see if your Charging voltage improves at battery. You can pull the headlamp too.
I don't have a caltric stator, but I know that I can easily wind a stator to produce 80 volts without it having amperage output.Or, perhaps the regulator is at fault. Is it hot?...but everything else aside, you can run along just fine with 13.7 at the battery given the bike starts and runs correctly and reliably and you really can't find anything wrong...and you refresh the battery every month or so on a good battery charger to give it a higher rate occassionally or just turn your headlight off when warming up the bike.
