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Little Throttle response at idle, stalls

  • Thread starter Thread starter curtie94
  • Start date Start date
I am pretty sure the plugs keep firing. I am using a dyna s.

I did bench sync the carbs. I tried to sync them with vacuum sync tool but the bike wouldnt idle.

The pilot circuits are clean I'm sure of that.

So other then that it is spark or compression?

So your saying even without the air box it should still idle?
 
It should idle without element in filter box (my does)- haven't tried it with airbox off, but principle is same. At idle with decent bench sync, the throttle plates are basically blocking carb throats, so extra restriction from airbox and filter box is inconsequential - the idle circuits should be able to supply all the mixture bike needs to hold steady idle. Your bike is either losing spark, losing fuel mixture, or getting too much fuel . The latter seems unlikely, but you did say 3 plugs looked rich.
 
I checked my cam timingKIMG0020.jpg

to me it looks good.

I am going to take a look at the carbs again and see if i missed anything.
 
i'm gonna suggest that you possibly look at the coils too. on my kz1000m1, i must have taken the carbs off and taken them apart and cleaned them 6-8 times in the last 4 months, to include throttle shaft seals, since i found bad seals the last time i took the carbs off. once i got everything back together on saturday and running, but with how your 550 is running almost exactly, i looked at the coils since i couldn't find ANY vacuum leaks. with the plugs laying on the head i was getting good spark, but installed, the bike would run just like your 550. i swapped my factory coils for the dyna 3ohm greens that i had on my 650g, and all the problems went away. just something else to look at. the dyna s doesn't really like old factory coils. i have a dyna s on the kz too.
 
curtie94 said:
I was looking at parts diagrams for the air box and noticed what they call a ring. Here is the parts diagram:http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3f843f8700230d8b4cea7/air-cleaner

It is number 11.

I am only wondering because I do not have these and I'm lean on one cylinder. Would that cause it? What exactly are they?

I think that I will pull the carbs and make sure that the air boot and o-ring are fine. Only because I soaked the air boot on that carb with starting fluid and the rpms did skyrocket. but it took a little while before it did.

Is there anything else that would cause that carb to go lean like it is? I did pull the carb drain and it was full. If the float was set to lean would that be my cause? Or does it seem more like a air leak?
Click to expand...


That ring holds the boots in place. It sits in the lip of the boot that is inside the air box.
 
I checked the carb sync and I was off a bit so I got the carb sync closer and the idle is smoother now. It seemed to run better, I took it around the block and it ran fine crisp throttle and plenty of power.

But I left it idling for 5 minutes and it stalled, went to restart and nothing, waited 10-15 minutes and it started on the first crank. I do notice that one coil gets hotter then the other.

Honestly I don't trust the bike to take me across town right now, feel if I come to a stop at a light it will stall and not start back up.

I don't have any throttle when I first start the bike, I have to let it idle at 4500 rpm with full choke or it will stall.

I also still have a hanging idle when I give it gas.

I have the mixture screw's at 2 1/2 turns out currently, I tried to adjust them but that's when the bike stalled.

Should I maybe try setting then at a base 3 turns out and go from there.

Also the manual says 20 pins between cams starting with the pin directly above the 2 arrow and ending above the 3 arrow
 
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I'm still thinking coils are at fault here with having to wait to restart. Take it for a short ride and pull the plugs while it's still hot and see what the spark looks like
 
"....I don't have any throttle when I first start the bike, I have to let it idle at 4500 rpm with full choke or it will stall. "

This sounds like running on one cylinder at cold start up- either poor spark (seems unlikely) ,or lack of enough fuel in idle circuit ,to get engine going. At cold start, I apply full "choke" (no throttle input at all),mine starts instantly and will soar to 4000 rpm if I don't reduce choke ASAP to about 1/4.This holds a fast idle at about 2k, it drives off smoothly and I knock off choke within two minutes.
 
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