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master cylinder

  • Thread starter Thread starter buckeyemike
  • Start date Start date
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buckeyemike

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82 gs 850, so trying to get this thing up and running is a slow process. I think it sat for many years. doing carbs now. when I picked it up a month ago the brakes did not work very well, so I decided to try to flush them. Well that is when the front brake wont even budge, and the rear moves freely. All lines disconnected from calipers and both front and back did nothing! Master rebuilds on both???? How hard will this be? Where is best/cheapest place to get kits, Z1? a posting said not to get theirs anymore? Best place for brake lines, probably only replace front lines.
 
You may only need to disassemble and clean the calipers and master cylinder.
It's easy to do, I just finished doing the front calipers and m/c on my 1000G.

Remove caliper and line, and use compressed air on where the line enters the caliper. WARNING-the piston may pop out violently. Put a shop towel in the caliper to catch the piston. Keep your fingers out of the way, too!
Then use a pick or small screwdriver to remove the seal and dust cover.
Check the piston for pitting or rust. If it's only slightly pitted you can dress it with fine sandpaper and reuse.
Clean the muck out of the caliper bore and seal grooves, then reassemble, using clean brake fluid.

On the m/c, remove the brake light switch-warning-be careful not to lose the small parts inside.
Remove brake line and then m/c. Remove brake lever and then dust seal around piston. Then using retaining ring pliers (I used small forceps) remove the retaining ring and then pull the piston and then the spring out.
Clean everything thoroughly and reassemble with fluid.
Remember not to use brake cleaner on the rubber parts, clean them in brake fluid.

OOPS! Forgot to remove the reservoir! Clean under it, too. There are two holes in the base of the m/c, one for outgoing fluid, then a tiny one for returning. Make sure they are both clear.
Reassemble m/c, put back on bike and reattach line. Fill with fluid and then pump some through the lines to flush them. Then attach lines to calipers and bleed the system.

Don't get brake fluid on painted parts! It's great paint remover!

With some patience and a little luck, this is all you'll have to do!
 
buckeyemike said:
82 gs 850, so trying to get this thing up and running is a slow process.
Click to expand...
Overhaul both masters and all three calipers, replace lines as needed.
no need worrying if it won't stop, if you need it to.
I take them apart to see the condition of the pieces parts, then order what I need from o.e.m. sources (if they still have the o.e parts on the bike).
example*** if the caliper boots are ok, I just order the seals for the pistons.
 
Stop or not to stop that is the question.

Stop or not to stop that is the question.

rustybronco said:
Overhaul both masters and all three calipers, replace lines as needed.
no need worrying if it won't stop, if you need it to.
Click to expand...

They never stopped all those years ago so not a lots changed then.

Suzuki mad
 
New brake lines are a must in my opinion. Scale builds up on the inside of the lines, just like it does inside the calipers. Suzuki calls for replacing the lines every two years, which is excessive, but if yours are 25+ years old…it’s time.

You can make your own stainless/Teflon brake lines for cheap by purchasing parts from anplumbing.com Do a search and you will turn up a thread discussing this topic.
 
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