my bike runs like poo

[Blake]

i believe i have a carb problem.

1978 GS 550 (unsure of model)

Previous owner made it into a "bobber."
4-1 exhaust with no baffles
and "pods"
i believe he said it has 105 jets? could be wrong, probably am.

well, here's what happens-
bike takes a while to start. its an old carbed bike so it should be somewhat expected, but this bike is a bit ridiculous. its a good 15 minutes of playing with the choke and idle screw before it will somewhat keep itself running.

then when i go to take off, once i get it idling with the choke fully off, it will pull ok till about 1/2 throttle then it bogs and loses all that could even be mistaken for acceleration. then all of the sudden it'll clear up and about fling me off the bike. does it more so in 1-2-3 than 4-5-6. but after riding 10-15 minutes it clears up acts like a normal bike for the most part.

there's no way it should take this bike that much to "warm up."

 

[Adler]

bike takes a while to start. its an old carbed bike so it should be somewhat expected, but this bike is a bit ridiculous.

I wouldnt expect that. When these bikes are properly tuned they start with a light brush of the starter.

Have you cleaned the carbs? adjusted the valves? done any maintenance?

Might want to consider a stock airbox to avoid jetting irritation. Might look out of place on a bobber though.

 

[cowboyup3371]

Agreed with Adler but don't just try to spray carb cleaner in there and call it cleaned. Those carbs need to be stripped down, dipped for twenty-four hours each, have all orings replaced, bench-synched, placed back on the bike and synched with a good manometer. The intake orings and possibly boots should also be replaced as they are a big cause of hanging idles.

Also, when was the last time the valves were adjusted? That is a standard maintenance practice that needs doing every few thousand miles.

Essentially, you need to go back to the welcome package that Basscliff gave you and go through all the maintenance you were told about. Only then will this thirty year old bike do what you want it to do.

 

[850GT_Rider]

bike takes a while to start. its an old carbed bike so it should be somewhat expected, but this bike is a bit ridiculous. its a good 15 minutes of playing with the choke and idle screw before it will somewhat keep itself running."

If that's your attitude about carbs, you're in trouble already. My bike starts instantly and warms up within 30 seconds - okay, maybe one full minute if the temp is below 50F

Those carbs need to be stripped down, dipped for twenty-four hours each, have all orings replaced, bench-synched, placed back on the bike and synched with a good manometer. The intake orings and possibly boots should also be replaced as they are a big cause of hanging idles.

Also, when was the last time the valves were adjusted? That is a standard maintenance practice that needs doing every few thousand miles.

Essentially, you need to go back to the welcome package that Basscliff gave you and go through all the maintenance you were told about. Only then will this thirty year old bike do what you want it to do.

+1! There are NO shortcuts. Be methodical, do it ALL, do it PROPERLY.

 

[Blake]

that's what i was getting at, it shouldnt take 15 minutes. i was saying i expect a minute or so. what i mean is its not going to be like my EFI truck...

no clue when any of the above has been done. i'm beginning to think i'm a little over my head with this, and i'm about ready to just get out from under it...

 

[BigD_83]

that's what i was getting at, it shouldnt take 15 minutes. i was saying i expect a minute or so. what i mean is its not going to be like my EFI truck...

no clue when any of the above has been done. i'm beginning to think i'm a little over my head with this, and i'm about ready to just get out from under it...

Sounds like gunked up carbs to me.

Don't worry about being over your head....you're probably not. Most of the things that you have to do are pretty straight forward grunt-work.

What was your original end-goal with this bobber?

 

[allojohn]

Come on Blake, don't despair. With the help of the forum you can fix this. Yeah, it's not easy but if you take your time and take things step by step you will be successful and you will feel real satisfaction. Come on man - do it!

 

[Blake]

on top of this it has a massive oil leak that i have no idea where it's coming from... that is really what has me down.

when i bought the bike i planned on just cleaning it up mainly. and get a spoke wheel for the rear. and maybe a speedo and tach lol nothing crazy though.

 

[Dave8338]

Carbs are easy. Not that many parts to them. As for the valves, they NEED to be within spec.

The problems that you mention ALL POINT TO THREE seperate-but-equal functions to get the bike running the way it should. Likely the reason the PO sold it was that HE TOO, thought he was in over his head.

1. Clean carbs correctly.
2. Set valves correctly.
3. Jet carbs correctly.

That's it. Simple as that and you have more education here as it pertains to the GS bikes, than Harvard has law students. Brighter too, I might add... :-\\\

Go ahead and ask the questions.

 

[allojohn]

on top of this it has a massive oil leak that i have no idea where it's coming from... that is really what has me down.

That too could be a fairly easy fix. Clean off all the crud with Simple Green and a stiff brush and locate the leak. Come back on here, post a picture or two and someone will have the solution.

 

[nooblet]

I too sometimes feel overwhelmed when I think of all the things that need to be done to get my bike running properly. Take it one step at a time and with the help of forum members you will get it, and feel a sense of accomplishment when it is running the way it should.

 

[MisterCinders]

That too could be a fairly easy fix. Clean off all the crud with Simple Green and a stiff brush and locate the leak. Come back on here, post a picture or two and someone will have the solution.

You might also use some athlete's foot spray after you clean the crud. The white residue will stain from new oil, isolating the leak.

 

[bigbadwolf]

+1 with slow and methodical. i was really in despair when i first got my basket case but now that I have her running right-er I really feel better. At first, it seemed daunting. For the most part, it's about taking the time and following the steps. Time can be an more of an investment than some people want to make for a project though. As much as I don't want to advocate quiting, I do advocate for taking an objective look at what you are willing to do and what you will get out of it. In the end, you'll have this running right for the tail end of the season if you go thru the steps. You'll definately have a runner for the first nice day of next season though. I was also thoroughly impressed at the helpfulness of this group! Best of luck in your choice and project! BBW

 

[Blake]

Carbs are easy. Not that many parts to them. As for the valves, they NEED to be within spec.

The problems that you mention ALL POINT TO THREE seperate-but-equal functions to get the bike running the way it should. Likely the reason the PO sold it was that HE TOO, thought he was in over his head.

1. Clean carbs correctly.
2. Set valves correctly.
3. Jet carbs correctly.

That's it. Simple as that and you have more education here as it pertains to the GS bikes, than Harvard has law students. Brighter too, I might add... :-\\\

Go ahead and ask the questions.

I've done atv and dirt bike carbs more times than i can remember, but there's only one. the whole 4 linked together and getting in sync thing is what im afraid of.

That too could be a fairly easy fix. Clean off all the crud with Simple Green and a stiff brush and locate the leak. Come back on here, post a picture or two and someone will have the solution.

You might also use some athlete's foot spray after you clean the crud. The white residue will stain from new oil, isolating the leak.

started on it

I too sometimes feel overwhelmed when I think of all the things that need to be done to get my bike running properly. Take it one step at a time and with the help of forum members you will get it, and feel a sense of accomplishment when it is running the way it should.

+1 with slow and methodical. i was really in despair when i first got my basket case but now that I have her running right-er I really feel better. At first, it seemed daunting. For the most part, it's about taking the time and following the steps. Time can be an more of an investment than some people want to make for a project though. As much as I don't want to advocate quiting, I do advocate for taking an objective look at what you are willing to do and what you will get out of it. In the end, you'll have this running right for the tail end of the season if you go thru the steps. You'll definately have a runner for the first nice day of next season though. I was also thoroughly impressed at the helpfulness of this group! Best of luck in your choice and project! BBW

I know it's a great feeling when you get something together and running right yourself. its half the reason why i do these types of things. everything listed in my sig i have been through inside and out. it makes me proud to say yes i did this to my vehicle myself. the other half is having something that i enjoy driving and is different that people come up to me and talk about.

i'm going to try to get this going over the next 2 months and put my bronco project on hold for a little bit and make it a winter project since the bronco is further away from being done.

well i'll work on finish cleaning it up this weekend (before/after work) and see where it takes me.

 

[Blake]

so i think i know where my major oil leak is coming from.

the oil filter cover/area just like someone told me to check when i first joined the site. i just didnt pay attention to it... (sorry) woulda saved me a lot of frustration...

but anyway, hopefully i'll find sometime to get out there and do some work soon.

 

[Guest]

so i think i know where my major oil leak is coming from.

the oil filter cover/area just like someone told me to check when i first joined the site. i just didnt pay attention to it... (sorry) woulda saved me a lot of frustration...

but anyway, hopefully i'll find sometime to get out there and do some work soon.

Could just be a pinched or badly positioned O ring under the filter cover.
That's not a biggie, just don't lose too much oil before you fix it.

 

[Blake]

Could just be a pinched or badly positioned O ring under the filter cover.
That's not a biggie, just don't lose too much oil before you fix it.

dont lose too much oil.. yeah... about that, errmm i'm pretty sure all of it has come out onto the plywood i've got it parked over. but i havent been riding it since i discovered the puddle.

but it'll probably be this weekend when i do it. so i'll post up about it.

 

[2BRacing]

so i think i know where my major oil leak is coming from.

the oil filter cover/area

Check if the threads on one or more of the 3 studs is stripped so that the nut cannot be tightened down enough. There is quite a strong spring between the oil filter and the oil filter cover, which will push the cover away from the casing, allowing the oil to leak, if the nuts do not hold the cover on properly. If one or more studs has stripped, replace all 3 with Suzuki OEM studs and new "acorn" nuts. Also replace the large rubber O-ring around the outside of the oil filter cover.