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Nike stalls when letting clutch out

  • Thread starter Thread starter Klaoutdoors
  • Start date Start date
K

Klaoutdoors

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I have a 79 gs750 that has straight pipes and will have pods it has been jetted. I know the carb to head boots are no good also looking for a set of those. It cranks and idles good, but when I put it in gear and start to let the clutch out it stalls and cuts off. I have tried high revs and dumping the clutch and starting in 2 gear also. When in gear and not cranked I can pull the clutch in and push the bike around any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also this is a bobber so it has minimal wiring
 
I'd open up the clutch. Sounds like it's binding.
Can you pull the clutch and push the bike in first without it running?
 
Yes I can put the bike in gear and it doesn't move. Pull the clutch in and it goes. It worked until I redid the wiring
 
Bypass the clutch interlock switch. It's the switch at the clutch lever that goes into the headlight bucket.
You crossed something up there.
 
I will have to check the switch wires. I didn't put any wires in my new harness for one
 
Klaoutdoors said:
I know the carb to head boots are no good also looking for a set of those.
Click to expand...

That would be high on my list of things to do since it's a KNOWN issue.

chef1366 said:
Bypass the clutch interlock switch. It's the switch at the clutch lever that goes into the headlight bucket.
You crossed something up there.
Click to expand...

Not sure how a clutch interlock switch could cause a running engine to stall? As I understand it, that switch only controls power going to the electric starter motor. Once the engine is running it would have no effect. I would think that, even if the wires were all crossed up, then it would still stall when in neutral with the clutch let out.

What happens if you try to put it in gear with the bike on the center stand? Does it still stall when you let the clutch out?
 
I think I figured out what is let me know if this would not cause this issue. My left two cylinders are not getting hot when running. I'm pretty sure it's a valve clearance issue. Would this cause the bike to stall when trying to go
 
I don't think improper valve clearance would cause these symptoms, but check the clearance anyway if you haven't already. (Hint: it's not an optional maintenance item.)

After that, you'll have to narrow down the cause. It's probably not ignition related if cylinders 3 and 4 are working. You can check compression, but it's probably fine.

Have you cleaned your carbs? No, I mean really cleaned your carbs? http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/vm_carb_rebuild.pdf

Hmm, I noticed you said the intake boots are no good. Replace those before messing with anything else. If they're leaking air, nothing else you do will help.
 
eil said:
I don't think improper valve clearance would cause these symptoms, but check the clearance anyway if you haven't already. (Hint: it's not an optional maintenance item.)

After that, you'll have to narrow down the cause. It's probably not ignition related if cylinders 3 and 4 are working. You can check compression, but it's probably fine.

Have you cleaned your carbs? No, I mean really cleaned your carbs? http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/vm_carb_rebuild.pdf

Hmm, I noticed you said the intake boots are no good. Replace those before messing with anything else. If they're leaking air, nothing else you do will help.
Click to expand...

Agreed... Having cylinders 3 and 4 not firing would lean toward carb related issues. The valve adjustment must be done but it would have to be WAY off in order to cause a no fire situation. Leaking intake boots are a no brainer. Get them replaced and adjust the valves while you rebuild the carbs.
 
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