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Nitrous street 1166

  • Thread starter Thread starter Nicholaschase29
  • Start date Start date
Sounds good Ray - No babying allowed.. I guess I can live with that ;)
 
Here is sniffer version 2.0. The original one was starting to melt so I made this one out of a block of aluminum and some flexible copper tube and some compression fittings. I milled the one side flat so that the sealing washer on the O2 sensor has a nice sealing surface.

DSC05833.jpg


DSC05834.jpg


DSC05835.jpg


I also have a doner bike for a 3" over swing arm that should help keep the front end down when I hit the juice.

More in depth analysis of the air/fuel to come this weekend.

swingarm.jpg
 
I got it all rigged up. Here is a video of a 3rd gear pull going full throttle at ~3500rpm. Notice the super rich condition at 5k rpm and then it smooths back out. I have 140 mains in. What do you guys think is causing this rich condition at 5.5k which equalizes out at about 6000? You can hear the engine miss a few times if you listen closely.

Edit: Other things to be noted - My brother is on the back holding the camera around my waist. Probably an extra 380lb total rider weight + weight of the bike. (we had many jackets and gloves etc. on.) And it's 25 degrees F out! (it's only going to get richer)

CLICK THE PICTURES TO WATCH THE VIDEO!

 
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I dropped in the 135's. Bike runs much cleaner now, AFR is improving but there is still this interesting rich spot when held at a constant WOT when the RPMs get between 5500-6000RPM.

Cruising at 60mph and looking at AFR tells me needles need to be dropped a knotch to lean out the midrange.
 
So, you have the guage permanently mounted now? Do you have a V&H pipe? Where did you install the sensor in the pipe? Right after the collector? or before the baffle?
 
The gauge is not permanently mounted, but nicely temporarily mounted. The O2 Sensor is mounted in the sniffer (the copper and aluminum piece in the posts above) I'm hoping to use this sniffer, wideband combo on other motorcycles and toys to tune them.

I just shove one end of the sniffer down the exhaust pipe, put it a little ways down the collector so it reads a combination of the 4 cylinders. You can get a long tube and put it up each individual header pipe and tune each carb, but that's over kill IMO. Then I just clamp the sniffer on the end of the exhaust using a hose clamp and a rivited piece of aluminum bolted to the sniffer manifold. I cut the elastic part of a few socks off to make some protecting rings to put around the exhaust between the hose clamp so i didn't hurt the finish.

Connect switched power to the gauge and you're ready to go.

(in the video below you see version 1.0 of the sniffer)

 
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Good stuff. Do you have the part numbers of the stuff used for the afr kit? looking to do something like that my self as cheap as possible.

thanks Krank
 
I ordered an Innovate DB LC-1 gauge, just waiting for its arrival:)
I am going to semi-permanently mount it. I am thinking of welding the bung for the sniffer in the exhaust can before the silencer. There doesnt seem enough room to mount it in the header:confused:
I see you have the gauge mounted on the mirror stalk? With hose clamps?
 
gearhead13 said:
I ordered an Innovate DB LC-1 gauge, just waiting for its arrival:)
I am going to semi-permanently mount it. I am thinking of welding the bung for the sniffer in the exhaust can before the silencer. There doesnt seem enough room to mount it in the header:confused:
I see you have the gauge mounted on the mirror stalk? With hose clamps?
Click to expand...

I would suggest when you do plug chops you really want to record the AFR. Trying to watch what is happening while you are riding WOT (monitoring the road, tach, and the AFR is very difficult)

You want to be able ot set the main by wtaching the AFR as you go past redline. You are looking for a tell tale sign that AFR is rising from about 12.5:1 to know the mains are right. Hard to see that without the recorder.

You can just hook up a PC capable of running the logworks software to log the runs. I have a more elaborate setup but it was nice to be able to see the results road side so you can try different things. A steep long hill is a must and usually not right out the door.


You wanna watch out for air leaks where the header and the mid come together. The long tube on the sniffer gets up sream of that point and so any leaks are not a problem.
 
Hmmm. Yes might be tricky trying to glance at the gauge while riding full throttle:eek:
So I need to carry some kind of computer with a serial port:o. Maybe I should have gone for the LM-2. Or is there any other way of recording to a memory card:confused:
 
gearhead13 said:
Hmmm. Yes might be tricky trying to glance at the gauge while riding full throttle:eek:
So I need to carry some kind of computer with a serial port:o. Maybe I should have gone for the LM-2. Or is there any other way of recording to a memory card:confused:
Click to expand...

The best bet would be some type of computer to capture the serial stream. I used to work with serial data alot, so I'm pretty sure you should be able to just capture it with any serial capture program and open the file later with the Logworks 3.0 program. Or I think Logworks will record it directly as well. It is a little akward to setup but better that trying to do three things at WOT.

A serial cable to a PC would work if you can keep it from shutting down.
Datalog using LogWorks on your PC
Click to expand...

These LM-1 are older but very reliable; I have the LM-2 but it has problems with firmware if you want to be frustrated get the LM-2 else just stick with the LM-1. It records and allows replay using log works S/W you can down load the software for free..

http://www.amazon.com/Innovate-LM-1-Digital-Ratio-Meter/dp/B00117OU1G

you can also go more elaborate...................

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=161402&highlight=innovate

There should be a tuning proceedure written for the CV's. It is a bit different from the standard one described by Factory Pro.

Here is some reference AFR info

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=164565&highlight=innovate
 
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While it would be nice to log the data and have a chart in front of you, I have found that if you record the same run using a video camera on the same stretch of road at the same throttle position and then review the two videos and just watch the rpm vs AFR you can get a pretty good idea of what effects your changes had. Data logging would be better however if you have a camera and a way to mount it you should be able to get pretty close.

With the VM carbs when i would blip the throttle off idle it would yawn out. I thought that it was going lean because i was dropping the velocity of the air moving through the carb by opening the throat. I was surprised to see that I was going rich with the wideband hooked up. It was counter intuitive and a smaller set of pilots made it take throttle wonderfully.

The wideband is a invaluable tool!

I have a rich spot at 5500 that I can't get rid of. I'm beginning to think it may be because of my 4-1 pipe. I will post a video of it soon.

(i hope this isn't too hard to read just wrote it up quick before class.)
 
Nicholaschase29 said:
While it would be nice to log the data and have a chart in front of you, I have found that if you record the same run using a video camera on the same stretch of road at the same throttle position and then review the two videos and just watch the rpm vs AFR you can get a pretty good idea of what effects your changes had. Data logging would be better however if you have a camera and a way to mount it you should be able to get pretty close.

With the VM carbs when i would blip the throttle off idle it would yawn out. I thought that it was going lean because i was dropping the velocity of the air moving through the carb by opening the throat. I was surprised to see that I was going rich with the wideband hooked up. It was counter intuitive and a smaller set of pilots made it take throttle wonderfully.

The wideband is a invaluable tool!

I have a rich spot at 5500 that I can't get rid of. I'm beginning to think it may be because of my 4-1 pipe. I will post a video of it soon.

(i hope this isn't too hard to read just wrote it up quick before class.)
Click to expand...

My conclusion from screwing with my ED, is that you pretty much need about 10-15 seconds of steady throttle to get a read on the AFR. I watch RPM, and Vacume along with AFR to get an idea of where I'm at.

I have a long hill (2 mile 6% grade) about 1/2 hour from me which allowed me to do a 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and WOT run from the bottom of the hill before cresting the top. I start out in 3rd gear for example, hold 1/4 till it finds a maximum speed(hold 10 sec), roll off to indicate in the data that run, then slowly roll on to 1/2 and repeat the same process.

I carried a laptop with me so I could download the whole log file and view it. I was able to go back down to the bottom of the and redo to confirm the run.
 
I got my red DB gauge installed, and bought a cheap laptop with a serial port. Waiting for new battery for it.
The red LED gauge is real hard to see in the daytime:(
I am seeing the O2 drop below 12 with 1/4 to 1/2 throttle, and mid 13's at cruise. High 13's at idle.
No freaking way I could look down at it at full throttle/rpm:eek:
Cool little tuning tool.
 
Update on the bike.

when i re-torqued the head after break in the front left cylinder stud had pulled out. When torquing the heads the first time I could feel something was not quite right here. I didn't drive the bike much after that but it is now leaking a lot of oil on a easy ride to the grocery store and back. I don't want to let it sit like this over winter and I want to be hittin' the nos again go i'm going to be fixing it. The bike also got the extended swing arm mounted up, but it appears that the arm may be tweaked. I'll post pictures up later and maybe you guys can tell me if i'm doing something wrong. When i put the swingarm on i added a few teeth to the rear sprocket. Can you say burnout wheelies???!!!

More to come.....
 
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