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Oil Leak

  • Thread starter Thread starter Rocketman
  • Start date Start date
R

Rocketman

Guest
I changed the stator cover gasket on my '82 GS850L last year. No problems, and the job went smoothly. Lately, I'm noticing a slight amount of motor oil pooling near the red arrow in the picture below, right in the recess next to the flange where the 8mm bolt goes through the cover. It doesn't happen every ride, just every so often, and the blow-by makes it run along the flat surface on the top, then down the side of the rounded cover below. I really can't tell where its coming from, as it obviously only happens when I'm moving. Do you think its the stator gasket again, even though there's hardly any oil in it? Or do you think its the head, and if so, am I in for a lot of work changing that gasket? Photos below should help. Thanks.
1.jpg



2.jpg



3.jpg
 
One trick to finding oil leaks a member posted here is to clean the engine really well using degreaser, let dry, and spray some foot powder on the offending area. Start up the engine and then watch closely to find the leak source. Just guessing but on your bike the cylinder base gasket may be the source.

Good luck:)
 
Hi,

I've got a little leak in the exact same area. I'm planning to replace the base gasket (and associated O-rings), head gasket, valve seals, rings, and hone the cylinders this "winter". There's only 50K miles on Jessie but she should be good for another 100K when I'm done.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
After a detailed search I must concur. It is definitely the base gasket, however my bike only has 16,084 miles. Must be an age thing, rather than a mileage thing. I've read the procedure, and it really doesn't seem that difficult (famous last words!). I like Mike of BBG's procedure dated 3/20/11 here: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=172780&highlight=base+gasket.

It will get done, just not right away.
Thanks again!
 
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That may just be gasket sealer squished out from the seam..Like was mentioned before. Degreaqse the entire area and get some cheap spray on deodorant and spray it on the engine and start it with a couple good fans blowing on the engine.. Let it get plenty warmed up ( 15 minutes or so ) and just sit and watch the area. When the oil gets thin enought to weep it will start to show up in the white deodorant powder..
 
Hi,

I've been riding around for the last 6 months with a little diaper on Jessie.

P7090002.JPG


That is a Pig Pad cut into strips, rolled, and shoved between the stator cover, the starter cover, and the lowest fin. It keeps the oil from dribbling on my boot and leg armor. Thanks to renobruce for giving me a few while I was at his rally. They work great. I just used my last strip so I'm going to have to make do with shop towels or whatever I can find.

Don't bother trying to goop something on there to stop the leak. I've tried everything; RTV, epoxy, spray-a-gasket, etc. I'm going to have to replace the gaskets this winter. It should be fun. ;)


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
RE:
That may just be gasket sealer squished out from the seam
Click to expand...
...
It smells, tastes, looks and feels just like motor oil, and that's what I'm afraid it is.
I'm sure there will be more questions as the project starts in winter, but for now...I've read about re-torquing after 600 miles. Does that mean removing the valve cover, replacing the valve cover gasket a second time, and just re-torquing those bolts that hold down all the finned parts? I'm guessing the bolts go clear through the cylinder head and engine block? Also, because of the really low mileage, I see no need to do rings, valves, honing, etc. Just the base gasket is all. You guys all have much more mileage than I do, so it makes more sense for you to do this than me.
 
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Also, the headers haven't been off this bike in 30 years.
(1) What's the best product to spray/soak the bolts to aid in removal, rather than snapping?
(2) Better to try and remove the bolts with the bike hot or cold?
Thanks!
 
Never mind. Just read a thousand threads about heating the bolts red hot, and applying PB Blaster alternately for days before the bolt removal, and using a 1/4" drive to do so.
Thanks.
 
Hey Rocketman, is that a crack or casting mark on your upper crankcase half about an inch aft of where your oil is pooling? That was the first thing that caught my eye.
 
I saw it too, only after I enlarged the photo. I believe it to be a casting mark, as I've never seen anything leak out of it ever. I'll get a much better look once the parts are laid out all over my garage this winter.
 
Rocketman said:
RE: ...
It smells, tastes, looks and feels just like motor oil, and that's what I'm afraid it is.
I'm sure there will be more questions as the project starts in winter, but for now...I've read about re-torquing after 600 miles. Does that mean removing the valve cover, replacing the valve cover gasket a second time, and just re-torquing those bolts that hold down all the finned parts? I'm guessing the bolts go clear through the cylinder head and engine block? Also, because of the really low mileage, I see no need to do rings, valves, honing, etc. Just the base gasket is all. You guys all have much more mileage than I do, so it makes more sense for you to do this than me.
Click to expand...
First, if you don't have one already grab a copy of the Factory Service Manual off BassCliff's web site. It will explain how to torque the head; both the torque amount and the tightening sequence are important parameters.
Second, when you pull the cylinder block, you need to check the rings and cylinder bore. This will determine whether or not you need to do anything else. Replacing the valve stem seals (an absolute must) will provide the opportunity to lap the valves. While you are at it, rebuild the cam chain tensioner, it will be laying on your workbench anyway.
Then you should be gtg.
 
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