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On-board Voltmeter.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
Mekanix said:
What do you use for a permanent voltmeter on your GS?

I've got this in mind, it does current as well.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/20V-30A-DC-D..._Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item3a592e00d9
Click to expand...
Not that bad a unit, as long as you have somewhere to mount it. You will either need a fairing with a flat panel large enough to mount it or find a box to hold it. Waterproofing it might also be a problem.

Measuring current might be handy, but there are three areas of meaningful current flow on the bike. Which one do you want to measure?



Killer2600 said:
That ebay item looks good aside from the fact it's coming from china, the price is in pounds, and it doesn't look waterproof. Not sure what your going to measure with a 30A ampmeter :?:
Click to expand...
- Half of the stuff in the average American house comes from China.
- It also give the current approximation in US$
- 30 A is a good range for the GS, which has a max output of about 20-22 amps.

.
 
I don't run a volt meter, but I just put this on with my new dash to go with the Acewell:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/LED-MOTORCYC...cycle_Parts&hash=item2eb53d149e#ht_3605wt_952

He says to add some sealant if it's exposed to moisture, but my dash has a piece of acrylic perspex over the top so that's not a concern for me:

IMG_4689.jpg


I used a variable voltage source to test it before I installed it and according to both my multimeters it's accurate...
 
Steve said:
- Half of the stuff in the average American house comes from China.
- It also give the current approximation in US$
- 30 A is a good range for the GS, which has a max output of about 20-22 amps.

.
Click to expand...

That's nothing to be proud of but what I'm getting at is it's being shipped from china. Shipping fees and shipping times to get a cheap chinese voltmeter?

USD or CAN, it gave me CAN approx.

But what 30A max current are you going to install a shunt, 75mV voltage drop, resistor in series with to measure it's current? Not the battery I hope with the high starter current.
 
Killer2600 said:
That's nothing to be proud of but what I'm getting at is it's being shipped from china. Shipping fees and shipping times to get a cheap chinese voltmeter?

USD or CAN, it gave me CAN approx.

But what 30A max current are you going to install a shunt, 75mV voltage drop, resistor in series with to measure it's current? Not the battery I hope with the high starter current.
Click to expand...

That one has free shipping. It might take 15 days to get it but that's ok.

It was that or the 20A version. I figured why not go a little higher because I can draw up to 24A with all accessories on.

I would use the shunt for the total draw after the battery and RR to see what the accessories draw one at a time and all together :) It was more of a bonus anyways.
 
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Steve said:
Measuring current might be handy, but there are three areas of meaningful current flow on the bike. Which one do you want to measure?
Click to expand...

Killer2600 said:
But what 30A max current are you going to install a shunt, 75mV voltage drop, resistor in series with to measure it's current? Not the battery I hope with the high starter current.
Click to expand...

Mekanix said:
It was that or the 20A version. I figured why not go a little higher because I can draw up to 24A with all accessories on.

I would use the shunt for the total draw after the battery and RR to see what the accessories draw one at a time and all together :) It was more of a bonus anyways.
Click to expand...
The three areas I was mentioning do not include the starter draw. That has its own wire, so it's easy to avoid.

The output of the R/R (rectifier/regulator) joins the main harness between the battery and the ignition switch. The three legs of that "T" junction are possible locations for that meter.

1. On the output of the R/R, between R/R and the "T". This will tell you how much the charging system is putting out, but will never show a negative number, even if your R/R fails, so is virtually useless.
2. Between the "T" and the ignition switch. This will always have current going in one direction, should show a draw (negative) on the ammeter. Amount of negativity will depend on how many accessories are turned on. Will never show a positive number.
3. On the + lead of the battery. Before starting the bike, will show a discharge because the battery is supplying all the current for the bike. When the engine is running and the charging system is working, it will show how much current is charging the battery.

Personally, I would much rather have a voltmeter than an ammeter.
If you think of electricity as "electrical fuel", then compare having a flow meter and a fuel gauge, you will have this: would you rather know that you are using your fuel at 2 gallons per hour or that you have 1/4 tank left? Yeah, it's nice to know both items, but that 2 gallons per hour will remain constant right up until your tank runs dry. There is no warning that you are approaching "empty". With the fuel gauge (voltmeter, in this case), you can get an idea how much longer you can go.

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Voltmeter smoltmeter. Maintain your electrical system properly and forgetaboutit.
 
Steve said:
2. Between the "T" and the ignition switch. This will always have current going in one direction, should show a draw (negative) on the ammeter. Amount of negativity will depend on how many accessories are turned on. Will never show a positive number.
.
Click to expand...

An ammeter that reads negative is wired backwards, draw or consumption should be positive. Only a flow reverse of normal should be negative.
 
Killer2600 said:
An ammeter that reads negative is wired backwards, draw or consumption should be positive. Only a flow reverse of normal should be negative.
Click to expand...
Back in the old days, when cars had ammeters, they showd "Charge" and "Discharge", so were probably wired in the battery leg.

Any polarity indicators would be relative to what you are looking for.

Current flowing from the source to the load is current, but it's not charging, so I would call it "negative", not "positive".

It's your bike, wire it any way you want, call it anything you like.

I have run with both, ammeters and voltmeters on the same vehicle several different times, I prefer to simplify things and run just a voltmeter now. :D
Gonna simplify things even more and step out of this thread now.

.
 
Steve said:
Back in the old days, when cars had ammeters, they showd "Charge" and "Discharge", so were probably wired in the battery leg.

Any polarity indicators would be relative to what you are looking for.

Current flowing from the source to the load is current, but it's not charging, so I would call it "negative", not "positive".

It's your bike, wire it any way you want, call it anything you like.

I have run with both, ammeters and voltmeters on the same vehicle several different times, I prefer to simplify things and run just a voltmeter now. :D
Gonna simplify things even more and step out of this thread now.

.
Click to expand...

Your free to hookup a digital ammeter backwards or a analog charge/discharge ammeter but it wouldn't work for a analog multi-meter measuring current - the needle would peg below 0.

The only problem I have with your suggestion of hooking an ammeter between the source and load and having draw as negative is, in general, a load will never charge source so seeing negative numbers that never go positive looks odd. But hey if you want to read stuff backwards, your battery voltage is -12v and charges to ~-14v. Voltage drop would be positive. Your probably thinking doing that would be ludicrous, that's where I sit reading negative numbers on a current meter.
 
Killer2600 said:
The only problem I have with your suggestion of hooking an ammeter between the source and load and having draw as negative is, in general, a load will never charge source so seeing negative numbers that never go positive looks odd. But hey if you want to read stuff backwards, your battery voltage is -12v and charges to ~-14v. Voltage drop would be positive. Your probably thinking doing that would be ludicrous, that's where I sit reading negative numbers on a current meter.
Click to expand...
OK, I never suggested that as the ultimate location. I neglected to mention in my first post that location #3 would be my preferred location. That is, on the lead going to the battery + terminal. That would show you whether the alternator or the battery was supplying the current for the bike to run, and how much.

It is useful to see negative numbers if they really do mean that you are losing something, but hooking up a voltmeter backwards is simply ludicrous.

.
 
Steve said:
OK, I never suggested that as the ultimate location. I neglected to mention in my first post that location #3 would be my preferred location. That is, on the lead going to the battery + terminal. That would show you whether the alternator or the battery was supplying the current for the bike to run, and how much.

It is useful to see negative numbers if they really do mean that you are losing something, but hooking up a voltmeter backwards is simply ludicrous.

.
Click to expand...

As a charge meter in that situation it'd make sense else-wise it's looney. Ever try ohms law with negative numbers? You could end up with negative resistance, and to figure scientists are trying to find room temperature superconductors to achieve 0 ohms and here our 30 y/o GS's go beyond 0 ohm into the negatives. :lol:
 
Lol what have I started :rolleyes:

You guys are hilarious :)

The first way I'm going to wire it is so that I can see the total load being drawing from the bike for the accessories with both the battery and charging system as the supply.

That way I can see what I can and can't run continuously.

Its final place will be connected to show the current from the RR to the battery.

Most of the time it will be in voltmeter mode. The ammeter was just a bonus.
 
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