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Driving off the advance unit was my initial thought, but it's too fragile there. The flat starter blank casing is definitely right - as evidenced by those who've done it - as being strong enough.
It's relatively easy to do if I put up with the extra length of keeping the standard rotor, putting a bearing/seal in the existing case and mount a pulley externally. I'd like to keep the length short as possible though, so would ditch the rotor, use the pulley as flywheel and find / make a blanking plate that carries the starter idler. Of course, the simplest home solution would be carve up the standard case and mount a shortened end case on to it, but I have neither the machining or alloy welding kit here.
Given the design cross-over of similar Kwaks and Suzis of the age, I'm inclined to copy a Kwak conversion I saw a couple of weeks ago, where the owner had done the diy method (on a Z750, iirc) for exactly the same reasons as me.
The countershaft method would be a definite, if it was a chain drive bike.
There is a last drive-access option - akin to a bicycle dynamo... mount an as-needed high rpm model plane motor (in alternator configuration) on a drop-down drive pulley onto the rear tyre. I'm sure that will be fine
It's relatively easy to do if I put up with the extra length of keeping the standard rotor, putting a bearing/seal in the existing case and mount a pulley externally. I'd like to keep the length short as possible though, so would ditch the rotor, use the pulley as flywheel and find / make a blanking plate that carries the starter idler. Of course, the simplest home solution would be carve up the standard case and mount a shortened end case on to it, but I have neither the machining or alloy welding kit here.
Given the design cross-over of similar Kwaks and Suzis of the age, I'm inclined to copy a Kwak conversion I saw a couple of weeks ago, where the owner had done the diy method (on a Z750, iirc) for exactly the same reasons as me.
The countershaft method would be a definite, if it was a chain drive bike.
There is a last drive-access option - akin to a bicycle dynamo... mount an as-needed high rpm model plane motor (in alternator configuration) on a drop-down drive pulley onto the rear tyre. I'm sure that will be fine
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Driving off the advance unit was my initial thought, but it's too fragile there. The flat starter blank casing is definitely right - as evidenced by those who've done it - as being strong enough.
It's relatively easy to do if I put up with the extra length of keeping the standard rotor, putting a bearing/seal in the existing case and mount a pulley externally. I'd like to keep the length short as possible though, so would ditch the rotor, use the pulley as flywheel and find / make a blanking plate that carries the starter idler. Of course, the simplest home solution would be carve up the standard case and mount a shortened end case on to it, but I have neither the machining or alloy welding kit here.
Given the design cross-over of similar Kwaks and Suzis of the age, I'm inclined to copy a Kwak conversion I saw a couple of weeks ago, where the owner had done the diy method (on a Z750, iirc) for exactly the same reasons as me.
The countershaft method would be a definite, if it was a chain drive bike.
There is a last drive-access option - akin to a bicycle dynamo... mount an as-needed high rpm model plane motor (in alternator configuration) on a drop-down drive pulley onto the rear tyre. I'm sure that will be fine
Drop down off of the wheelie bar is a natural as well
do as suzuki did drive from countershaft sprocket
This is a clean install, but it is even more confusing. Does this not only charge when you are moving? You are total loss when sitting still.
I thought the GSXR's toke drive off of a drive gear off of the input side of the clutch? So when ever the bike is running it is charging.
yes oil cooled engines are driven off of a gear behind the basket gear.
I was wrong; it was a V-Strom
http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,15655.0.html
http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,15655.0.html
