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Pain(t) question.

  • Thread starter Thread starter ikantbreave
  • Start date Start date
Well....

Well....

Thanks Pete.

The rest of it kind of has me confuzzeled, I said "wetsand/buff" like that was gonna be easy. :p I did this like I have read here/watched on youtube. It did not turn out as expected so I ask the question, What is wrong with this picture? What do I need to do? I wetsanded with 1500 grit soapy water with a flexible sanding block (no pressure) then 2000 grit and then used a terry cloth sponge applicator using Meguiars Ultimate Compound, wiped clean with a clean terry cloth and then Meguiars Ultimate polish (terry cloth applicator) and then clean terry cloth. But still crappy finish.... :mad:

DSC02469.jpg
 
Bugger! I see what you mean.

Unfortunately I'm no help as I haven't started to tackle paint yet, but I can see it's gonna be a challenge...

Hopefully someone good with this stuff will be along to give you some tips...
 
I am not 100 percent sure but I think you will need an electric automotive buffer/polisher to get that out. Not that you did anything wrong but it would take hours polishing by hand to get the finish we all want.

Something like this, http://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-electronic-polisher-66615.html

But these can be the devil too if you don't know what you are doing and have the correct compounds
 
You don't need a buffer but it does make the work easier.

I think you need a real rubbing compound. That Meguiars Ultimate Compound may not have enough grit too it, or else you need to have another go at it. One way or another that is were I think your problem lies.
 
Need a cheap buffer? Go to the auto parts and pick up the 3M brand headlight restoration kit. It comes with some real nice goodies for the 19 bucks.

You get some 500 grit gold 3 inch pads, 800 grit finishing film, and the most important is the 3000 grit trizact pad and then a yellow buffing pad, plus a backing pad to go on your drill. The backing pad is hook and loop...

Now, looks like you got some orange peel there. If you are a beginner with the buffing, leave the 500 and 800 alone. Wet sand by hand and then use the Trizact pad. It is supposed to be used wet. Does a damn good job and the 3 inch pad with foam backer that comes in the 3m kit is just the right size for motorcycle parts.

Use the included waffle pad with some meguiars fine cut compound and then some meguiars swirl remover. Remember to ease up on pressure as you get to the end of each compounding cycle. Heavier pressure to cut and remove scratches, light pressure to polish.

Meguiars fine cut and swirl remover are deminishing abrasives. They go from cutting action to polishing action as the compound breaks down.


You can order different foam pads that will work with the hook and loop backer in the cheap 19 buck kit. 3M makes some 3 inch pads in various polishing levels and Meguiars makes some 4 inch that will all work with the hook and loop backer.

I am a big fan of the 3M perfect it system and the meguiars as well. The Trizact Clear Cut (1500 grit) and trizact 3000 pads for DA or the little 3 inch pads are SO EASY since they are foam backed. Makes wet sanding clear a DREAM! The trizact are EXPENSIVE... that is why I like the 3M headlight kit because it has one in it as well as the pad and other stuff..

Ken
 
On my 1000S I sanded with 2000, followed by Meguire's Fine Cut cleaner, and then Deep Crystal Polish. If you really want to do it up apply a glaze product to finish it all up. All the polishing was done by hand, which is what I recommend since it's safest. It's better to leave some orange peel than break though your clear so keep this in mind as you work.
 
I've just gone through this with my bike while testing, I just used 2000 wet, gave it a cut and then buffed it by hand, i think 1500 is just abit to harsh on a freshly painted surface. Thats just my opinion though.
 
It looks like you have a ton of clear on there. If you have at least 4 coats, you could probably sand it with 800 at this point until you see all those lumps of orange peel go away. You could sand on it all day with 2,000 and it's only going to do so much. You have to cut through it. Sand wet, then wipe dry, a LOT to constantly check your progress. When it's flat, follow that with 1000, then 1500 then 2000. There's no way you'll ever hand polish to the same shine that a buffer will do for you. I also use an electric drill with an adapter that accepts a stick-it wool pad for rubbing compound (tan in color, auto-grade), then a yellow foam pad with a medium (white) compound, then a black pad with a (blue) swirl remover. The three small pads and adapter are available at an auto paint store, along with the correct compounds. Anyone there should be able to point you in the right direction for the correct compounds. Auto store polishes and compounds just aren't the same. It's a tense and nail-biting process to rub something out correctly. I've been doing it for 35 years, and it still makes me nervous. Everything you've done up to that point is at risk of going to hell by burning through..but done correctly, it's what makes the finish.
 
ill tell ya a funny story, when i sanded past my clearcoat and tried to polish it with the drill it came out crappy and dull, months went by and i dropped some oil on the tank by accident... got some more motor oil and a rag and rubbed the entire tank down! The friggin thing was SO shiny hahaha and it stayed like that for quite some time!
 
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