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Petcock question....is this normal?

  • Thread starter Thread starter loud et
  • Start date Start date
L

loud et

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I only have had to deal with the 80' leverless petcocks before. On the leverless petcock, the fuel line port a brass tube cast right into the body. This is on my new 650E.
photobucket-25717-1351526368243.jpg

If I push this main fuel line L into the petcock body it sort of goes on tight like a tapered hole/friction fit. I push it in and give it a little twist at the same it ends up nice and tight, but it just seems wrong to have a design like that. Seems like it could possible wiggle loose. Has no o ring or sealant or anything.
Is this oem?
 
The '81 and '82 petcocks have different part numbers.
That's looks like the one in the '81 parts fiche, but they don't show a good pic in the '82 parts fiche.
No, I do not think it is normal for that part to come off, I do believe that's a pressed fit assembly and it just worked it's way loose.
Fiche for '81.
http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fich...y=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1981&fveh=2127

Fiche for '82.
http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fich...y=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1981&fveh=2127

You need to secure it somehow with some gas proof sealer. I don't know if I'd trust JB weld. If I didn't think I could find a really good way to secure it and gas proof it, I'd seriously consider replacing it. The last thing you would ever want it fuel flowing freely on a hot engine :eek:.
 
Me on the phone calling some friends-
Me- "Hey John, its Adam...do you have any sleeve retainer I can use?"

John- " WTF is sleeve retainer?"

lol , I am surely not going to dish out 17 bucks for this product....what are the alternatives? Sonething I have in the garage must work.
 
Agreed Steve, I want to use some product to seal it but am hesitant on the risk. And yes, I saw the fisches but ya cant really tell much from them.
 
The stock petcock had both vac and fuel line facing rear (correct replacement does also). These petcock bodies can also be finished with fuel fitting pointing opposite -one side gets plugged and other gets pressed in fitting.
 
Thanks for the info, I found a small tube of the stuff. Just have to go half hour to get it.:mad: Another day maybe. ha
 
LOud et,

make sure the fitting and hole are meticliously clean (it is not in the photo)
Put the fitting in the freezer for a at least half hour,
support the other side and whack it in with a piece of wood or small soft hammer.

it wont come out, its a slightly tapered press fit from factory.
you can use the goo but its not nesscessary.
 
LOud et,

make sure the fitting and hole are meticliously clean (it is not in the photo)
Put the fitting in the freezer for a at least half hour,
support the other side and whack it in with a piece of wood or small soft hammer.

it wont come out, its a slightly tapered press fit from factory.
you can use the goo but its not nesscessary.
Thx, seeing that I have not done anything yet, maybe I will give it a try.
 
So many come loose, I just smack them back in but can never really trust it after, and they do seem to come loose again. I would rather solder it in or use some type of goop that fuel won't loosen up.....

Will solder stick to this metal?
 
I bet it would take solder. I am a sheet metal worker and have soldered copper, lead, galvanized, and stainless steel.
I doubt I will try it on this, but if I do , I will let ya know.
A few wacks with a hammer sounds a lot easier.
 
its alloy, you might find it dosnt take solder so easilly. (not impossible)

or try expoxy glue.

or take to to a shop and have them press it on with several tons of pressure.


the idea with the freezer comment is to shink it so its just that little it tighter, than it would be by wacking alone. you could expand the housing too. (watch fuel fire)
 
its alloy, you might find it dosnt take solder so easilly. (not impossible)

or try expoxy glue.

or take to to a shop and have them press it on with several tons of pressure.


the idea with the freezer comment is to shink it so its just that little it tighter, than it would be by wacking alone. you could expand the housing too. (watch fuel fire)

I could press it too, but don't think it will withstand several tons of pressure.
 
Well after reading the posts from the two of you I will clean the male and female parts, apply some form of fuel resistant epoxy and twist/push the parts together. I may give it a slight squeeze in the vise.
As they sit, when I dry fit them with a slight twist the L almost bottoms out into the body, so with the epoxy which will act as a lube, a quick pinch in the vise should fully seat it.
I will safety wire it also. This way I can keep an eye on it and if a drip develops I can call it a failure and just garbage can it. At least the wire will keep the whole thing from popping out. Any drip that may develop would likely just be a hanging drop and that will clue me in to its failure. The wire will keep it from and catastrophic falling out.
This season is 99 percent over, this petcock will not see any real use till spring. I will put a little gas in the tank to test petcock and run the bike a little., I just put the rebuilt carbs on it last night and fired it with an "IV tank".
Fired nicely but have some tuning to do.
I just picked this one up for a project. Seems solid.
 
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