Picked this up Saturday GS1000G

[eddypeck]

It shows 140 mph on the speedo. And sits nicely at 70 at 4.5k revs. So I'm theory at the 9k redline it could reach the book speed of 139 mph. Lol. I don't fancy my chances.

feels like it could do with another gear though, haven't had a five speed since my fzr 1000.

I thought that was the air caps I was looking at on the forks. Is there some kind of connection under the dome nut? Is it like a bicycle pump fitting?

 

[80GS850GBob]

-140mph...not the usual speedo, but if it works, that's the upgrade unit you'd want!
-The fork tops have a valve on each side, covered with a screw on cap...said caps cover the schrader valve on each side....think car tire valves. Go real easy on filling them with air - use a bicycle hand pump and short strokes - they only need 10-15psi of air each side...too much can blow a seal.
-Salty_monk {Dan} is right though...keeping the pair of fork tubes even in pressure can be a regular task sometimes {worn seals/hard jolts}...if the pressure gets too off between each side the front forks will handle weird and too low or no air and the front end will nose dive often during braking {annoying}.
To forget the air thing all together and install better springs and fork oil and you'll never have to monkey with fork air again....food for thought.
Dan also makes a nice conversion package that upgrades the front brakes to better stopping...some folks have good braking with oem hardware, but I've found that set up isn't enough for me {read- slightly spirited riding...hehehe}. I have his set up on mine and love it and it is a big improvement. Try yours and see how you feel about it.....your bike/your call.

...sometimes I could agree about a 6th gear, but she's loaf around too much then...a simple roll on and your off and running in top gear. She comes alive around 7500rpm till redline.

 

[eddypeck]

So if the 140 clocks aren't original that means I have no real idea what the mileage is, which is a shame as I was happy with the 43000 showing... (now just over 43200 - been having a great week).

I was reading up on the air forks and understood it as being a bicycle pump job so thanks for confirming the process, I think my lad has a hand pump with a PSI gauge. I also read to keep it away from the compressor.... glad I read that.

Although is there anyway to know if a previous owner may have already changed the springs and filled with oil? Is it as simple as oil will come out of the valves? lol ???

I have experienced a bit of bouncing on the front so do need to check they're even, this was much worse with the Vetter fairing, removing the 10.4kg from over the front wheel has greatly improved handling and stability - the opposite of what they claim. So maybe there is an issue that was made more evident.

I've 'tested' the brakes and yes, I'd like a bit more there, I'm used to modern sports bikes so the front breaking on my last bike was helped out by 12 pistons! But they're not as bad as they could be - I recently sold a 1971 VW Beetle, you had to plan your stopping before you started your journey in that thing.

I have briefly taken it up to speed and it goes well, at present still just pootling around bonding with it.

 

[Gorminrider]

I gave up on air forks pretty quick. Firstly, they are difficult to get the same...(why didn't Suzuki connect them together like Hondas do?) and you need a gauge that measures low-pressure...I realized anyways that ALL forks are air-forks so adding a bit more fork oil does a similar thing by shrinking the available airspace in the stanchion albeit not so convenient. as changing it with a bicycle pump...but not so likely to blow through the seals either ..
I would change the forkoil out right away if it looks at all dirty (there are drain screws on lower tubes (see manual!) "10w" fork oil is what I use in all my bikes now but atf+motoroil works ok or otherwise per manual... and do check the level from the top-( springs out, stanchions compressed)

Also,per your complaint about brakes, ...if you find new fork oil in your inspection, it's an idea to look carefully at your pads ...it's my experience that where the PO has had fork seals replaced ,brake pads that got oiled from the leaking forkspads are often contaminated with fork oil and weren't replaced...

 

[80GS850GBob]

So if the 140 clocks aren't original that means I have no real idea what the mileage is, which is a shame as I was happy with the 43000 showing... (now just over 43200 - been having a great week).

...hey, if the PO changed out the speedo early on in the bikes life, the reading could still be accurate, and if it was changed even somewhat recently the shown mileage could be less than shown!

I was reading up on the air forks and understood it as being a bicycle pump job so thanks for confirming the process, I think my lad has a hand pump with a PSI gauge. I also read to keep it away from the compressor.... glad I read that.

...oh yeah, stay away from any electric air compressors when trying to fill fork air.

Although is there anyway to know if a previous owner may have already changed the springs and filled with oil? Is it as simple as oil will come out of the valves? lol ???

I have experienced a bit of bouncing on the front so do need to check they're even, this was much worse with the Vetter fairing, removing the 10.4kg from over the front wheel has greatly improved handling and stability - the opposite of what they claim. So maybe there is an issue that was made more evident.

...A}, probably not changed....B} the added weight of the fairing will affect spongy forks even more. A set of Sonic springs will do a world of good for those forks - just get the right rate for the bike, your accessories {if any} and your weight.

I've 'tested' the brakes and yes, I'd like a bit more there, I'm used to modern sports bikes so the front breaking on my last bike was helped out by 12 pistons! But they're not as bad as they could be - I recently sold a 1971 VW Beetle, you had to plan your stopping before you started your journey in that thing.

...Lol, original quad lockheed non self adjusting drums on my old Plymouth...but I'd just cruise slow and easy in it since she's anything but a speed demon.

I have briefly taken it up to speed and it goes well, at present still just pootling around bonding with it.

...some folks do just that.....slow cruises on their GSs and the oem brakes are ok for that. Those of us who like a spirited ride, from time to time, want better stopping.

Can you contact the PO and ask the full, known, history on the bike?, at least as long as they've owned it. Original owners are great for finding these things out, but changing hands multiple times or "I bought it but didn't do anything with it" doesn't help ya much....
I'd suggest doing a compression check, change all fluids, fresh brakes and filters, check valve clearances and look over the brake lines and tires well to see if they're dry rotted or old.....

 

[80GS850GBob]

I gave up on air forks pretty quick. Firstly, they are difficult to get the same...(why didn't Suzuki connect them together like Hondas do?) and you need a gauge that measures low-pressure...I realized anyways that ALL forks are air-forks so adding a bit more fork oil does a similar thing by shrinking the available airspace in the stanchion albeit not so convenient. as changing it with a bicycle pump...but not so likely to blow through the seals either ..
I would change the forkoil out right away if it looks at all dirty (there are drain screws on lower tubes (see manual!) "10w" fork oil is what I use in all my bikes now but atf+motoroil works ok or otherwise per manual... and do check the level from the top-( springs out, stanchions compressed)

Also,per your complaint about brakes, ...if you find new fork oil in your inspection, it's an idea to look carefully at your pads ...it's my experience that where the PO has had fork seals replaced ,brake pads that got oiled from the leaking forkspads are often contaminated with fork oil and weren't replaced...

They did connect the air fork fills....for the later E models. One can do it for these bikes via brass blocks and a cross tube, but it's hideous looking {imho}..

 

[salty_monk]

Changing the oil & the forks in the springs is easy.... Even changing the seals isn't hard as you can remove the clip on the top & just pump air in through the valve with a compressor until it goes "pop" (and oil sprays everywhere at that point unless you have it covered with a rag... Sometimes takes 100PSI to get them out if it hasn't been done for ages).

If you're on a budget, pull the springs out, cut off the closely wound section (should be about 3" or so of spring) and sand it to make it as close to flat on the end as you can. Then get some Water pipe (they call is Schedule 40 here, can't remember what it is in the UK but it's thick walled ABS white pipe) and replace whatever you cut off with water pipe (or you can replace the length of the stock spacers with the water pipe too. - if You want to leave the stock spacers put a washer in between them and the water pipe).
Put it all back together & measure your static sag. You want about 35mm from memory on that fork. You may need to add more or less spacer to get it (adding or taking away pre-load).

If you are on the heavier side & don't intend to put cartridge emulators in you may want 15w oil but 10w does most.

There are Haynes manuals around for download - also Clymer which is a US equivalent. Pretty useful.

 

[eddypeck]

I'll continue this on this thread here: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?249285-1980-81-GS1000G-US-Spec-UK-import

I gather this is the area mainly for introductions so I won't carry on updating this post.

Thanks for reading and commenting so far. It's a great forum.