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piston fun :(

no failures eh? ever? yeah like we all believe that. the tip I gave away freely is true. bad information is the easiest to get.
if the circlip is at 12 and 6 it works like a self lock inside the groove-both ends pushing outward together. anywhere else and the flex of going up and down will pop it right out of the groove one side against another-like a spring. try squeezing one like a c and then squeeze one right on the opening. my point will stick right into your finger. it is a true engine building detail.

20 years and never worried about where the circlip opening is? next you probably like to put the top ring opening gap at 12 and 6 o'clock too??

which is also a no no it is called the thrust surface...

this has been trippivot's believe it or not-


Agemax said:
why? a circlip in a groove, installed correctly will not pop out just because its not facing the right way. where did this information come from? i have been building bike engines for over 20 years now and have never worried about where the circlip sits and have had no failures yet!
Click to expand...
 
trippivot said:
no failures eh? ever? yeah like we all believe that. the tip I gave away freely is true. bad information is the easiest to get.
if the circlip is at 12 and 6 it works like a self lock inside the groove-both ends pushing outward together. anywhere else and the flex of going up and down will pop it right out of the groove one side against another-like a spring. try squeezing one like a c and then squeeze one right on the opening. my point will stick right into your finger. it is a true engine building detail.

20 years and never worried about where the circlip opening is? next you probably like to put the top ring opening gap at 12 and 6 o'clock too??

which is also a no no it is called the thrust surface...
this has been trippivot's believe it or not-
Click to expand...
believe it or not mate, upto you, you are talking crap. a circlip in a machined groove, fitted properly will not pop out, it is not under any stress or thrust unlike a piston ring, which i agree should be fitted in the correct position.
 
Can we get back on track here. Go start a circle clip thread ;). What has been done has been done, I need to figure out the extent of damage and the remedies. The current topics are:

1. How bad is the scoring of the small end surfaces and is it a problem and how to fix it.

2. Will the pistons labeled pistons 2 in the photo link work as a replacement for the current pistons (ie. pistons1 image)? Pistons2 came out of a 1000 kat but the tops look differant.

For what it's worth I'll install my clips at 12 o'clock to be safe and install my rings like the book sez.
 
trippivot said:
no failures eh? ever? yeah like we all believe that. the tip I gave away freely is true. bad information is the easiest to get.
if the circlip is at 12 and 6 it works like a self lock inside the groove-both ends pushing outward together. anywhere else and the flex of going up and down will pop it right out of the groove one side against another-like a spring. try squeezing one like a c and then squeeze one right on the opening. my point will stick right into your finger. it is a true engine building detail.

20 years and never worried about where the circlip opening is? next you probably like to put the top ring opening gap at 12 and 6 o'clock too??

which is also a no no it is called the thrust surface...

this has been trippivot's believe it or not-
Click to expand...
I choose not.

If your circlips are so worn out as to be influenced by the acceleration of the piston, then you've got problems of a different sort. It's called bad components.

I don't suppose you have a link that you can post that backs up your claims? I'd accept some from top notch engine builders.
 
98d1158920230-kindergartens-oerlikon-zurich-hijack.gif



1. How bad is the scoring of the small end surfaces and is it a problem and how to fix it?

2. Will the pistons labeled pistons 2 in the photo link work as a replacement for the current pistons (ie. pistons1 image)? Pistons2 came out of a 1000 kat but the tops look differant.
 
first timer said:
Can we get back on track here. Go start a circle clip thread ;). What has been done has been done, I need to figure out the extent of damage and the remedies. The current topics are:

1. How bad is the scoring of the small end surfaces and is it a problem and how to fix it.

2. Will the pistons labeled pistons 2 in the photo link work as a replacement for the current pistons (ie. pistons1 image)? Pistons2 came out of a 1000 kat but the tops look differant.

For what it's worth I'll install my clips at 12 o'clock to be safe and install my rings like the book sez.
Click to expand...
I've been loosely following this, so here's my opinion.

1) It looks as if the bad piston was installed that way. I don't see how a chunk can break off and not harm the cylinder, nor be found somewhere in your engine.

2) It also appears that all of the pistons are not the same. This is bad. The issue isn't just realted to diameters, skirt lengths, and wrist pin locations, but the mass of the pistons must be matched.

3) The rod small ends can be easilly reconditioned if they don't look good. You'll need to pull the crank, which is probably a good idea anyway. You've gone this far anyway, do it right and split the cases.

Once the motor is completely dissassembled you can install new oil seals, which you probably need anyway.

4) Get a new, matched set of pistons. Pitch the others or use as ashtrays.

Install the circlips whatever way makes you feel comfortable. lol
 
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