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piston ridge/scuff in bore

  • Thread starter Thread starter mistertoadie
  • Start date Start date
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mistertoadie

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This is the bore for the number 2 piston. Only a third of the 2nd ring was still in the groove. the rest went out through the exhaust from the looks of the valves. I guess this is why it was smoking so bad out the left exhaust.:rolleyes:. I haven't even taken the block to anyone as I am planning on grabbing a block and piston kit together. Not sure how big I'd have to go with a bore to get that ridge out. It's a deep mutha. P.O. said the motor was seized when he bought it and he managed to get it freed up. The piston aside from being missing 1/3 of a ring had no damage. It was alot cleaner than the other three like it had been washed of carbon, maybe from all the crap he was pouring into it to free it, but the valves and plug on that cyl. were BLACK! The rest of the head looks awesome. Replacing those four valves and rebuilding carbs now. Hope to order big bore kit soon.
 
You could just run a hone down it and see if it cleans up, but, as Ed says, To measure is to know.

If you're determined to go with larger pistons, it'll likely bore out.

Just a reminder (not to you) to not force stuck pistons and rings!
 
I have a brand new set of Wiseco 75 mm bore pistons. That would be a 3 mm overbore & give you 1166 ccs of raw GS power! LOL!!! You can save money & use the block you have now instead of buying another block. Let me know if you are interested. It would come with the pistons, wrist pins, rings, & clips for $450.00 + shipping. Ray.
 
Thanks Ray, I'll have to see if 3 mm will be enough to take that ridge out and what it will cost. I can get the 1166 block and piston kit together for $630.00 plus shipping but I'm not sure if I'll get a good set sight unseen. Takin a chance on the internet can be a scary proposition.
 
You could also find a good used piston and cyl liner for just the one bore. If the other three check Ok
 
mistertoadie said:
Thanks Ray, I'll have to see if 3 mm will be enough to take that ridge out and what it will cost. I can get the 1166 block and piston kit together for $630.00 plus shipping but I'm not sure if I'll get a good set sight unseen. Takin a chance on the internet can be a scary proposition.
Click to expand...
Are those pistons at that price new or USED? You can have your block bored for 50 a hole, so 200 & your block, my NEW pistons at 450 & you are at 650 for NEW pistons & new bore! Well, + shipping the pistons but that's like 20-25 bucks max there. You will have all new & KNOWN parts where if you buy used pistons, well let's say crap shoot at best with those. Ray.
 
That price is for a used block bored decked and chamfered with a new wiseco piston kit,rings,pins and clips.
 
I'm tryin' i'm tryin'! lol. I need more parts than I can afford at the moment. Goin' nuts starin at it in the garage. At least it's getting alot cleaner from my boredom I keep finding things to clean but then I end up disassembling something else and need MORE parts!
 
After much hemming and hawing and with input from the local machinist, I've decided to resleeve the offending cylinder and give them all a hone and put new rings on the original pistons. Mostly for economical reasons, but also because I'm not sure I would like the way it runs with a bore kit in it. I've heard stories of vibration and higher temps and I don't believe my crank is welded so I'd rather not stress it even further. I know I love the way they run stock with a pipe and pods, so I'll be happy with that, if I don't screw up the reassembly. This way I can still bore it in the future if need be.

The carbs are being rebuilt and jetted(still) and the four valves from the afflicted cylinder being replaced (still) But I did manage to get a new oil filter and o-ring and mounted a set of chrome superbike bars. :p

Anyone tell me which gaskets should or shouldn't be dressed and with what?? I'v got a haynes manual that details this but thought there may be better ways on here with all the experience herein.
 
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