polishing Clutch Cover Case

[KEITH KRAUSE]

retrex, yes the cases are polished aluminum as are the forks, etc. As for any polishing secrets, I don't have any.
I simply started visiting websites and gathering info. I chose to buy products from www.eastwood.com
Then I just practiced. I will admit my cases were in decent shape and not pitted/severly corroded, so I didn't have much learning/work to do with sanding. They were just losing the clearcoating in places and some scratches from years of use. After stripping the clearcoat with stripper, two compounds and various buffs did the rest.
You just have to practice with different buff speeds, buffs, how much compound to apply, when to clean the buff or replace, how much pressure to use...
The problem I see in your post is you say after buffing, you finish it off with Semi-chrome. You can get a decent shine with Semi-chrome, mothers, Blue Magic...but you can't get the aluminum to "color" up like you can with a buff. That's because HEAT plays a big part in the best shine. Your hand can't simulate the speed/heat of a buffer. Always complete the job with a buff. Experiment with speeds, buffs, etc, as I said.
One other quick thought that many don't follow...always buff at a 90 degree angle from the previous pass. This avoids fine scratches and the extra work to keep removing them.
And as for the question about the site glass, don't remove it. You can easily double tape it from buff damage. Be careful around it.

 

[BriTXbike]

Well I got down to the Polish wheels with the drill this afternoon and a question for those that have used them. I bought black, brown, rogue, and Mother's White polish. What's the best way to prevent contaminating the other polish sticks? I've made allot of progress but this is new area for me. So far it has turned out quite well though.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Well I got down to the Polish wheels with the drill this afternoon and a question for those that have used them. I bought black, brown, rogue, and Mother's White polish. What's the best way to prevent contaminating the other polish sticks? I've made allot of progress but this is new area for me. So far it has turned out quite well though.

You just reminded me of another of the basic rules with polishing...
never-never mix compounds. Always use each compound with its own buff. You need more buffs, but this is necessary.
Trying to use your rake to remove the previous compound to use another on the same buff also minimizes the buffs life and takes more time. Buy extra buffs dedicated to each compound.

 

[BriTXbike]

Yes I did buy separate wheels for each compound, remembered from my car detailing days, but after lacquering the metal after using black and moving to brown I still got allot of black on the wheel. I know some is from the polish taking out the tarnish of the metal but I just wanted to make sure. Also is it the same to use Mothers in place of a standard white polish? I know the Mothers has some additives but they are of the same polish level?

 

[retrex]

retrex, yes the cases are polished aluminum ... After stripping the clearcoat with stripper, two compounds and various buffs did the rest. You just have to practice with different buff speeds, buffs, how much compound to apply, when to clean the buff or replace, how much pressure to use...The problem I see in your post is you say after buffing, you finish it off with Semi-chrome. You can get a decent shine with Semi-chrome, mothers, Blue Magic...but you can't get the aluminum to "color" up like you can with a buff. That's because HEAT plays a big part in the best shine. Your hand can't simulate the speed/heat of a buffer. Always complete the job with a buff. Experiment with speeds, buffs, etc, as I said. One other quick thought that many don't follow...always buff at a 90 degree angle from the previous pass. This avoids fine scratches and the extra work to keep removing them.

Thanks Keith, I'll give it another try using the above info. BTW can you list what compounds and buffs you are using from Eastwoods? I think that the ones that I have been using aren't of Eastword quality and that may be a contributing factor to my just ok shine.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Yes I did buy separate wheels for each compound, remembered from my car detailing days, but after lacquering the metal after using black and moving to brown I still got allot of black on the wheel. I know some is from the polish taking out the tarnish of the metal but I just wanted to make sure. Also is it the same to use Mothers in place of a standard white polish? I know the Mothers has some additives but they are of the same polish level?

Maybe it's too early in the morning, but I'm not clear on what you mean about "laquering the metal and so on..." I thought you meant you may have mixed compounds on the same buff in your earlier post.
As for the polish level of Mothers vs Eastwood, I can't say because I've never compared them. I just know that Eastwoods products work well for me. I'm ordering some more stuff today in fact. I also use their products on my Blazers mags.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

retrex, yes the cases are polished aluminum ... After stripping the clearcoat with stripper, two compounds and various buffs did the rest. You just have to practice with different buff speeds, buffs, how much compound to apply, when to clean the buff or replace, how much pressure to use...The problem I see in your post is you say after buffing, you finish it off with Semi-chrome. You can get a decent shine with Semi-chrome, mothers, Blue Magic...but you can't get the aluminum to "color" up like you can with a buff. That's because HEAT plays a big part in the best shine. Your hand can't simulate the speed/heat of a buffer. Always complete the job with a buff. Experiment with speeds, buffs, etc, as I said. One other quick thought that many don't follow...always buff at a 90 degree angle from the previous pass. This avoids fine scratches and the extra work to keep removing them.

Thanks Keith, I'll give it another try using the above info. BTW can you list what compounds and buffs you are using from Eastwoods? I think that the ones that I have been using aren't of Eastword quality and that may be a contributing factor to my just ok shine.

Yes, some makers compounds are not as good as others.
The only two compounds I've used from Eastwood are "Tripoli" and "White Rouge". Tripoli is a coarser/more aggressive compound used with tighter sewn buffs. I haven't had to use that much at all.
The white rouge brings out the high shine and color. Use this with loose sewn (very soft) buffs.
Check out their website or others to learn more about buffs. I'm not sure what you're using but there are different buffs too that give a brighter shine. Experiment with speeds too. Also, about 2 lbs pressure on the buff gives best results for final polishing.

 

[Hoomgar]

Re: Niiiccce

Re: Niiiccce

OBTW there is a spot of ugly on your front cam cover. :lol: :lol:

LOL!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


The bike is perfect Retrex, it can't help those kinds of blemishes :twisted:

It was the lesser of two evils. If I took the shot straight on you'd get about 5 ugly spots.

:mrgreen: :twisted: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[retrex]

Re: Niiiccce

Re: Niiiccce

OBTW there is a spot of ugly on your front cam cover. :lol: :lol:

LOL!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


The bike is perfect Retrex, it can't help those kinds of blemishes :twisted:

It was the lesser of two evils. If I took the shot straight on you'd get about 5 ugly spots.

:mrgreen: :twisted: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Hmmm that being the case, I suppose then if I ever want post a pic of my bike I had better not use Keith's and Duane's polishing techniques. I would not want to tarnish the image of my beauty with Ogre face (mine)stains on the shiney parts.

 

[BriTXbike]

Anybody have a specific brand clear coat they picked up at their local auto store? I just finished the piece I've been working on and when I went to spray the clear coat it takes away ALLOT of the luster it had. It is Dupli-Color T125. I'm thinking I got the wrong product. :?:

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

From my experience, clearcoating takes away quite a bit of the shine. That's why I only apply wax to mine. Polishing is work but I'd rather do that than sit on the couch munching chips.
For what it's worth, my latest Eastwood magazine came in and on the cover they claim to have a clearcoat that doesn't diminish the shine of polished aluminum. Check out their website and see what you think.
www.eastwood.com
If you try it and it works, pass it on. That would be a glorious day! :lol:

 

[BriTXbike]

I would have to agree with you Keith and I may just strip the piece and leave it as is since I finished the the piece with Mothers. What kind of wax do you finish it with?

Were you referring to the Product Zoop in the catalog? I found it searching online and it looks like it might work but rather expensive.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I would have to agree with you Keith and I may just strip the piece and leave it as is since I finished the the piece with Mothers. What kind of wax do you finish it with?

Were you referring to the Product Zoop in the catalog? I found it searching online and it looks like it might work but rather expensive.

Yes. It's called Zoop seal. I didn't bother to note the cost but it's not permanent either. They claim it lasts for two years. I generally polish about twice a year so it may be worth it by saving you time but I'll just stay with what I'm doing for now. Might be a good "birthday gift" to try though for the man who already has everything?
As far as I've seen, any good wax will work. Waxing will help the shine last longer between polishing.
Be prepared for the work if you want the shine to be at its best. Even in my drier climate and parked in the garage with blankets every night, I need to polish roughly twice a year. Otherwise, cloudiness starts. My drill mounted buffs get to about 90% of the work, the rest is the 'ol fingers. :lol:

 

[Hoomgar]

I would have to agree with you Keith and I may just strip the piece and leave it as is since I finished the the piece with Mothers. What kind of wax do you finish it with?

Were you referring to the Product Zoop in the catalog? I found it searching online and it looks like it might work but rather expensive.

Yes. It's called Zoop seal. I didn't bother to note the cost but it's not permanent either. They claim it lasts for two years. I generally polish about twice a year so it may be worth it by saving you time but I'll just stay with what I'm doing for now. Might be a good "birthday gift" to try though for the man who already has everything?
As far as I've seen, any good wax will work. Waxing will help the shine last longer between polishing.
Be prepared for the work if you want the shine to be at its best. Even in my drier climate and parked in the garage with blankets every night, I need to polish roughly twice a year. Otherwise, cloudiness starts. My drill mounted buffs get to about 90% of the work, the rest is the 'ol fingers. :lol:

Wow! Hats off to you mate! Never gonna happen. I'll opt for a stock sealed finish that I can wash once a year during my bike washing ritual. I'll admit to being lazy Lazy LAZY!!!!! when it comes to cleaning my bikes or cars. I guess I am not old enough yet :lol:

I ride ride ride, and then wipe off the bulk with a rag and discard it. Clean only as needed. Then get dirty :twisted:


I do truly admire and even envy you guys who have what it takes to do this. Your bike is your reward. Very nice Keith.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Thanks Mark. Polishing isn't that big a deal to me, or keeping the bike sharp. I don't know if this makes any sense, but doing cosmetic work is something that's not too technical and you can actually relax doing it. And unlike some maintenance work, you get to see the results and feel good about it. The payoff for the labor is worth it and it helps make the bike different from others.