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Poor Cold Start

  • Thread starter Thread starter PAULJAC47
  • Start date Start date
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PAULJAC47

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Any advice on this problem would be much appreciated.Starting my 1982 gs1000g from cold is very poor ,once started fine,I have cleaned and set carbs as per excellent series on resource site.It seems to me that carbs are getting too much fuel as when you do get bike started if you pull choke out again revs rise briefly and bike cuts out,(so i guess choke is working as revs rise).The bike did start ok from cold when i got it but was flooding into airbox (float valves) and petcock was passing without engine running,both now cured,i have cleaned all jets and choke pickups in bowls,diaphragms are fine,slides all free,cables free and set correctly,mix screws set 1.5 turns out from bottoming.Had these carbs apart three times now.any ideas guys........
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...me thinks lean...

...me thinks lean...

PAULJAC47 said:
Any advice on this problem would be much appreciated.Starting my 1982 gs1000g from cold is very poor ,once started fine,I have cleaned and set carbs as per excellent series on resource site.It seems to me that carbs are getting too much fuel as when you do get bike started if you pull choke out again revs rise briefly and bike cuts out,(so i guess choke is working as revs rise).The bike did start ok from cold when i got it but was flooding into airbox (float valves) and petcock was passing without engine running,both now cured,i have cleaned all jets and choke pickups in bowls,diaphragms are fine,slides all free,cables free and set correctly,mix screws set 1.5 turns out from bottoming.Had these carbs apart three times now.any ideas guys........
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Click to expand...

That to me sounds as if the choke circuits are still plugged or you have air leakes causing it to run lean.. It should run with the choke all the way out only with the RPM's hitting the 3000-4000 range. It sounds as if it is leaning out. If it were rich, it would tend to start better as the outsides temps dropped.
 
Did you replace the intake boot O-rings and check the valve clearances? Also, in my experience, 1.5 turns is not enough - you should adjust the screws to obtain highest idle which typically winds out at 2 - 2.5 turns.
 
Hey howdy hey!

Hey howdy hey!

Mr. PAULJAC47,

Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that good standing can be improved with pictures (not you, your bike)! :-D

I see this was posted in the Announcements section. I'm glad you found the right section to ask your technical/mechanical questions. Having the carburetors properly tuned is very important but, as Mr. TheCafeKid and Mr. Steve recommended (and I concur), a valve adjustment is highly recommended as your symptoms are indicative of tight valves.

In addition to carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the garage section via the GSR Hompage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing valve adjustments and other routine maintenance tasks. Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr.

Thanks for joining us.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
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