Pre-storage maintenance?

[Guest]

Hi all,

I've been away from the forum a bit but my GS750 has been running just as sweet as ever. Still here, just busy. I recently started a new job that requires me to be away from home for around a month, sometimes up to 2 months at a time. After getting back from my first trip, my bikes fired right up as they should but quickly began leaking gas from the feed tubes between the carbs. Both my GS750 and my XJ650 Turbo did the same thing. Before I left I filled up the tanks and drained the float bowls of fuel hoping it wouldn't evaporate out and leave some varnish behind. Anyway, after running both bikes for a few minutes and letting them sit over the afternoon it seems the O-rings swelled up and stopped leaking.

Any good idea for how to avoid this in the future? I'm in Florida so never really put my bikes away for the winter but I imagine it's the same sort of idea. Thoughts?

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Don't know if it's the "right" thing to do but I've had good results either with Sta-bill or Star Tron Enzyme fuel treatment. I've tried both, they both did the job. Maybe someone knows if/why one might be a better choice. Mixed a bit more than the recommended dosage in the tank, ran it a bit so I knew there would be treated gas in the bowls. Bike started right up each spring. No dripping fuel. Done this for the last 5 years since I had the carbs rebuilt. Full disclosure, I haven't so much as taken a bowl cap off to inspect for varnish. Suppose I will at some point.

 

[Guest]

Don't know if it's the "right" thing to do but I've had good results either with Sta-bill or Star Tron Enzyme fuel treatment. I've tried both, they both did the job. Maybe someone knows if/why one might be a better choice. Mixed a bit more than the recommended dosage in the tank, ran it a bit so I knew there would be treated gas in the bowls. Bike started right up each spring. No dripping fuel. Done this for the last 5 years since I had the carbs rebuilt. Full disclosure, I haven't so much as taken a bowl cap off to inspect for varnish. Suppose I will at some point.

Did you drain the bowls or just park it after you mixed in the Sta-bill? This is what I was planning to do next time, just figured I'd see if there where any better ideas

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I did not drain the bowls

 

[Steve]

I do pretty much the same thing. :encouragement:

I use Sta-bil, the regular red stuff. I hear the marine forumula is better, but have not seen it here. I will at least double, if not triple, the dose, and I like to add that to a partial tank. For example, if I am going to use four ounces to treat my 5+ gallon tank, I will add the four ounces when the tank is just above the level where I switch to REServe. This REALLY increases the dose as I ride it to the gas station to fill the tank. Once the tank is full, I ride "around the block". Depending on the weather, the "block" might be 2, 5, 10 or 20 miles. If I know that will be the last ride of the season, I will change the oil and filter, then park the bike.

I do the same thing to "summer-ize" the snowblower, except for the ride around the block. Double to triple dose a partial tank, then fill the tank and run it for about 5 minutes at varying speeds.

Haven't had it fail yet. :encouragement:

.

 

[tom203]

Just keep treating your fuel with stabil as you add gas and you should have no issues with bike sitting idle for months. Use the marine stabil (the blue stuff): 8 oz bottle (maybe $8) treats 80 gallons of gas. My bike sits idle for 5 months and always wakes up happy . Like Steve, I run it in before its winter nap.

 

[Guest]

Sounds like I did more harm than good by draining the bowls. I'll just stick with the Stabil next time

 

[Suzuki Mad]

A lot of classic bikes get put away in the winter each year in the UK. I normally leave them and they fired up fine. BUT......

...the last few years there has been an issue doing that. I have had expensive work carried out on bikes that ended up with a full strip, ultrasonic cleaning of the carbs to get them running. So this last year I turned the fuel taps off or pulled the fuel lines on vacuum taps, ran the bikes dry then drained the float bowls. Then when I wanted to start to ride this spring all I did was turn the fuel taps back on or re attach the fuel lines and spin the bike over. The other trick is I'm using 99 octane fuel than the normal 95 stuff.

If thats too drastic then another option is what I do with my outboards. I run then down to low or empty at the end of the season. Then fill them up with a fuel called ASPEN 4.
Aspen Fuel 5 ltr 4 Stroke (Collection Only) For Sale

(I'm not sure if its available in the US or other countries.)

Once its filled I start the engine and make sure that its running on this fuel. I can leave it all winter and the outboard will start first pull. I'm going to try that on the vacuum tapped bikes this winter to see if it works. It also works on my lawn mower and I dont have to keep shelling out ?50 for a new carbs every 2 years.

But that's just one option.