R/R test

[suzukizone]

So relating to my post on stator output, see there is an output prob with stator. Will be pulling R/R to try & ID what I have.

Is there a guide to test R/R??? I may have missed it on BikeCliffs page but didn't notice it. Is it actually possible to do a test of any sort on the R/R?

If I do happen to have the correct SH775 unit & it tests good, I don't want to buy it as the stator is $$$$ enough for my Soc Sec income.

Thanks,

DH

 

[posplayr]

There is a R/R test guide in the stator pages but it only applies to the old style 5 wire shunt.

If you want to figure out if you have an SH-775 look at the marking on the side and compare to this one. There is no tests for SH-775 other than an integrated tests like the Quick Test.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/437-2011-Po...ash=item235f7ccf16:g:v9gAAOSw3xJVe1L1&vxp=mtr

 

[suzukizone]

There is a R/R test guide in the stator pages but it only applies to the old style 5 wire shunt.

If you want to figure out if you have an SH-775 look at the marking on the side and compare to this one. There is no tests for SH-775 other than an integrated tests like the Quick Test.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/437-2011-Po...ash=item235f7ccf16:g:v9gAAOSw3xJVe1L1&vxp=mtr

Before I pull it off any further than I have to, my R/R has this imprint;

The two arrowhead icons with tips touching vertical line, like on the link you sent me for the SH775BA. The verbage is; FH014AA, then underneath, 9.0 261 F.

Is that any indication of what I have? I know it isn't the SH775, but might it define if it's a shunt or un-shunt type.

Other ? if the R/R doesn't shunt excess current back to the stator where does it go? Just curiosity, would like to read some non-technical bit about this.

Thanks,

DH

 

[posplayr]

Before I pull it off any further than I have to, my R/R has this imprint;

The two arrowhead icons with tips touching vertical line, like on the link you sent me for the SH775BA. The verbage is; FH014AA, then underneath, 9.0 261 F.

Is that any indication of what I have? I know it isn't the SH775, but might it define if it's a shunt or un-shunt type.

Other ? if the R/R doesn't shunt excess current back to the stator where does it go? Just curiosity, would like to read some non-technical bit about this.

Thanks,

DH

That is a MOSFET SHUNT R/R. It is probably doing very well and it fired your stator to a crisp showing what a good job it can do.

The best analogy I have to describe the difference between SHUNT and SERIES R/R's is this.

Imagine the you have a 120V light in your house. This is equivalent to your motorcycle's electrical loads.
Imagine that the power being supplied to your house by the power company is the equivalent of the power coming from the stator mounted to your engine.

Imagine you need to dim those lights (adjust the power to the load), like a R/R needs to avoid overcharging the battery for example.

There are two approaches, SHUNT and SERIES.

With shunt you take two screw drivers and stick them into the wall outlet; as you short the screw drivers the lights dim. That is how the SHUNT R/R works. If it were not for a breaker you would burn the wiring in your house.

The SHUNT R/R works the same way, and it works OK because the alternator on your motro can not produce an infinite amount of power like your electrcial company can.

So then what is SERIES?

With series you go to your light switch and flip it on and off very fast till the lights dim the amount you would like. Current flow is less because on average it is only flowing a portion of the time.

The SH-775 and the other series R/R work this way. They simply open the circuit between stator and R/R. It has to be done in sync with the AC coming from your bike and you know that is varying with RPM. The turn ons and turn-offs happen when the current is zero and not at the peaks to avoid high stress events inside of the R/R and stator.

Traditionally all SHUNT R/R have used SCRs, it has only been in the last 5-7 years that someone had a brain far to build a SCR type SHUNT regulator with an even better short using a MOSFET. So this is like taking some very nice and shiney screw drivers that are gold plated so that they will not burn or arch when you short them making an ever better connection to carry even more shorting current when you dim your lights. The wiring doe not ligke this much nore does your stator.

I can it a brain fart because with only some minor changes in the internal logic, you could have made a SHUNT MOSFET R/R ad SERIES MOSFET R/R and have the best of all worlds. That is why you see teh Shindengen package for teh SERIES is exactly teh same as the SHUNT and teh price is really no different. Basically the same thing with different firmware in the controller to turn MOSFET SHUNT to MOSFET SERIES.


When you hears someone say that current is dumped to ground, they are further propagating an ill conceived notion that other people have been propagating for years.

 

[suzukizone]

Wow, I actually got the most of that.

1. WHAT is term SCR?
2. So this R/R I have really wasn't the best choice tho possibly at the time was being touted here at GSR by many inputters. I believe it was the Honda unit for a CBR1000RR of early 2000s vintage.
3. Well the Stator shows numbers that indicate failure based on the running portion of the Quick Test, so I just need to pick the organ to put on ebay that matches a replacement stator and with your great exposition tells me I need to get that particular SH775 unit or I'll just fry the replacement stator. Would that be correct by you?
4. In such case is there just one specific SH775? I see references to Capital letters appended. Could I stupidly get the Mark II version when I needed to get the MarkIII if you follow my drift?
5. Haven't seen much if any on ebay new or used but will putter around. Hopefully can get this settled before the snow falls, just a lot of expensive car & house repairs hit at once & wife going into the shop for some surgery.

Thanks for so much time & attention you have devoted to this long line of chat & ideas. Wish I knew enough to pay back the members who have helped me with this.

DH

 

[posplayr]

Wow, I actually got the most of that.

1. WHAT is term SCR?
2. So this R/R I have really wasn't the best choice tho possibly at the time was being touted here at GSR by many inputters. I believe it was the Honda unit for a CBR1000RR of early 2000s vintage.
3. Well the Stator shows numbers that indicate failure based on the running portion of the Quick Test, so I just need to pick the organ to put on ebay that matches a replacement stator and with your great exposition tells me I need to get that particular SH775 unit or I'll just fry the replacement stator. Would that be correct by you?
4. In such case is there just one specific SH775? I see references to Capital letters appended. Could I stupidly get the Mark II version when I needed to get the MarkIII if you follow my drift?
5. Haven't seen much if any on ebay new or used but will putter around. Hopefully can get this settled before the snow falls, just a lot of expensive car & house repairs hit at once & wife going into the shop for some surgery.

Thanks for so much time & attention you have devoted to this long line of chat & ideas. Wish I knew enough to pay back the members who have helped me with this.

DH

1.)
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/semiconductors/chpt-7/silicon-controlled-rectifier-scr/
2.) The MOSFETS were popular for a while. I started burning a new statro in the first 250 miles with a MOSFET and started looking for something else which in fact already existed just not well known.
3.) I don't know exactly what distinguishes the various SH775 numbers; possibly connectors style.
5.) http://www.thegsresources.com/supportus.php

 

[tom203]

To be safe, get one from a Polaris dealer- their part number 4012941- then you know that you got a genuine SH-775 and not some lookalike.

 

[suzukizone]

To be safe, get one from a Polaris dealer- their part number 4012941- then you know that you got a genuine SH-775 and not some lookalike.

And that's what I just ordered. BRand new from Polaris dealer, imprint SH775BA in the picture. $90/free shipping. Am rigging up a hamster wheel with refrigerator magnets and paper clips for windings. Hope that works. Actually wondering if the Caltric stator has output similar to the old Electrex or more like the stock Suzuki one.

Thanks to all who are helping me with this., the fun continues.

DH

 

[JTGS850GL]

All the series stators I've bought had the SH775 BA suffix. Have heard that there are some internal differences with others. Purchased several used ones on eBay with not one issue so far. They're pretty tough and not prone to failure.

 

[suzukizone]

Just wanted to thank all of you who have helped me with this thread and the others I posted regarding Roadkill's charging syste,. I have ordered a new Polaris SH775BA & about to order a Caltric stator. Since you got me to this point, anyone want to buy any of my organs or other body parts to fund this process? Just spent a load on my car, upgrading of the propane system in the house, dental work, need new stove, and wife spent about 3 millino bucks on trees, plants, flowers etc. Now living on cardboard and dehydrated water for awhile.

THANKS!!!!
DH